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People,
MTD rider, bought a new spindle, and need to remove the pulley and put on the new one. I have an impact wrench with socket and wondering if anyone here ever had luck doing this as opposed to using an impact (air powered) wrench.

Thanks, people.

with old spindle still on the deck with the blade mounted block the blade and use a pull bar to loosen the nut. Note this nut need to be torqued to 90 ft/lbs on the new spindle as well the blade nut to the same torque spec.

I don't think hammer type impact driver will work; unless you can solidly block any spindle shaft movement.

i use something like this to zip off stubborn spindle nuts (for heavy duty) https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-24-...s-Impact-Wrench-1-Battery-Included/1000738134

Impact drivers won't take it off, (for deck screws or small fasteners) https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-...s-Impact-Driver-1-Battery-Included/1003016536
But as star said, the blade needs to be blocked so it can not spin.

I was thinking more in the line of the ones that you hold and smack with a hammer ie the manual version. Never really had any luck with the one I tried out years ago.

Many auto parts stores have loaner programs where for a refundable deposit you can can get an impact gun. Why buy one if you are going to only use it once a year.

Good to know, people. I will let you know how it all ends soon........

Got the new spindle, and the length of the shaft is longer than my original one. Yet, on the site from the supplier the # matches the MTD #. Should I complain to the seller? Could this still work? I fear the different length will elevate the pulley higher, and the belt will not work right, or even spin/fall off the track.

Old shaft is 5 7/8". new is 6 1/2".

rigoletto said:

Old shaft is 5 7/8". new is 6 1/2".

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Original parts or OEM equivalent is the way to go. It’s best to order parts based on your mower’s model number and serial number.

What's the number of the spindle and the model number of the mower.

Scrubcadet10 said:

What's the number of the spindle and the model number of the mower.

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618-0138. I am meticulous about records, and part #'s. That is also the # he advertised. Do we really need SN's? Never needed it in the past......

rigoletto said:

618-0138. I am meticulous about records, and part #'s. That is also the # he advertised. Do we really need SN's? Never needed it in the past......

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You really do need the model number and serial number of the mower. Parts are updated and/or other manufacturers may begin producing the part.

Yes sir, it's hard to tell you exactly what to do and what parts are proper without knowing what the part is going on.

Good to know. Never knew that, and never had such a problem with ordering parts for my very old mower. also, if you provide parts and have a website for such shouldnt the supplier insist on a SN and model #? How sloppy.

I still done understand. Even if parts are different doesnt that mean one has to swap our all mower parts, meaning, I have 2 spindles, so now I have to scrap the (still) good one, and install newer different profile parts to make them both match? Not to mention the main crankshaft pulley. This is to new to me, people.

Anyway, I appreciate your input and feedback for my problem.

When you order parts for your car, most times you have to provide the VIN. Why? Because, there could be an updated part? Same with your mower. I never order parts from Fleabay. Too many counterfeit parts there.

Working off of the part number that your provided 618-0138, I looked up the Rotary replacement spindle.It’s total length is 6”. Rotary item #9288.
Stens lists a similar spindle that is also 6” in total length.
Stens part #285-119
Here’s a genuine MTD part #918-0138C
Now are you starting to see what’s going on with ordering parts?

Just like every other assembly plant things happen
Things like the spindle supplier no longer making that part
or a redesign because Fred Fool just cut his hand off & sued for damages .
Most spindles come in a variety of lengths and finding the exact right one needs consultation to both the IPL & the dealer updates.
Now most of the better on line retailers subscribe to ARL for the IPL's that you see on screen
ARL are not particularly good about updating older diagrams to include updates & superceeded parts or part numbers
This is why people like myself always check the dimensions before we order and after that part arrives because you can also get the wrong part in the right package and this is particularly the case for belts .
So you should get back to the retailer & tell them that the part they supplied is not the same as the part it is replacing
Most retailers will happily exchange them , if there is no damage so they can sell it latter for full retail price .
However if you asked for part # 123456 & they supplied part # 123456 and it is the correct # 123456 then don't expect them to loose money by paying freight
On line parts shops are not required to provide a free parts finder service & they pay quite a lot to allow you to access the data base they subscribe to
But it is YOUR responsibility to make sure the IPL is correct for your mower
FWIW, this is a link to one of my wholesalers MTD Spindles
As you will see from the images there are a lot of subtle variations and if you hit the more button you will see all of the models that the particular spindle fits and there is a lot of overlap
The overlap is the models that could have either spindle

bertsmobile1 said:

Just like every other assembly plant things happen
Things like the spindle supplier no longer making that part
or a redesign because Fred Fool just cut his hand off & sued for damages .
Most spindles come in a variety of lengths and finding the exact right one needs consultation to both the IPL & the dealer updates.
Now most of the better on line retailers subscribe to ARD for the IPL's that you see on screen
ARL are not particularly good about updating older diagrams to include updates & superceeded parts or part numbers
This is why people like myself always check the dimensions before we order and after that part arrives because you can also get the wrong part in the right package and this is particularly the case for belts .
So you should get back to the retailer & tell them that the part they supplied is not the same as the part it is replacing
Most retailers will happily exchange them , if there is no damage so they can sell it latter for full retail price .
However if you asked for part # 123456 & they supplied part # 123456 and it is the correct # 123456 then don't expect them to loose money by paying freight
On line parts shops are not required to provide a free parts finder service & they pay quite a lot to allow you to access the data base they subscribe to
But it is YOUR responsibility to make sure the IPL is correct for your mower
FWIW, this is a link to one of my wholesalers MTD Spindles
As you will see from the images there are a lot of subtle variations and if you hit the more button you will see all of the models that the particular spindle fits

Click to expand...

