hydro gear 2800 Oil Change Problem

[bertsmobile1]

Sounds like you know what you are doing.
Also note that there was some talk of using longer bolts with a longer unthreaded shank length then cutting the excess thread off so the shear is running through an unthreaded section of the bolt.
Not sure if it was this model but some of them the trick was to put the bolt in the other way round.
Good luck.
I am out of here as it is a mower I know nothing about.

 

[turboawd]

Unfortunately for me, I bought the mower used and was told early in the process that the warranty for my mower didn't extend to the second owner. I did, however, find one of the threads you mentioned and it was really informative. In looking over the newer design, Hustler did increase the bulk and rigidity of the new unit. However, I think my overarching problem was due to corrosion and friction on the bolts. The main features of the new design (outside of more metal) are that it reduces the chance of corrosion by eliminating the V-channel and it reinforces the lower mount bolt receivers with thick-walled tubes. However, in my non-engineer's eyes, it looks like I can achieve similar results (or at least better than factory results) by modifying the original unit with a bit of welding and some hardened stainless bolts. I can weld in bolt support. It also appears that by carrying the cross member to the outboard side of the transmission mounts, sandwiching the bottom of the transmission would be better. Stainless bolts aren't as strong as the hardened bolts, but stainless is better in friction and corrosion situations; however, I do intend to call about the upgraded part and ask if I qualify. I am also open to suggestions on modifications to the original unit. These are just my first thoughts.

Trust me. Corrosion is not the problem. There is just too much flex in the frame and the bolts rub on the brackets and they snap.
You need the thicker newer bracket. It helps prevent flexing between transmissions.
With the old bracket, I broke many bolts. With the new bracket, one of the small forward bolts broke once. Not a perfect fix, but a lot better.

 

[The Chairman]

Or the pump itself quit pumping. That's the component of the system that's common to both hydros. If it goes, they go.

There are two pumps. I agree with the poster that said that it sounds like he lost the belt. It's a pretty common occurrence and a real PITA for some of us. I have learned a lot about this the hard way...

• Loosen pulley lever arm (just in front of the engine)
• Remove spring from the pulley side
• Check blades on each input shaft (replace as needed)
• Check all pulleys, especially the idler (replace as needed)
• Check belt (replace as needed)
• I added a second spring inside the original
• Check belt routing with your fingers until you're certain it's on the pulleys.
  • The pulley on the engine is easy to miss!
  • No need to remove any bolts to get that belt in there!
• Pull idler in place and attach spring(s). I use a spring tool for this.
• DON'T FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE IDLER PULLEY PIVOT ARM!!!
  • Mine was loose from the factory. Tightening it solved a lot of problems.
• This is best done on a cold engine!

 

[smithboy]

First off, thanks to all for the fast responses. It really helped putting these symptoms together into a diagnosis. As soon as I got everything back together, the hydro gears started doing their job again. WOOOHOOO! It feels good to know I didn't make a $1600 mistake. Attached are pictures of the two offending fasteners (nuts and bolts).





There is obviously some corrosion going on there on both bolts that failed, but I can't say for sure it was a significant contributing factor in the failure. The two unbroken mounting bolts, however, were in much better condition. I replaced all four to make sure. I used longer bolts, spacers and lock washers to keep the thicker shanks of the bolt in the areas that are probably most prone to damage/breakage. I ended up using grade 8 bolts again due to local availability instead of stainless...Also, I read that standard stainless bolts are not good for use in a suspensions because of their lower tolerance for impact.

The cross brace wasn't cracked or bent, so I decided to re-use it for a little while longer...at least until I can get a replacement or until I can engineer a reasonable fix for the current one. If I modify the current cross brace, I will post pictures.

I also have found what appears to be a "reasonably" low-price source for the updated cross brace, which I may end up buying anyway. The shipping charges keep it around $100 to my door, but I am also trying to negotiate a freebie from the local dealer that originally sold the mower, but that's a longer shot.

Has anyone bought from this place (below) before?
https://www.hustlerlawnmowerparts.com/hustler-part-123292/

By the way, I was able to find a 50.5" X 0.5" drive belt at our local APC (Carquest) for $18.18. The belt was an ag/industrial belt that was fabric-wrapped. I cut grass for about 30 minutes after the repair and everything works great...so far. I also ordered an original 607400 belt the day after my first post for $24.95 in case this belt fails.

I will update if anything changes in the short term, as I plan to do some serious mowing this weekend.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Well done.
When you do the upgrade don't forget to liberally grease the bolts.
No water = no corrosion so wheel bearing grease is best.

 

[smithboy]

Well done.
When you do the upgrade don't forget to liberally grease the bolts.
No water = no corrosion so wheel bearing grease is best.

Will do on the grease. That seems like a no-brainer, but I sure didn't think of it during the re-assembly. I don't plan on putting too many hours on the machine before taking this apart again for an upgrade.

Just as a bit of info for the cause, here is the belt I got from CarQuest. The initial fit was perfect, but I will be keeping up with the number of hours I get out of it. So, don't consider this an endorsement or review yet, just information. As a bit more info, I found the same belt online after the fact for $6.21 each with flat rate shipping of $6.99...for example, three belts would be a total $33.91 or about $11.30 each. Compare that to the original belt from Lowe's at $65.72 + tax for one belt.

 

[Mr. Mower]

Will do on the grease. That seems like a no-brainer, but I sure didn't think of it during the re-assembly. I don't plan on putting too many hours on the machine before taking this apart again for an upgrade.

Just as a bit of info for the cause, here is the belt I got from CarQuest. The initial fit was perfect, but I will be keeping up with the number of hours I get out of it. So, don't consider this an endorsement or review yet, just information. As a bit more info, I found the same belt online after the fact for $6.21 each with flat rate shipping of $6.99...for example, three belts would be a total $33.91 or about $11.30 each. Compare that to the original belt from Lowe's at $65.72 + tax for one belt.
View attachment 45223

Alright, way to go! :thumbsup:

 

[The Chairman]

For the belt, I went with Gates' 6851 HD Fractional HP belt. It's covered in Kevlar and really made a difference. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XE3P6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[clubairth]

If you are interested there are actually 2 braces you can add. I have both on my SD54 mower.
Very rigid now!



.
.
.

 

[turboawd]

What's the part number for the yellow bracket?