You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
I'm At A Loss!!!
#1
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
I have a Hustler Sport 48" ZTR with a 21 HP Briggs and Stratton engine. I noticed after mowing I had a bad oil leak coming from the oil pump to the carburetor. I inspected the line and saw no tears or holes so I thought it was the oil pump. I bought an OEM oil pump and installed it. The next time I mowed it was leaking again. I will say that when the mower is not engaged and just idling I don't see any leaks but after I engage the PTO oil starts to drip from the line that goes from the pump to the carb. I replaced the clamp on the pump with a hose clamp to make sure the old one wasn't too lose. Could the line have a pin hole or something? I did take it off and checked by putting an air hose in it and listening for any air. Any help would be appreciated.
#2
StarTech
StarTech
Better post the model and type of the Briggs engine as I don't know of a Briggs with an external oil pump.
#3
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
@StarTech I am going to assume that this is a single cylinder OHV with a fuel pump, and he has oil leaking from the fuel pump vent. But to the OP we need the model and type so we can determine what you actually have.
#4
StarTech
StarTech
That what I am thinking but want to be sure. Or it can even be the breather hose.
#5
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
Thank you and I will in the morning. I am working tonight.Better post the model and type of the Briggs engine as I don't know of a Briggs with an external oil pump.
#6
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
Sorry guys. Got bogged down with flooding. Anyway, the B&S model 929133 540cc 21.0 J1940 (?). I tried to send a couple of pictures but I don't know how to make them smaller so they could be sent.
#7
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
Recheck your model number the 929133 is not correct. All numbers should be stamped into the valve cover if OHV.Sorry guys. Got bogged down with flooding. Anyway, the B&S model 929133 540cc 21.0 J1940 (?). I tried to send a couple of pictures but I don't know how to make them smaller so they could be sent.
#8
StarTech
StarTech
Model posted is the Hustler model number. Appear to have a Briggs 331877-0117-G1
#10
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
The breather hose looks fine. I took it off and inspected it.That what I am thinking but want to be sure. Or it can even be the breather hose.
#11
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Check the oil level
It will most likely be high, thin and smell lie fuel because the carb is leaking .
It will most likely be high, thin and smell lie fuel because the carb is leaking .
#12
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
Thanks, but it's not coming from the carb. It's coming either out of the fuel pump or a crack in the line from the fuel pump to the carb.Check the oil level
It will most likely be high, thin and smell lie fuel because the carb is leaking .
#13
StarTech
StarTech
The easiest way to find the source is to use some UV dye in the fuel.
#14
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
Ok. I will try that.The easiest way to find the source is to use some UV dye in the fuel.
#15
S
slomo
"Looking" at most mower parts doesn't cut it for a true test.
S
slomo
Guy, can you see tiny holes in a black rubber hose? It needs to be pressure tested maybe shooting soapy water at it.The breather hose looks fine. I took it off and inspected it.
"Looking" at most mower parts doesn't cut it for a true test.
#16
S
slomo
S
slomo
All "new" parts require testing. I know you are in the middle of doing this. Just wanted to state the obvious. All new parts need tested to confirm they are good. Most everything is cloned in "Chyna" (Trump) as we all know. Counterfeit parts are all over the place.I bought an OEM oil pump and installed it. The next time I mowed it was leaking again.
#17
R
RayMcD
R
RayMcD
Free app called Photoscape works well and is very easy to use. http://www.photoscape.org/ps/main/index.phpSorry guys. Got bogged down with flooding. Anyway, the B&S model 929133 540cc 21.0 J1940 (?). I tried to send a couple of pictures but I don't know how to make them smaller so they could be sent.
#19
S
slomo
S
slomo
Windoze can do it without any special big brother reporting apps.Free app called Photoscape works well and is very easy to use. http://www.photoscape.org/ps/main/index.php
#20
StarTech
The reason I suggested the UV dye as there are time that seepage leak is hard to trace visually without it. It might look like it is one when it is actually in another place. Since the pump is new it can even a casting seam that is causing the leak that just needs leveling out. After market parts are bad about this as the molds don't line up exactly.
StarTech
Yes most parts gotten from sources then regular distributors needs to be checked upon receipt but distributors just as careful to order from know good sources..All "new" parts require testing. I know you are in the middle of doing this. Just wanted to state the obvious. All new parts need tested to confirm they are good. Most everything is cloned in "Chyna" (Trump) as we all know. Counterfeit parts are all over the place.
