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Would you guys please share any experiences you have had with the Briggs Intek engines?
I just bought a rider with a 20 hp Intek on it, and I have done some research and seen some bad things on the Internet. I just want to see if you guys have had any problems with them.
Thanks

The Intek engine is not one of the best engine Briggs built, but I would say that the vast majority of the problems which I have seen are related to customers not following good maintanece practices. It may not be the most forgiving engine.

jakesmurray said:

Would you guys please share any experiences you have had with the Briggs Intek engines?
I just bought a rider with a 20 hp Intek on it, and I have done some research and seen some bad things on the Internet. I just want to see if you guys have had any problems with them.
Thanks

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I had an Intek a long time ago on a Husqvarna and it didn't seem to be a bad engine it just didn't do what I thought it should, but I'm not a Briggs fan.

Rivets said:

The Intek engine is not one of the best engine Briggs built, but I would say that the vast majority of the problems which I have seen are related to customers not following good maintanece practices. It may not be the most forgiving engine.

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I agree with Rivets on the Intek engines. The biggest problem with the single cylinder intek is the valve adjustment, compression release problem with the camshafts. The biggest issue I see with the engines is improper maintenance, like not changing oil, mouse nest causing overheating, stale fuel issues. With the Intek twins, I see odd compression, running issues. I also saw the same issues with the older opposed twins engines also.

I think the biggest issues that will get even worse will be the sensitivity to fuel quality. I have seen on more than one occasion where gas will run fine in one piece of equipment, won't even allow starting of the newer engines.

J murray. My experience with the twin Intek 24 is well documented in this forum. Heat and head problems. Babied from brand new. Now tamed with an oil cooler.

I appreciate the input guys. Mine is a V Twin and the code says its a 2001. If I was to put an hour number on it, I would say between 125-150 based on the condition of the mower and how the guy said he used it.
I always tune my equipment each spring, so hopefully it will continue to give me trouble free service.
Right now it runs very well.

jakesmurray said:

I appreciate the input guys. Mine is a V Twin and the code says its a 2001. If I was to put an hour number on it, I would say between 125-150 based on the condition of the mower and how the guy said he used it.
I always tune my equipment each spring, so hopefully it will continue to give me trouble free service.
Right now it runs very well.

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Jakes, That's about the hours mine had when it overheated and pushed a valve guide. IMO you may not have a problem if you do not use the tractor hard. Mine failed @ 85F with 3 bagger full of damp grass mowing on a slope. Hard work for this unit I think although the engine has never bogged or refused it gets very hot. Adjust your valves carefully and listen for "morning sickness"- missing , backfires, run-on. If you use it hard in summer I would take its temp. At the head.:2cents:

All of them no matter the brand seem to run just fine until they do not. Just get on it after checking fluid levels and go. Worry over your engine will not make it free from failure.

motoman said:

Jakes, That's about the hours mine had when it overheated and pushed a valve guide. IMO you may not have a problem if you do not use the tractor hard. Mine failed @ 85F with 3 bagger full of damp grass mowing on a slope. Hard work for this unit I think although the engine has never bogged or refused it gets very hot. Adjust your valves carefully and listen for "morning sickness"- missing , backfires, run-on. If you use it hard in summer I would take its temp. At the head.:2cents:

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Great, that's comforting...:ashamed:
But I appreciate the info and honesty. :smile:

possum said:

All of them no matter the brand seem to run just fine until they do not. Just get on it after checking fluid levels and go. Worry over your engine will not make it free from failure.