Exactly!

Owners of equipment just don't to understand that we need model and serial numbers from the serial number tags. As said there is a lot variations over the years. If all equipment used the same parts we all would get pretty boring all the same looking equipment. It would like living on a planet where everything is copy of everything else.

MParr said:

Working off of the part number that your provided 618-0138, I looked up the Rotary replacement spindle.It’s total length is 6”. Rotary item #9288.

9288

9288

www.rotarycorp.com

Stens lists a similar spindle that is also 6” in total length.
Stens part #285-119

Search results for "618-0138"

www.stens.com

Here’s a genuine MTD part #918-0138C

Spindle Assembly - 5" Dia. Pulley - 918-0138C | MTD Parts

Buy the Spindle Assembly - 5" Dia. Pulley online and get your OEM parts quick! Orders over $45 qualify for Free Shipping.

www.mtdparts.com

Now are you starting to see what’s going on with ordering parts?

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Wow, I didnt know! So, clicking the 1st site, I now learned I can buy just a shaft as the rest of the spindle is good, just the shaft is chewed up. I will call them tomorrow when they open and inquire how to buy one. I also will keep this link (and the other 3) for future reference. And thanks for doing much research work for my part.

Thanks, Mpar!

Yes, they can be rebuilt.
The point myself and others are trying to make is that one part may not be exactly like the original part. For instance, the shaft length or overall length may be slightly different that the original part. Say that you have two or three blades and you replace one spindle that is not exactly the same length as the originals. The results can be a stepped cut of your yard.

Got the new shaft, and it fits nicely. Now, when I dry fit the new blade onto the bottom sprocket, then thread the old nut on it the nut bottoms out before masking a snug contact to the bottom of the blade. I dont ever remember there being a washer between nut and blade to take up the void space of about 1/16" or so. Maybe Im remembering wrong(?). Opinions?

Thanks.

Most good mowers use an 1/8” think bevel washer on their blade bolts.

MTD uses a 5/8-18 Flange Nut with has a built in recess. Torqued to 95 ft/lbs.

No need for an additional washer.

I said good mowers, not cheap mowers.

Rivets said:

I said good mowers, not cheap mowers.

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I supposed like the Gravely that I am working on this last week and the coming where they have Bellevue washers with the screw (bolt) being torqued anywhere from 115 to 125 lbf-ft (156 to 169 N•m).

Pre-stressed disc springs are used to maintain load or tension in bolted assemblies. Pressure begins at the outer radius and flattens gradually toward the bolt as deflection progresses. Disc springs exert a uniform pressure that remains constant despite tension losses caused by thermal expansion and contraction, compression set or wear of parts. Because pressures are predictable, disc springs provide a simple and effective means of determining bolt tension that is far more accurate than "torque" readings.

StarTech said:

MTD uses a 5/8-18 Flange Nut with has a built in recess. Torqued to 95 ft/lbs.
View attachment 61222View attachment 61223
No need for an additional washer.

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Wow, 95 lbs, never knew that. I always just tightened it up as best I could. I doubt it was 95 lbs. That is like the lug nut on my GM car!

rigoletto said:

Wow, 95 lbs, never knew that. I always just tightened it up as best I could. I doubt it was 95 lbs. That is like the lug nut on my GM car!

Click to expand...

MTD actually specs these as being torqued to 70-90 ft/lbs per their service manual but I always tighten them to 95 ft/lbs as I had them to come loose at 90 ft/lbs.

The big question is how many ugga duggas on the impact is 90 ft/lbs?

Hammermechanicman said:

The big question is how many ugga duggas on the impact is 90 ft/lbs?

Click to expand...

I have no idea as I stop at the first hint of my Aircat 1150K going into hammer mode which on these 5/8 Flange nuts is around 70+ ft/lbs. Much easier just to use the torque wrench afterwards to get to spec. PLus just had upgrade HFT 1/2 dr torque wrenches to Lexivon ones. I recently had two HFT to fail to click to correct torque. I brought two HFT replacements which had to return because the scales didn't even line up. Both the RH and LH Lexivon wrenches at right on the nose when they click when check with the digital torque adapter here. BTW Lexivon don't sell LH torque wrenches but I got one modifed one anyways. Having a two year warranty is a nice addition too as I usually break one or two per year.

Deflecting bar wrenches are usually accurate right out of the box and remain that way for almost all of their life
The clicker does wear over time and will click earlier but on most good ones it is replaceable .
Micrometer adjustment ones are almost never accurate and unless regularly checked go out of calibration very quickly because they rely on a thin spring .
If you want to have fun, go to your favourite junk shop, take 2 out of their boxes , connect them together set them to the same tension then see if they click together .

Got the new spindle shaft, it fit nicely. returned the defective ebay one. Tightened up the nut to 90 lbs with torque wrench. All went well. Big thanks to all here who helped me out with so many tips!