And Slomo I pretty sure he didn't replace the oil pump as is inside sump and oil leakage would the o-ring on the cover plate. I believe he was referring the fuel pump instead. And in fact he say fuel pump later.I bought an OEM oil pump and installed it. The next time I mowed it was leaking again. I
The reason I suggested the UV dye as there are time that seepage leak is hard to trace visually without it. It might look like it is one when it is actually in another place. Since the pump is new it can even a casting seam that is causing the leak that just needs leveling out. After market parts are bad about this as the molds don't line up exactly.
#21
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
Ok. I think I've isolated the area where the leak is coming from. It's either coming from the brass looking circle on the fuel pump or the little slot holes that go all around the pump. It's a brand new fuel pump but could it be bad too?
Attachments
#22
StarTech
StarTech
Yes it is possible. I have a batch of Oregon pumps to fail short after install last year and Rotary pull all theirs last year as they were failing too. Even a new batch they got in last year as replacement for a batch got earlier failed their in house testing too. Left me having to buy OEM pumps. So far this year Oregon pumps seems to be okay.
#23
M
MParr
M
MParr
A brand new fuel pump can certainly be bad. OEM may cost a little more but it’s a better bet than many aftermarket pumps.Ok. I think I've isolated the area where the leak is coming from. It's either coming from the brass looking circle on the fuel pump or the little slot holes that go all around the pump. It's a brand new fuel pump but could it be bad too?
#24
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
That was an OEM but I will buy another and see what happens. I will post back here with the results. Thanks for everyone's help.
#25
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Inside the fuel pump is just a diaphragm and 2 check valves
As the crankcase pressure is applied to the diaphragm is moves in & out
The brass disc is a filter because air has to be expelled to enable the diaphragm to go out .
If oil is coming from there then the usual culprit is a blown head gasket applying too much pressure to the pump diaphragm
oder fuel line is 2 or 3 tubes inside each other and it is easy to rupture the inner tube when removing or replacing the tubes
Petrol coming out of the brass filter = ruptured diaphragm .
.
As the crankcase pressure is applied to the diaphragm is moves in & out
The brass disc is a filter because air has to be expelled to enable the diaphragm to go out .
If oil is coming from there then the usual culprit is a blown head gasket applying too much pressure to the pump diaphragm
oder fuel line is 2 or 3 tubes inside each other and it is easy to rupture the inner tube when removing or replacing the tubes
Petrol coming out of the brass filter = ruptured diaphragm .
.
#26
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
What if it’s not coming out of the brass filter but the little slots around the brass filter? Same thing? Blown gasket?Inside the fuel pump is just a diaphragm and 2 check valves
As the crankcase pressure is applied to the diaphragm is moves in & out
The brass disc is a filter because air has to be expelled to enable the diaphragm to go out .
If oil is coming from there then the usual culprit is a blown head gasket applying too much pressure to the pump diaphragm
oder fuel line is 2 or 3 tubes inside each other and it is easy to rupture the inner tube when removing or replacing the tubes
Petrol coming out of the brass filter = ruptured diaphragm .
.
#27
VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ
VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ
It is a fuel pump. Oil emitted from that or lines means one of several issues. The breather controls crankcase vacuum. If it fails as a check valve, excessive loss of crankcase vacuum happens and flow increases with it able to carry a mist of oil out the line thru the pump and usually on to the air filter cavity as well. Another possible problem is a head gasket failure which then adds compression pressure to the crankcase over powering the breather. Another most common problem is oil over full or diluted by gas. If over full or very thin put a drop of oil on a piece of paper and wait 5 min to see if one consolidated ring is shown or gas creates a secondary ring which indicates gas dilution caused by a carb float problem. some find a flammability test of the oil defining as well. A lighter to the freshly dipped metal dipstick is ok for a badly diluted oil. The fact that oil appears under PTO load is a sign that all of the above are possible. Another quick test requires two people. remove the dip stick and seal the opening with your hand. Have someone start the cold engine and sense a vacuum or pressure. The only value of this test is proof of pressure or lack of vacuum, now you have to find the cause. Also make sure the oil is not hot for this test and not over filled. A compression test is not truly valuable to prove a bad head gasket, in stead a leak down test is needed. Short of that, prove all else not at fault and replace the head gasket. You can buy a manual for the engine. Enjoy.I have a Hustler Sport 48" ZTR with a 21 HP Briggs and Stratton engine. I noticed after mowing I had a bad oil leak coming from the oil pump to the carburetor. I inspected the line and saw no tears or holes so I thought it was the oil pump. I bought an OEM oil pump and installed it. The next time I mowed it was leaking again. I will say that when the mower is not engaged and just idling I don't see any leaks but after I engage the PTO oil starts to drip from the line that goes from the pump to the carb. I replaced the clamp on the pump with a hose clamp to make sure the old one wasn't too lose. Could the line have a pin hole or something? I did take it off and checked by putting an air hose in it and listening for any air. Any help would be appreciated.