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That's kinda how I'm gonna look at it. I will take care of it and hopefully it takes care of me...:thumbsup:

Hi troops,
I have a 2008 Scag Tiger Cub with a 26 HP Briggs ELS twin. Last summer it started "sneezing" periodically. I found the L/H cylinder to have much lower compression than the R/H cylinder. Further testing with a leakdown tester showed leaking by the rings. Subsequent leakdown testing indicates and increase in the leakage rate.
I removed the heads but found no scoring on the cylinder walls. This engine has 500 hours on it and I operate this machine in dusty conditions with a collection system most of the time. Sometimes I have to replace the air filter after 15 hours and do oil changes more often than scheduled.
I plan to repower this machine with a new Briggs 30 HP Pro engine that has the cyclonic air filtration system. I would prefer a Kawasaki FX730, but the cost of the Kawasaki repower is more than twice than the Briggs. I love the Kawi FX 730 on my new Hustler X-ONE and would love to have the same power on my Scag, but the dollars just don't work out for me. The Hustler is a rear discharge machine which is used almost exclusively for cemetery mowing.
Later
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing:

HI all

I do have a Briggs 20 hp ELS to with about 300 hrs on it now. It in pretty dust conditions and hope the engines work out for a while , i do the oil changes sooner then needed. And change air filters regularly to.:licking::licking:

motoman said:

Jakes, That's about the hours mine had when it overheated and pushed a valve guide. IMO you may not have a problem if you do not use the tractor hard. Mine failed @ 85F with 3 bagger full of damp grass mowing on a slope. Hard work for this unit I think although the engine has never bogged or refused it gets very hot. Adjust your valves carefully and listen for "morning sickness"- missing , backfires, run-on. If you use it hard in summer I would take its temp. At the head.:2cents:

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Since he os saying it is over heating u.may wanna use a bit thicker oil so it will not take that chance but if I. Winter use do not use thick oil at all :thumbsup:

Although I'm a newbie in here I've about had my fill with Briggs & Stratton engines. The 2 here are both 17hp singles that a year after the starter is replaced they refuse to turn over. I was looking at an Ariens with the 20hp Intek twin but now I see it is another Briggs I wont even think of buying it. Maybe I should have had my screen name as FedupinSoCal.

It depends on what you do with mower. If you use it for commercial lawn mowing business, it may not last for more than a season. If you use it once a week for 1-2 hours and take good care of it (check oil level, change oil, etc.) , it will be fine for many years. I have an 18.5hp Intek on my riding mower for more than 10 years and still running good.

Welcome to LMF. It's funny that you brought this thread up, as I was just thinking about my Intek the other day. I've had this mower for over 3 years now, and I haven't had a bit of trouble with it. I meticulously maintain it, replacing the oil, spark plugs, fuel and air filters every year. I am a firm believer that maintenance is everything. A well maintained engine shouldn't let you down. I said shouldn't because we all know there are always exceptions...

I love when people hate things like this. I get to buy they for little to nothing put maybe $30 worth of parts and no more than 2 hours labor and have a flipable mower to make money on. Last winter I purchased 6 riders none over $50.00. Total spent $75.00 in parts and 6 hours of labor. All the mowers are gone and not a one for under $350.00. $375 invested and $2100 in sales.

Funny this is here today.
Got a Intek today $20
Would not start. Ha ha dumb *** had two year old gas. I almost felt bad for stealing it from him. I know I can get $500 for the whole mower.

Serial of the fittest I guess.

I don't know. I've been in this place for about 7 years now. I bought a riding mower (used) the first year. It ran ok. On the next year it needed belts & spindles. Ok, not life threatening so I fixed it. The third year the starter wouldn't turn the engine over, even with a jump from one of the cars, so a new starter was replaced & it worked fine.....for that year. Next year, even after new fuel & an oil change it exhibited the same starter problems. A brand new mower was available at Home Depot so I went for it. Now, of course after the warranty has expired, it is doing the same starter problem as the first one. Being they are both Briggs & Stratton engines & the same cylinder setup I have my reservations about their products. I have just over an acre & a quarter to mow, & only have to do it maybe 4 times a year if that due to the drought & nothing really grows & the sprinklers have been turned off for about 4 years now. But the weeds are getting high now & I don't need a ticket from the fire department. New gas, Sta-bil, carb cleaner doesn't do anything. I'm open to suggestions.

