Is the Toro Z master G3 a good model?

yawg

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Hi all, I saw a Toro Z master G3 for sale in neighborhood. 72inch deck, 1400hrs, sign lists for $3900. Looks in decent shape. Kawazaki engine, air cooled, not sure which one and how much HP.
This would be for my farm, I'm mostly looking for cutting speed, doesn't need to look manicured.

What is the consensus on those, decent machines?
What are they comparable to? Maybe deere Z930, Scag Cheetah?
Is $3900 a fair price?
 

bertsmobile1

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Z-Master says it all
This was Toros entry level commercial mower
Got 2 in my run
On both I have bypassed the hour meter which also doubles as the Engine management & interlock module as they have both failed & replacements are $$$$$
The wiring on both has rotted away at the terminals which you will not be able to see unless you remove the dash panel.
I had to modify all 3 spindle housings on both as there is no positive location for the bottom bearing by making up a spacer for the outer race
And as they use open bearings you will need to replace both grease seals when you do the bearings.
Apart from that they are doing well, both would have at least 4000 hours on them by now .
If you buy it then make cure you do an oil & filter change on the hydros.
The one I have serviced from new was fine but the one that had been dealer serviced looks like was still running the original oil & filters as it was about the consistancy of 00 grade grease
One needed to have both brakes replaced as the housings failed but I rather think that is because it gets chained down hard in the trailer

Apart from that they both get used 6 days a week and do enough hours for 2 services a year and have been as reliable as any other mower.

People seem to think that commercial mowers being used residentially will run for ever without being touched but in reality the opposite is true.
Commercial mowers ge service like clockwork of they will be as bad ad residential mowers
Most need a lot more maintenance than residentials so be prepared to do proper servicing.
The owners manual is quite good & Toro hove both the parts manual and the service manual as a free download on their web page.
It should eat 6 acres for breakfast .
Down here the Z masters come with FX kawakasi engines or 7000 series kohlers and both are fitted with Donaldson canister air filters
 

yawg

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Z-Master says it all
This was Toros entry level commercial mower
Got 2 in my run
On both I have bypassed the hour meter which also doubles as the Engine management & interlock module as they have both failed & replacements are $$$$$
The wiring on both has rotted away at the terminals which you will not be able to see unless you remove the dash panel.
I had to modify all 3 spindle housings on both as there is no positive location for the bottom bearing by making up a spacer for the outer race
And as they use open bearings you will need to replace both grease seals when you do the bearings.
Apart from that they are doing well, both would have at least 4000 hours on them by now .
If you buy it then make cure you do an oil & filter change on the hydros.
The one I have serviced from new was fine but the one that had been dealer serviced looks like was still running the original oil & filters as it was about the consistancy of 00 grade grease
One needed to have both brakes replaced as the housings failed but I rather think that is because it gets chained down hard in the trailer

Apart from that they both get used 6 days a week and do enough hours for 2 services a year and have been as reliable as any other mower.

People seem to think that commercial mowers being used residentially will run for ever without being touched but in reality the opposite is true.
Commercial mowers ge service like clockwork of they will be as bad ad residential mowers
Most need a lot more maintenance than residentials so be prepared to do proper servicing.
The owners manual is quite good & Toro hove both the parts manual and the service manual as a free download on their web page.
It should eat 6 acres for breakfast .
Down here the Z masters come with FX kawakasi engines or 7000 series kohlers and both are fitted with Donaldson canister air filters
This is very helpful, thanks for sharing. It makes me think this mower is somewhere between the Z700 and Z900 series from deere, is that right?