#29
W
WALDO1234
W
WALDO1234
Too much oil will cause it to blow out the breatherI have a Hustler Sport 48" ZTR with a 21 HP Briggs and Stratton engine. I noticed after mowing I had a bad oil leak coming from the oil pump to the carburetor. I inspected the line and saw no tears or holes so I thought it was the oil pump. I bought an OEM oil pump and installed it. The next time I mowed it was leaking again. I will say that when the mower is not engaged and just idling I don't see any leaks but after I engage the PTO oil starts to drip from the line that goes from the pump to the carb. I replaced the clamp on the pump with a hose clamp to make sure the old one wasn't too lose. Could the line have a pin hole or something? I did take it off and checked by putting an air hose in it and listening for any air. Any help would be appreciated.
#30
R
RevB
R
RevB
Win is the King reporting app....Windoze can do it without any special big brother reporting apps.
#31
R
RevB
R
RevB
The brass circle is a sintered bronze air filter.Ok. I think I've isolated the area where the leak is coming from. It's either coming from the brass looking circle on the fuel pump or the little slot holes that go all around the pump. It's a brand new fuel pump but could it be bad too?
#32
G
Gord Baker
G
Gord Baker
Is there a Crankcase Vent that may be plugged? Oil overfilled?The breather hose looks fine. I took it off and inspected it.
#33
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
I can't see any holes. I put it in a bucket of water and blew air into it and I got no bubbles. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the pump itself.Guy, can you see tiny holes in a black rubber hose? It needs to be pressure tested maybe shooting soapy water at it.
"Looking" at most mower parts doesn't cut it for a true test.
#34
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
I don't believe so but I will check. Thanks.Is there a Crankcase Vent that may be plugged? Oil overfilled?
#35
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
Interesting ideas that I will try. One question: When doing the pressure test with my hand, should I feel a vacuum trying to suck air or should it be no suction at all?It is a fuel pump. Oil emitted from that or lines means one of several issues. The breather controls crankcase vacuum. If it fails as a check valve, excessive loss of crankcase vacuum happens and flow increases with it able to carry a mist of oil out the line thru the pump and usually on to the air filter cavity as well. Another possible problem is a head gasket failure which then adds compression pressure to the crankcase over powering the breather. Another most common problem is oil over full or diluted by gas. If over full or very thin put a drop of oil on a piece of paper and wait 5 min to see if one consolidated ring is shown or gas creates a secondary ring which indicates gas dilution caused by a carb float problem. some find a flammability test of the oil defining as well. A lighter to the freshly dipped metal dipstick is ok for a badly diluted oil. The fact that oil appears under PTO load is a sign that all of the above are possible. Another quick test requires two people. remove the dip stick and seal the opening with your hand. Have someone start the cold engine and sense a vacuum or pressure. The only value of this test is proof of pressure or lack of vacuum, now you have to find the cause. Also make sure the oil is not hot for this test and not over filled. A compression test is not truly valuable to prove a bad head gasket, in stead a leak down test is needed. Short of that, prove all else not at fault and replace the head gasket. You can buy a manual for the engine. Enjoy.
#36
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
No to both. I had been running the mower since spring after it's initial tune up. I haven't had the problem until now and I haven't added any oil to the engine since this spring.Is there a Crankcase Vent that may be plugged? Oil overfilled?
#37
A
Affordable in Indy
A
Affordable in Indy
I believe I know what your problem is. I've seen this before. What you replaced was the fuel pump, not an oil pump. That is not your problem. The line running from the engine crankcase to the fuel pump should only be supplying air pressure to turn the pump internally. If you have oil in that line and/or oil venting from the fuel pump, the engine crankcase may be getting over pressurized by a blown head gasket. Start the engine, let it run for a minute or two and shut it off. Remove the dipstick and look for white vapor in the oil fill tube. If you see the vapor, that's exhaust fumes leaking into the engine crankcase. You have a blown head gasket.
