I have a 12 horsepower Briggs and what I believe to be a flat head I was wondering what the model of these engines generally are or how to find the specific model number, because Im trying to upgrade it with aluminum billet flywheel and billet connecting rods etc. Im new so I may not have the best terminology.
Inquiring on racing parts for 12 HP briggs
- Thread starter MowerJo19
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I have a 12 horsepower Briggs and what I believe to be a flat head I was wondering what the model of these engines generally are or how to find the specific model number, because Im trying to upgrade it with aluminum billet flywheel and billet connecting rods etc. Im new so I may not have the best terminology.Try these folks.
www.arcracing.com
ARC Racing Brands
www.arcracing.com
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If he just wanting more top end torque all he got to do is change the camshaft timing by one tooth. I just don't remember which i did it back in he 80's.
Otherwise if the OP got more money than he wants he could always send some my way.
Otherwise if the OP got more money than he wants he could always send some my way.
Mower King
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You moved the cam, 1 tooth on the crank gear......you actually did this?
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Yelp I did back then on my personal Ford rider but as I said don't remember if I advance or delayed the timing. I had other things at the time to worry more about in the 80's. I just know I had more torque cutting grass.
Maybe low end torque I’m not sure if I wanna do tractor pulls or not.
Mower King
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The reason I asked that is, 1 tooth either way, advanced or retarded, is too many degrees to run real good or better than O.E.M. setting.....now a few thousands, yes...but 1 tooth, nope!
The attached pic is how I do it!
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bertsmobile1
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For some cams there are vernier adjustable timing, usually about 1/4 degree per pin slot
For pulls you want a small carb and a long inlet tract
For revs you want a big carb, big short valve openings and a short manifold with a long air ram.
Then you need to extensively build up the heads so you have discreet paths for the inlet & exhaust, then grind out the combustion chamber so it is 100% over the piston.
move the spark plug so it is about 1/3 the diameter distance from the closed side of the cylinder to get most of the combustion happening over the piston.
Even then 7000 RPM is the best you can hope for which you can not do with a std piston , conrod or crank.
Serious Hp will require ball & rollers on the crankshaft & steel con rod
For pulls you want a small carb and a long inlet tract
For revs you want a big carb, big short valve openings and a short manifold with a long air ram.
Then you need to extensively build up the heads so you have discreet paths for the inlet & exhaust, then grind out the combustion chamber so it is 100% over the piston.
move the spark plug so it is about 1/3 the diameter distance from the closed side of the cylinder to get most of the combustion happening over the piston.
Even then 7000 RPM is the best you can hope for which you can not do with a std piston , conrod or crank.
Serious Hp will require ball & rollers on the crankshaft & steel con rod