Intek hard cold starting.

[slomo]

I have done everything , if possible, on this list.

Even pulled the head and de-carbonized the cylinder and head? Checked/adjusted the valves? Cleaned the cooling fins?

Vacuum leak check?

You said you cleaned the carb and changed all gaskets. Perfect time to check for vacuum leaks. You've been in there fiddling with it.

Verify your primer is squirting fuel into the carb. Remove air filter cover and filter. Look into carb throat. Push primer bulb. Watch for fuel squirting up vertically from lower center area of carb (emulsion tube).

I've had some good engines that take 4-6 pulls like yours. Told myself don't be lazy and pull the rope. Not that big of a deal. We all need as much exercise as we can get.

 

[mechanic mark]

Remember fresh gas, good spark, good compression, & fresh air at air filter are needed to start engine. I know Manual says valve adjustment is .004 to .008 & you set both at .005, why not set both in middle at .006. I always use high test gas & Star Tron fuel treatment or B&S fuel treatment. Also try a different multi-grade oil instead of straight weight. 10w-30 or 5w-30 I use Full Synthetic 5w-30 in my B&S 20 h.p. Vanguard & change filter every time, either Valvoline or Pennzoil because they've been around more than a century. Walmart is where I purchase oil, has best prices.
Auto parts stores loan tools out with a deposit which you receive back when you return tool, so no cost to you.

 

[nbpt100]

Thanks for all of the ideas.

The smoke I see on a cold start is whitish grey smoke so I believe it is oil. Which leads me to suspect leaking valve oil seals. One or maybe both. It may be a compression issue but I can not test compression as I do not have a leak down tester. It does seem to have plenty of power once started. I do not believe there is a vac leak. Primer bulb is new and working as it should. I can prime it 3 times as recommended or 6 x and it seems to behave the same way. I am leaning towrard a compression issue. I need to pull the head inspect everything. Cylinder wall, valve guides, seats and seals. If the cylinder wall is scored it is likely junk. I am not going to hone it and put in an over sized pistion. I can get a decent used engine for that total burden. I dont mind changing valve guides and or seals along with a new head gasket. This was a newly acquired machine and it may have been run with low oil.

 

[lefty2cox]

Could this be a partially sheared flywheel key?

 

[Richard Milhous]

Remember fresh gas, good spark, good compression, & fresh air at air filter are needed to start engine. I know Manual says valve adjustment is .004 to .008 & you set both at .005, why not set both in middle at .006. I always use high test gas & Star Tron fuel treatment or B&S fuel treatment. Also try a different multi-grade oil instead of straight weight. 10w-30 or 5w-30 I use Full Synthetic 5w-30 in my B&S 20 h.p. Vanguard & change filter every time, either Valvoline or Pennzoil because they've been around more than a century. Walmart is where I purchase oil, has best prices.
Auto parts stores loan tools out with a deposit which you receive back when you return tool, so no cost to you.

Pennzoil? I wouldn't put that crap in my ex-wife's car!

Or, come to think of it... I would.

 

[hlw49]

Could this be a partially sheared flywheel key?

Partially sheared flywheel key will kick back when you try to start it.

 

[hlw49]

Like Slomo said take air filter off and look into the throat of the carb as you push the primer, You should see gas spurt up the main nozzle into the throat of the carb. If not it is probably the air filter base warped since the primer system goes through it. Part no. 692673. Seen this many times.

 

[hlw49]

Thanks for all of the ideas.

The smoke I see on a cold start is whitish grey smoke so I believe it is oil. Which leads me to suspect leaking valve oil seals. One or maybe both. It may be a compression issue but I can not test compression as I do not have a leak down tester. It does seem to have plenty of power once started. I do not believe there is a vac leak. Primer bulb is new and working as it should. I can prime it 3 times as recommended or 6 x and it seems to behave the same way. I am leaning towrard a compression issue. I need to pull the head inspect everything. Cylinder wall, valve guides, seats and seals. If the cylinder wall is scored it is likely junk. I am not going to hone it and put in an over sized pistion. I can get a decent used engine for that total burden. I dont mind changing valve guides and or seals along with a new head gasket. This was a newly acquired machine and it may have been run with low oil.

wow you can't check the compression on a push mower engine and get a true reading since it has a compression release. The best way to check it is to pull the plug wire off and ground it to the block some way. Activate the operator presence handle which releases the fly wheel brake. Turn the blade backward until you feel compression then turn it about half turn back. Then snap it backward against rotation, if it bounces back hard it has good compression. Be sure and keep your hands out of the way.

 

[hlw49]

My philosophy KISS If I am talking to my wife it is keep it simple sweetie. You are thinking too difficult.