Any idea if I can negotiate the price down from $3900, or is it already priced quite fairly?
 

bertsmobile1

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You are in the USA & I am in Australia so I have no idea about used mower prices over there .
 

yawg

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You are in the USA & I am in Australia so I have no idea about used mower prices over there .
Thanks so much for your previous help. I now believe the G3 is quite well priced (seller told me $3500 delivered)

I looked at the ZMaster G3 in person and saw a few things that might or might not be of concern. Would you be able to comment on those?
edit: it has the FX921V Kawasaki 31hp

- intermittent whine coming from somwhere in front of the engine (in between the hydros and engine I think). Could only it hear at lowish rpm.
- both hydros were covered in a layer of fine grass stuck to oil, from top to bottom. Did your hydros look the same?
- front cylinder had 107psi compression, back cylinder 120psi. Dried oil on the valve cover of front cylinder. Engine idled at quite low rpm when cold, then higher idlewhen warm. Occasional missfire (every 15-30 sec or so?) at low rpm when warm. I opened the oil fill cap at idle and it may had a slight bit of blow by but not excessive. Maybe a valve not well adjusted, or a slightly worn cam?
- White smoke and gas in exhaust for the first 5-10 min but that might have been because it was not run much since winter. Cleared up afterwards. The mower did not seem to lack power but with 31hp I am not sure my non-knowledgeable self would notice.

Any of those seem like a concern to you? Appreciate your advice.
 
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bertsmobile1

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Whine is most likely the transmission idler pulley.
The whine you need to worry about comes from the hydros when they are under load
PIA to replace but not difficult if you can get the mower high enough.
Cylinder compressions are a waste of time as they will be affected by valve lash, cam wear & ACR if one is present.
Crankcase will always blow while engine is running
You need to open it a minute after the engine stops
Grey/white smoke is a sign of a blown head gasket
White smoke in exhaust at start up can be water in the fuel or a leaking valve stem seal on the inlet allowing oil to enter the engine when it is not running
It can also be a blown head gasket ( Easy fix )
 

yawg

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Whine is most likely the transmission idler pulley.
The whine you need to worry about comes from the hydros when they are under load
PIA to replace but not difficult if you can get the mower high enough.
Cylinder compressions are a waste of time as they will be affected by valve lash, cam wear & ACR if one is present.
Crankcase will always blow while engine is running
You need to open it a minute after the engine stops
Grey/white smoke is a sign of a blown head gasket
White smoke in exhaust at start up can be water in the fuel or a leaking valve stem seal on the inlet allowing oil to enter the engine when it is not running
It can also be a blown head gasket ( Easy fix )
You seem very knowledgeable, thanks for taking the time to reply and share.
I am pulling the trigger on the G3! I believe the head gasket is fine (smoke stopped) and the cylinders are good (not excessive blow by). Seems anything that comes up would not be hard to fix. Those machines are fairly simple after all.
 
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yawg

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Whine is most likely the transmission idler pulley.
The whine you need to worry about comes from the hydros when they are under load
PIA to replace but not difficult if you can get the mower high enough.
Cylinder compressions are a waste of time as they will be affected by valve lash, cam wear & ACR if one is present.
Crankcase will always blow while engine is running
You need to open it a minute after the engine stops
Grey/white smoke is a sign of a blown head gasket
White smoke in exhaust at start up can be water in the fuel or a leaking valve stem seal on the inlet allowing oil to enter the engine when it is not running
It can also be a blown head gasket ( Easy fix )
I have the G3 in my garage, fixing it up.
I shot a couple videos of the whine sound. It believe now that its coming from the engine. Would you have any idea what might be the issue?

EDIT: the idler pulley has a bunch of play, likely the culprit. Your guess on the idler pulley was pretty good. I'll have to find the size and swap it, looks like an easy fix.



 
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bertsmobile1

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Take the hydro belt off , whine goes away = bad idler
No joy then pull the PTO clutch off , whine goes away = bad bearing in the clutch .
 

yawg

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Take the hydro belt off , whine goes away = bad idler
No joy then pull the PTO clutch off , whine goes away = bad bearing in the clutch .
No joy on the idler, its the clutch bearing(s). Had to take off the PTO belt so I could hear the difference over the roaring of the blades.
Now off to find bearing part numbers, the parts manual only lists the clutch as a kit. Might have to pull it off and pull the bearings out to see what is written on them.
I ordered some Amsoil 20W50 synthetic Hydro fluid and filters. Do you happen to know how to do a hydro fluid system flush on those machines? I don't want to just change whatever is in the reservoir, but the full 1.5L on each side.
Thanks so much for your great help as always.

EDIT: I can't find my model number and information on my mower, I looked under the seat, around the arms and elsewhere as shown on Toro website, any idea where the sticker should be?
 
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