hydro oil
- Thread starter chevitz
- Start date
Ric
Lawn Pro
As long as it's the 20w50 you shouldn't have any problems. Kendall is good oil.
Mobile One is what is referred to a full synthetic oil which is made from a highly refined base 3 oil (dinosaur oil), a very good oil but not a true 100% synthetic oil which is made from either a group 4 oil (PAO) or group 5 (Ester)based oil. Mobile One does manufacture a true synthetic but not the 15w-50 or 20w-50 as it is referred to as a full synthetic. For example Amsoil is a group 4 true synthetic and Red Line is a Group 5 oil. There are other manufactures that produce true synthetic oils as well. I bet the Oil Toro is recommending (I assume under their label and expensive) is either a group 4 or 5 oil which is a true synthetic and therefor has the advantage of an extended drain interval. Extended service is one advantage of a true 100 % synthetic. Although I would still continue to change at the recommended interval. As for my Hustler Super Z HD which takes 12 quarts to change the hydro oil, I use Mobile One 15W-50 which is a full synthetic and I very good oil which is significantly cheaper than using a true synthetic oil which would under normal use not provide an advantage. However if I was operating in extreme heat or cold or other severe conditions, I would most assuredly use a true synthetic but that is not going to occur in any conditions I would encounter or even consider mowing in.
20W50 is basically air cooled motorcycle oil. If you're having trouble finding it in your area ask the clerks where the motorcycle oil is. Wally World usually has it in a small separate section next to helmets etc. or a very small bottom shelf that's hard to find in the oil section.
Parts stores will usually have it also.
If you can't find it that way but live near a motorcycle dealership you can buy it there but it will probably be more$$
Parts stores will usually have it also.
If you can't find it that way but live near a motorcycle dealership you can buy it there but it will probably be more$$
motorcycle oils dont have the friction modifiers like automotive oil has.
I'm not sure why you run a lighter weight oil. These transmissions use the oil as hydraulic fluid. So ruining a thinner oil would probably create more heat due to thinner oil squeezing by clearances in the trans.
You would think a lighter oil would get through faster,the thicker oil would take more force to squeeze through,,but hey it is what it is....I didnt do my change yet,,and have another 50 hours to research it,,Im probably going to go with Royal Purple 20/50 with the extra zinc and phosphorus to be honest.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
1) Air cooled motorcycle oils , air cooled mower oils and air cooled car oils all have different addative packs and are nothing like the same.
2) 20W 50 was the most common car oil till around 2000 when to meet with the EPA regulations on start up thinner oils were used which allowed the engine to spin faster at start up.
3) thinner oil in the hydros will leak a bit faster, but lubricate better then the heavier oils.
4) the thinner the oil the better it conducts heat so thinner oils heat up faster and cool better than heavier oils.
2) 20W 50 was the most common car oil till around 2000 when to meet with the EPA regulations on start up thinner oils were used which allowed the engine to spin faster at start up.
3) thinner oil in the hydros will leak a bit faster, but lubricate better then the heavier oils.
4) the thinner the oil the better it conducts heat so thinner oils heat up faster and cool better than heavier oils.