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I need to locate a source for a new intake manifold for a 6.5 HP B&S engine. I think the model No. is here:


The manifold looks like this (disregard the JB Weld):



I need the part No. for the manifold and the gasket. It doesn't have the bump on it like this one:
I don't know if they are interchangeable?

497645, superseded to 794305
So, you can search using one of the above numbers, but most likely you'll get sent 794305.

Thank you for providing the model and type numbers up front.
the one you linked appears to be for there slightly smaller Classic series engine with the gas tank mounted on the carb.

Thanks for replying so quick. This engine is the 'Replacement' engine for the splitter on the 'Original' one you've been helping me with. I did get the sump off and will take out the piston tomorrow. I'll get back to you.

But on this Replacement engine which I bought used, the carb was only mounted with one bolt. The vibrations loosen the carb and I'm sure stressed the manifold causing it to fail. I inspected it closer today and it looks like one mounting bolt broke off. It's the one below the manifold end on the right in the picture. The other carb mounting bolt i put back into its hole on the left. I'm not sure how to deal with that.

I'd get an Easy Out set from your auto parts store... they "might" rent them out. you pay them $x and get your money back when you bring the tool back.

Oh Sh!t! I've been working on the replacement log splitter engine. The pull cord housing was rattling on the cover shroud so I drilled out the old rivets and put in new ones. I replaced the pull cord and ordered an intake manifold. The last was the broken bolt holding the carb on. The Easy Out set that I ordered came today so I thought I'd tackle that. I tried to use the Easy Out, but it was a POS. the threads rounded over and became useless. They were suppose to be heat treated.

I switched to tapping a new 1/4" x 20 hole. I tried to match the depth of the other mounting bolt but when I drilled the pilot hole, it felt like it went in a little too deep. I drilled and tapped the hole and then I realized I may have drilled the pilot hole through the cylinder wall.

It's too hot in the garage now, so I check it out Monday morning by removing the cylinder head. If I did, can the hole be patched with something like JB Weld and sanded down or did I screw up the cylinder?

JB Weld is my hero but it will not withstand the heat in a cylinder for ten seconds.

As long as a bolt is in the hole, i don't think you'll have to worry about it, and that IF there is a hole in the cylinder wall, the area is smooth with no burrs... 2 strokes have ports in the cylinder.

Scrubcadet10 said:

As long as a bolt is in the hole, i don't think you'll have to worry about it, and that IF there is a hole in the cylinder wall, the area is smooth with no burrs... 2 strokes have ports in the cylinder.

Click to expand...

So this will be an engine in which compression is dependent on a carburetor mounting bolt in the cylinder wall... I would SO do that, and brag on it. My wife is laughing, but she doesn't have to make shit run.

"Easy Out" is a damn lie. The only result I ever got from it was a broken "Easy Out" lodged in a stuck bolt.

No different than a spark plug....
Easy outs have worked great for me when i need them so i have no idea what you're doing wrong.
It ain't a dang space shuttle.

OH, HOLY SHIT I JUST THUNK OF THIS... don't turn the engine over! If you really did bust through the cylinder wall, there are probably metal fragments in the cylinder. Blow it out with all the compressed air you can buy with money.

My last experience with Easy Out was in the Eighties. Sue me.

I'd sue you but the Texas Hammer isn't returning my calls.?

Well I did it! I took the head off the cylinder and found I did drill a small 1/16" pilot hole through to the cylinder. Yes I will clean up all the metal shavings first (Thanks). I'll clean the hole as well as the threaded hole with hexane and then acetone. Supposedly they make a JB Weld Extreme Heat that will work to patch the hole. May have to order it. I'll pack it into the hole on the cylinder side until it flares a little on the threaded side of the hole. Once cured, it should act as a plug even if it fails to adhere to the hole walls on the cylinder side. The flair should keep it from drifting into the cylinder.

Does anyone have any other ideas of products they like?

Thanks

I tried that JB Weld extreme heat stuff on an exhaust pipe and it burned right off.

and I thought this hole would be plugged with a bolt?

Richard Milhous said:

and I thought this hole would be plugged with a bolt?

Click to expand...

From the outside, yes. But I thought I should fill in the hole on the cylinder side.

djg618 said:

From the outside, yes. But I thought I should fill in the hole on the cylinder side.

Click to expand...

What for? That space will lower your compression by like 0.00001%.

Richard Milhous said:

What for? That space will lower your compression by like 0.00001%.

Click to expand...

I just thought I had to. I didn't know any better. Good to know. I'll clean up any burrs and put it back together. Thanks

Remember that when you put a bolt through there, it may push more metal particles into the combustion chamber. Also, if you can get to the rim of the hole with a rat tail file and chamfer it round, it will reduce stress and future carbon buildup. What I would worry about is, will combustion pressure pop the bolt out? I don't know what the pressure is at TDC, or how much a helicoil can hold, but that hole looks to be nearly at TDC. What's the diameter of the bolt?

I believe the bolts are 5/16 in diameter.

Aye, there's the rub. I don't know what the compression ratio or combustion chamber pressure is, but that hole is close to the top where it will see the max pressure. At a rough guess, it will be subject to about 1000 lbs expulsive force.

A 1/4" bolt would cut this by a third. A 3/16" bolt would cut it by 2/3. Is it feasible to use a smaller bolt? If not, I think you can still get lead wool. If it's worth the price to you, pack a little lead wool into the bottom of the hole from the outside. This will reduce the pressure exposure to the diameter of the breakthrough hole.

Have no idea if this is correct or not

Richard Milhous said:

Remember that when you put a bolt through there, it may push more metal particles into the combustion chamber. Also, if you can get to the rim of the hole with a rat tail file and chamfer it round, it will reduce stress and future carbon buildup. What I would worry about is, will combustion pressure pop the bolt out? I don't know what the pressure is at TDC, or how much a helicoil can hold, but that hole looks to be nearly at TDC. What's the diameter of the bolt?

Click to expand...

The bolt is 1/4" x 20. So it would be advisable to plug this hole??

And yes, I was going to completely clean/flush out the newly threaded hole with a syringe of hexane forced through the hole from the inside.

What is the depth of the entire bolt hole? 20 mm?

Richard Milhous said:

What is the depth of the entire bolt hole? 20 mm?

Click to expand...

Don't know. I'll measure the bolt and hole tomorrow.

The bolt is 1/2" long and the tapped hole (1/4") is approximately 5/8" deep using a depth micrometer. The overall thickness of the metal is approximately 1-1/4". I'm not even sure the pilot hole is 1/16".

Anyway, I deburred the hole and cleaned the inside of the cylinder and I got all the crud out of the threaded hole. I'm in the process of putting everything back together.

Good luck is all i can think to say, lol.