#38
T
Tbone0106
T
Tbone0106
Most Briggs engines in that size range don't even have an oil pump. They have a "splasher paddle wheel" thingmajig instead. In any case, there is no line that goes from an oil pump to the carburetor. What you're looking at is almost certainly a breather hose that vents the discharge from the PCV valve, not to the carburetor, but to the intake.
The most likely problem is that you have overfilled the crankcase with oil. The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is designed to release pressure and oil vapor from the crankcase; the hose feeds the discharge to the intake and the oil vapor is then sucked in and burned along with the gasoline. On Briggs motors that size, the PCV valve is generally mounted in the front of the engine block, not all that high above the oil reservoir. It may appear to be an oil outlet of some sort, but it isn't. If you overfill the crankcase with oil, the liquid oil can reach the PCV valve -- which it should NEVER do -- and you will have problems very much like you describe.
I've had a number of customers with similar problems that cropped up right after they changed the oil in their own engines. Instead of using the dipstick to gauge the amount of oil in the crankcase, they went by the book and dumped the specified quantity of oil into the engine. Unless you literally turn the mower on its side, you cannot drain all the oil out of one of these Briggs engines. The oil remaining gets added to the specified amount of oil you dumped in..... and you've got too much oil in the crankcase.
The most likely problem is that you have overfilled the crankcase with oil. The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is designed to release pressure and oil vapor from the crankcase; the hose feeds the discharge to the intake and the oil vapor is then sucked in and burned along with the gasoline. On Briggs motors that size, the PCV valve is generally mounted in the front of the engine block, not all that high above the oil reservoir. It may appear to be an oil outlet of some sort, but it isn't. If you overfill the crankcase with oil, the liquid oil can reach the PCV valve -- which it should NEVER do -- and you will have problems very much like you describe.
I've had a number of customers with similar problems that cropped up right after they changed the oil in their own engines. Instead of using the dipstick to gauge the amount of oil in the crankcase, they went by the book and dumped the specified quantity of oil into the engine. Unless you literally turn the mower on its side, you cannot drain all the oil out of one of these Briggs engines. The oil remaining gets added to the specified amount of oil you dumped in..... and you've got too much oil in the crankcase.
#39
J
johnny7
http://www.simpleimageresizer.com/
Resize 75%
Video size reducer
Online Converter - Convert Image, Video, Audio, & Document Files (freeconvert.com)
Reduce to 50%
J
johnny7
Image resizerSorry guys. Got bogged down with flooding. Anyway, the B&S model 929133 540cc 21.0 J1940 (?). I tried to send a couple of pictures but I don't know how to make them smaller so they could be sent.
http://www.simpleimageresizer.com/
Resize 75%
Video size reducer
Online Converter - Convert Image, Video, Audio, & Document Files (freeconvert.com)
Reduce to 50%
#40
B
bertsmobile1
1) blown head gasket
2) crankcase vent stuck shut .
B
bertsmobile1
Yes the crankcase is over pressurizing and there are only 2 causes that do not cause a smoke screen when you mowWhat if it’s not coming out of the brass filter but the little slots around the brass filter? Same thing? Blown gasket?
1) blown head gasket
2) crankcase vent stuck shut .
#41
C
ChrisBFRPKY
C
ChrisBFRPKY
Yep, head gasket. If you're using the aftermarket plastic fuel pumps, buy the ten pack, you'll need them.
#42
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
The order for the diagnosis got all messed up here.
Throwing Parts at it like replacing the fuel pump thinking it's going to fix the problem hardly ever does so you should never replace a part until you're absolutely certain or really close to certain that is bad.
Should have done more research on it before replacing anything because just because it only cost $7 ship to your door from amazon, doesn't mean you should do it and it doesn't mean it's worth the chance. Lol
The two common causes of oil coming out of that brass filter in the fuel pump would be a blown head gasket or thinned out oil due to fuel dilution into the crankcase or what they call fuel migration.
Fuel migration is caused by a needle and seat that doesn't shut off completely when the engine stops running and the float raises up so it continues to flood out the throat of the carburetor and depending on where the engine stops with the piston and the cylinder, it can flood the cylinder completely and then find its way past the rings in just a few minutes and you can end up with a quart of gas into your oil.
This requires either a new carburetor or some attention to the needle and or seat which should mean replacing them both so you have two new sealing areas.
Some people cheat I just replace the needle valve and sometimes they get by for a long time but sometimes it looks down in a month or a week or overnight and it starts leaking again and they have the same problem and they just wasted another quart and a half of oil.