StudeRanch said:

I don't know. I've been in this place for about 7 years now. I bought a riding mower (used) the first year. It ran ok. On the next year it needed belts & spindles. Ok, not life threatening so I fixed it. The third year the starter wouldn't turn the engine over, even with a jump from one of the cars, so a new starter was replaced & it worked fine.....for that year. Next year, even after new fuel & an oil change it exhibited the same starter problems. A brand new mower was available at Home Depot so I went for it. Now, of course after the warranty has expired, it is doing the same starter problem as the first one. Being they are both Briggs & Stratton engines & the same cylinder setup I have my reservations about their products. I have just over an acre & a quarter to mow, & only have to do it maybe 4 times a year if that due to the drought & nothing really grows & the sprinklers have been turned off for about 4 years now. But the weeds are getting high now & I don't need a ticket from the fire department. New gas, Sta-bil, carb cleaner doesn't do anything. I'm open to suggestions.

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If you checked the service schedule you will see that at 50 hours thence every 200 hours there after you should check the valve lash.
As the cam, rockers, pushrods wear the gap between the valve & the rockers open up to the point where the inlet valve no longer opens just before TDC at cranking speeds to allow some decompression.
Without the decompression the small starter motor does not really have the balls to turn the engine over.
So you get a new battery and for a few mows it works because a very new battery wil put out 13 V and that little bit extra is just enough to overcome compression.
Then it stops again so you go out & buy a new starter and being new it has a touch more grunt, and again manages to overcome the excessive compression for a while.
Then it stops again so you hook the jumpers onto your truck with the engine running putting out 14 V again allows you to start this useless piece of junk. All the wile the gap is getting bigger and starting is getting harder.
Then you get the tom tits and sell it to Renylson, for $ 50 vowing never to use one of these junk B&S engines again.
He adjusts the valve lash and replaces the rocker gasket then sells it next week for $ 500 hoping to find you brother with his shi* box Briggs and see if he will take $ 50 for it as well.

Now if you are really good you will try 24Volting the starter to get this cr*p pile to go and the 24V will dothe job as the starter wizzes over the excessive compression, taking the head gasket with it.

Your deciples come into my shop at least 10 times a year.
Most having forked out around $ 500 in parts because they did not bother to read the Owners handbook and were too pig arrogant to pay a professional who knows what they are doing to service their mower.
After all it is a lawn mower, not the space shuttle, any fool can service it themselves, and most do.

But don't believe me I am one of the conspitors trying to dip my tallons into your pockets .
In the top left corner in a search box.
Type valve lash in there and see just how many owners managed to fix their unfixable mower in 15 minutes by adjsting the valve lash.

And....when my newer Intek ate its exh cam lobe and a pushrod for desert I made some measurements. The lifter dimple or recess which accepts the pushrod tip is about .080" deep. While that is acceptable if the valve lash is correct it is not so deep at 3000 rpm if sloppy valve lash is present. Add heat and the pushrod jumps out of position and waits for the bewildered owner to find it....that is, if it does not get curious and decide to go into into the sump for a look around. A bad decision.

One thing we have never commented on here. With so many dislodged pushrods it might be interesting to know how many are from the "top" (cyl #1) vs the bottom (cyl #2) on the Intek engine. Mine was the top. Perhaps there is a heat differential ...I never measured heat in cyl #2.

I still say you pros need to go on some kind of retreat and write a little handbook to come out in paperback. Of course you will have to solve which continent and just continue to get alone. :laughing:

motoman said:

And....when my newer Intek ate its exh cam lobe and a pushrod for desert I made some measurements. The lifter dimple or recess which accepts the pushrod tip is about .080" deep. While that is acceptable if the valve lash is correct it is not so deep at 3000 rpm if sloppy valve lash is present. Add heat and the pushrod jumps out of position and waits for the bewildered owner to find it....that is, if it does not get curious and decide to go into into the sump for a look around. A bad decision.

