Intake Manifold

djg618

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I need to locate a source for a new intake manifold for a 6.5 HP B&S engine. I think the model No. is here:
IMG_9716.jpgIMG_0651.jpg

The manifold looks like this (disregard the JB Weld):



I need the part No. for the manifold and the gasket. It doesn't have the bump on it like this one:
I don't know if they are interchangeable?IMG_0652.jpg
 
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Scrubcadet10

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497645, superseded to 794305
So, you can search using one of the above numbers, but most likely you'll get sent 794305.

Thank you for providing the model and type numbers up front. (y)
the one you linked appears to be for there slightly smaller Classic series engine with the gas tank mounted on the carb.
 

djg618

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Thanks for replying so quick. This engine is the 'Replacement' engine for the splitter on the 'Original' one you've been helping me with. I did get the sump off and will take out the piston tomorrow. I'll get back to you.

But on this Replacement engine which I bought used, the carb was only mounted with one bolt. The vibrations loosen the carb and I'm sure stressed the manifold causing it to fail. I inspected it closer today and it looks like one mounting bolt broke off. It's the one below the manifold end on the right in the picture. The other carb mounting bolt i put back into its hole on the left. I'm not sure how to deal with that.

IMG_0649.jpg
 

Scrubcadet10

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I'd get an Easy Out set from your auto parts store... they "might" rent them out. you pay them $x and get your money back when you bring the tool back.
 

djg618

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Oh Sh!t! I've been working on the replacement log splitter engine. The pull cord housing was rattling on the cover shroud so I drilled out the old rivets and put in new ones. I replaced the pull cord and ordered an intake manifold. The last was the broken bolt holding the carb on. The Easy Out set that I ordered came today so I thought I'd tackle that. I tried to use the Easy Out, but it was a POS. the threads rounded over and became useless. They were suppose to be heat treated.

I switched to tapping a new 1/4" x 20 hole. I tried to match the depth of the other mounting bolt but when I drilled the pilot hole, it felt like it went in a little too deep. I drilled and tapped the hole and then I realized I may have drilled the pilot hole through the cylinder wall.

It's too hot in the garage now, so I check it out Monday morning by removing the cylinder head. If I did, can the hole be patched with something like JB Weld and sanded down or did I screw up the cylinder?
 

Richard Milhous

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JB Weld is my hero but it will not withstand the heat in a cylinder for ten seconds.
 

Scrubcadet10

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As long as a bolt is in the hole, i don't think you'll have to worry about it, and that IF there is a hole in the cylinder wall, the area is smooth with no burrs... 2 strokes have ports in the cylinder.
 

Richard Milhous

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As long as a bolt is in the hole, i don't think you'll have to worry about it, and that IF there is a hole in the cylinder wall, the area is smooth with no burrs... 2 strokes have ports in the cylinder.
So this will be an engine in which compression is dependent on a carburetor mounting bolt in the cylinder wall... I would SO do that, and brag on it. My wife is laughing, but she doesn't have to make shit run.

"Easy Out" is a damn lie. The only result I ever got from it was a broken "Easy Out" lodged in a stuck bolt.
 

Scrubcadet10

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No different than a spark plug....
Easy outs have worked great for me when i need them so i have no idea what you're doing wrong.
It ain't a dang space shuttle.
 

Richard Milhous

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OH, HOLY SHIT I JUST THUNK OF THIS... don't turn the engine over! If you really did bust through the cylinder wall, there are probably metal fragments in the cylinder. Blow it out with all the compressed air you can buy with money.

My last experience with Easy Out was in the Eighties. Sue me.
 
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