You can use one of the little thumb fuel shut offs to prevent this but it's best to fix the problem because you will soon forget to turn off the fuel shut off and it will happen again.
A common sign of this happening is you no longer have to choke the engine to start it. In fact it's hard to start and it blows a big puff of smoke soon as it starts and then clears up or you have to turn the choke off to get to start.
If this is not the problem it's not doing any of this and the oil is not above the level that previously was and then that by gas then it's likely a blown head gasket which is probably the more common of the two.
Pretty much all of these brakes overhead valve 31 and 33 series engines will do this eventually.
It's not a matter of if but when.
It's a terrible design on the right side when you're looking at it by the lifter galley with too much space between the two bolts and two thin of gasket and too narrow of a gasket so it blows out and then starts to pressurize the crankcase and that blows oil out that hole since the fuel pump is connected too the crankcase so I can get its pulse alternate between vacuum and pressure so it can move the little rubber diaphragm inside so it can actually create the pumping action for the fuel.
You can check your plug and see if it's getting black wet City stuff on it which is a sign of the head gasket too and I have found one of the best ways to check for a blown head gasket is to get the more up to operating temperature and ride around in a tight circle to the left three times as fast as you can and then go to the right three times as fast as you can and then back to the left three times as fast as you can..
It sounds funny but usually this will flash the oil enough that you'll get a big white poof of smoke so much it looks like a mosquito fogger and you can't see your house.
I've also found that if you run it at 3/4 speed or at least a little over half speed when it's warm and slowly lift the dipstick up about an inch and a half it will often cause it to suck some oil through and start smoking also and if you notice a lot of pressure coming out of the dipstick it's probably blown too but they all have a little bit of pressure out of the dipstick because they're doing that suck blow suck blow suck blow thing.
Throwing Parts at it like replacing the fuel pump thinking it's going to fix the problem hardly ever does so you should never replace a part until you're absolutely certain or really close to certain that is bad.
Should have done more research on it before replacing anything because just because it only cost $7 ship to your door from amazon, doesn't mean you should do it and it doesn't mean it's worth the chance. Lol
The two common causes of oil coming out of that brass filter in the fuel pump would be a blown head gasket or thinned out oil due to fuel dilution into the crankcase or what they call fuel migration.
Fuel migration is caused by a needle and seat that doesn't shut off completely when the engine stops running and the float raises up so it continues to flood out the throat of the carburetor and depending on where the engine stops with the piston and the cylinder, it can flood the cylinder completely and then find its way past the rings in just a few minutes and you can end up with a quart of gas into your oil.
This requires either a new carburetor or some attention to the needle and or seat which should mean replacing them both so you have two new sealing areas.
Some people cheat I just replace the needle valve and sometimes they get by for a long time but sometimes it looks down in a month or a week or overnight and it starts leaking again and they have the same problem and they just wasted another quart and a half of oil.
You can use one of the little thumb fuel shut offs to prevent this but it's best to fix the problem because you will soon forget to turn off the fuel shut off and it will happen again.
A common sign of this happening is you no longer have to choke the engine to start it. In fact it's hard to start and it blows a big puff of smoke soon as it starts and then clears up or you have to turn the choke off to get to start.
If this is not the problem it's not doing any of this and the oil is not above the level that previously was and then that by gas then it's likely a blown head gasket which is probably the more common of the two.
Pretty much all of these brakes overhead valve 31 and 33 series engines will do this eventually.
It's not a matter of if but when.
It's a terrible design on the right side when you're looking at it by the lifter galley with too much space between the two bolts and two thin of gasket and too narrow of a gasket so it blows out and then starts to pressurize the crankcase and that blows oil out that hole since the fuel pump is connected too the crankcase so I can get its pulse alternate between vacuum and pressure so it can move the little rubber diaphragm inside so it can actually create the pumping action for the fuel.
You can check your plug and see if it's getting black wet City stuff on it which is a sign of the head gasket too and I have found one of the best ways to check for a blown head gasket is to get the more up to operating temperature and ride around in a tight circle to the left three times as fast as you can and then go to the right three times as fast as you can and then back to the left three times as fast as you can..
It sounds funny but usually this will flash the oil enough that you'll get a big white poof of smoke so much it looks like a mosquito fogger and you can't see your house.