One thing we have never commented on here. With so many dislodged pushrods it might be interesting to know how many are from the "top" (cyl #1) vs the bottom (cyl #2) on the Intek engine. Mine was the top. Perhaps there is a heat differential ...I never measured heat in cyl #2.

I still say you pros need to go on some kind of retreat and write a little handbook to come out in paperback. Of course you will have to solve which continent and just continue to get alone. :laughing:

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You have been on here long enough to realize that 90% of the problems which appear here are because the owners did not read ( or understand ) the operators manual in the first place.
I made the mistake of writing a repair / restortion manual for motorcycle many years ago and will never do that again.

I'm not talking about something reluctant owners might read. But something wanabes and enthusiastic owners would search out. What happened with the restoration manual?

People are lazy by nature ( I include myself in this generalization ) so asking some one is easier than finding out.
Just note how many times the exact same problem appears on this forum so obviously very few actually search this forum, let alone the entire web.

There is no end of "How to fix your mower " books out there most are either brand specific or type specific and none sell well.
Because people are also cheap , so they want to know for free and again I am guilty as charged on this count as well.

JD and Honda both make repair manuals that a 10 years old can follow but no one ever wants to buy either of them.
I put this down to people being mathamatically stupid.
They scream that at $ 60 a JD manual is "too expensive" when in fact that is less than 1 hour of labour charge so it pays for itself the first time it gets used.

As for the motorcycle book.
I had to move eventually due to people
1) bringing bikes to my home expecting me to fix them
2) bring bikes to my home because they had not read the book and broken some part and expected me to repair it.
3) suddenly every problem with these bikes became my fault
4) endless phone calls wanting "free" help to do stuff a 10 year old could have done.
5) endless phone calls about parts supplies ( again my fault if a supplier closed down )
6) agro people demmanding I tell them my "secret source" of really cheap parts for obsolete bikes.
7) stalking and constant abuse from those mentioned above because they did not get what they were looking for.
8) people expecting me to be able to fix/ diagnose their bikes over the phone / intermet
9) people wanting me to do the same for models &/or brands not covered
10) abusive owners who found a problem not covered in the book
11) sales barely covered the printing & distribution costs
12) endless threats of law suits for breech of copywrite, from freelace lawers with no idea of what they were talking about.
13) every time I went out on my bike I copped an earfull from those who dissagreed which what I had published or decided I had ripped off their secret work arounds so wanted a "cut"

Adjusting the intake makes perfect sense. I'll try that on both of them tomorrow (newest one first of course!). Thank you for the advise!!

Something I need to say that has nothing to do with this thread. I do like the format in here! It's set up just like the Studebaker forum that I have belonged to for 8 years now. It's easy to navigate & very user friendly.

StudeRanch said:

Adjusting the intake makes perfect sense. I'll try that on both of them tomorrow (newest one first of course!). Thank you for the advise!!

Something I need to say that has nothing to do with this thread. I do like the format in here! It's set up just like the Studebaker forum that I have belonged to for 8 years now. It's easy to navigate & very user friendly.

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Let us know how it goes. Glad you like it here, it is a pretty cool place.

Yikes Bert, OK I understand better your reluctance to again go to print. Nevertheless I appreciate that you an itinerant teacher and (admit it please) you do enjoy solving problems. Peace. :thumbsup:

motoman said:

Yikes Bert, OK I understand better your reluctance to again go to print. Nevertheless I appreciate that you an itinerant teacher and (admit it please) you do enjoy solving problems. Peace. :thumbsup:

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Yes I learned long ago why so many people use screen names and publish under non-deplumes.

And yes again I was brought up propper, to put others in front of yourself.
I also have a debt to pay to this forum.
I would not have survived the first 2 years without the help I found on here.
Most of the mower distribution down here is done under exclusive franchise agreement "free trade- really" and the franchise holders only want to sell new mowers so there is zero technical support.