I've also found that if you run it at 3/4 speed or at least a little over half speed when it's warm and slowly lift the dipstick up about an inch and a half it will often cause it to suck some oil through and start smoking also and if you notice a lot of pressure coming out of the dipstick it's probably blown too but they all have a little bit of pressure out of the dipstick because they're doing that suck blow suck blow suck blow thing.
#43
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
Ok. So I have a little bit of diagnosing to do this weekend. I actually believe it’s the head gasket because from what I’ve been reading, these engines are notorious for blowing head gaskets. I will post my findings for sure. I appreciate all the help.The order for the diagnosis got all messed up here.
Throwing Parts at it like replacing the fuel pump thinking it's going to fix the problem hardly ever does so you should never replace a part until you're absolutely certain or really close to certain that is bad.
Should have done more research on it before replacing anything because just because it only cost $7 ship to your door from amazon, doesn't mean you should do it and it doesn't mean it's worth the chance. Lol
The two common causes of oil coming out of that brass filter in the fuel pump would be a blown head gasket or thinned out oil due to fuel dilution into the crankcase or what they call fuel migration.
Fuel migration is caused by a needle and seat that doesn't shut off completely when the engine stops running and the float raises up so it continues to flood out the throat of the carburetor and depending on where the engine stops with the piston and the cylinder, it can flood the cylinder completely and then find its way past the rings in just a few minutes and you can end up with a quart of gas into your oil.
This requires either a new carburetor or some attention to the needle and or seat which should mean replacing them both so you have two new sealing areas.
Some people cheat I just replace the needle valve and sometimes they get by for a long time but sometimes it looks down in a month or a week or overnight and it starts leaking again and they have the same problem and they just wasted another quart and a half of oil.
You can use one of the little thumb fuel shut offs to prevent this but it's best to fix the problem because you will soon forget to turn off the fuel shut off and it will happen again.
A common sign of this happening is you no longer have to choke the engine to start it. In fact it's hard to start and it blows a big puff of smoke soon as it starts and then clears up or you have to turn the choke off to get to start.
If this is not the problem it's not doing any of this and the oil is not above the level that previously was and then that by gas then it's likely a blown head gasket which is probably the more common of the two.
Pretty much all of these brakes overhead valve 31 and 33 series engines will do this eventually.
It's not a matter of if but when.
It's a terrible design on the right side when you're looking at it by the lifter galley with too much space between the two bolts and two thin of gasket and too narrow of a gasket so it blows out and then starts to pressurize the crankcase and that blows oil out that hole since the fuel pump is connected too the crankcase so I can get its pulse alternate between vacuum and pressure so it can move the little rubber diaphragm inside so it can actually create the pumping action for the fuel.
You can check your plug and see if it's getting black wet City stuff on it which is a sign of the head gasket too and I have found one of the best ways to check for a blown head gasket is to get the more up to operating temperature and ride around in a tight circle to the left three times as fast as you can and then go to the right three times as fast as you can and then back to the left three times as fast as you can..
It sounds funny but usually this will flash the oil enough that you'll get a big white poof of smoke so much it looks like a mosquito fogger and you can't see your house.
I've also found that if you run it at 3/4 speed or at least a little over half speed when it's warm and slowly lift the dipstick up about an inch and a half it will often cause it to suck some oil through and start smoking also and if you notice a lot of pressure coming out of the dipstick it's probably blown too but they all have a little bit of pressure out of the dipstick because they're doing that suck blow suck blow suck blow thing.
#44
J
jetsticks
J
jetsticks
Okay. Thanks to all who helped me fix this issue. After trying many different ideas it WAS the head gasket. I replaced the head gasket and there were no more leaks. Since it's getting to be cooler here now I'm not sure how much I'll be using the mower so I'll have to keep an eye on it next year. Here is an issue I ran into though. My torque wrench wasn't working so I just guestimated on the torque. Probably not a good idea but I didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars for a new one. Secondly, my feeler guage only went to .012 and I needed one to go to .004 when I was adjusting the valves. So I guessed again. This time I was wrong so I went and bought another guage that went to .004. Once set they worked just fine.
#45
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Guessing at head bolt torque will result in a blow head gasket very quickly. Most auto parts store have a free loaner program where you can get a torque wrench for free. There are very specific reasons for properly torquing boors and all the experienced techs on this forum will say, “ DO IT RIGHT OR DO IT OVER”.
#46
S
slomo
S
slomo
Someone on your block must have a torque wrench. Got to be some gearhead down the road. Bring a 12 pack and make a new friend.