Hustler/Honda starting issue

Need to set tester to continuity. Then check switch again. Great videos about this on YouTube. Search for lawn mower key switch testing.
 
May be on to something. I just pulled engine top shroud off and when starter is energized, the starter gear that raises to mesh with flywheel teeth is getting hung up under a flywheel tooth and won't allow it to fully engage with flywheel. By bumping starter, it eventually moves flywheel just enough to allow flywheel and starter teeth to lineup and that's when engine turns over. Should starter gear be greased, or is there something else going on?
 
This is just from my experience only.
When starters are acting like this it is normally one of two things. Low battery(should be very close to 12.4 volts) or the valves need adjusting (Once the engine stops where it should then teeth line up).
 
Thanks for that info. Checked valve lash and they are within specs. Switched battery with one from my other mower (new this year). I loosened both bolts of starter and with it being backed away from block, starter now engages every time. I would say maybe I need to place a couple washers between starter and block, but can't figure why the original starter was giving same symptoms. This just started this season.
 
I have only had to shim one starter. It was a cheap knock off. Had no idea until I installed it. Not even a cheap knock off price. I have heard lots of stories of having to do it though.
 
BlazNT said:
I have only had to shim one starter. It was a cheap knock off. Had no idea until I installed it. Not even a cheap knock off price. I have heard lots of stories of having to do it though.
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Don't shim the starter motor. That will most likely give cause to replace the flywheel when the teeth that are not making contact at full depth wears out the teeth unnecessarily. You have either a dragging starter motor or you have low voltage and/or amperage to the going to the starter motor. Shimming won't fix low voltage or amperage. It will cause you more expense and time however.

Find the problem, fix the problem, don't make more problems.

A 12 volt system should have 13.8 volts when running and 12 volts to the starter motor in start position on the switch. That may help you a bit.

Remember, the starter motor drive was properly at depth for years, it didn't change by itself.
 
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That makes a lot of sense about the voltage drop. I will check both the wire to solenoid and main wire from battery to starter. They should both be 12 volts?
 
ghost1 said:
May be on to something. I just pulled engine top shroud off and when starter is energized, the starter gear that raises to mesh with flywheel teeth is getting hung up under a flywheel tooth and won't allow it to fully engage with flywheel. By bumping starter, it eventually moves flywheel just enough to allow flywheel and starter teeth to lineup and that's when engine turns over. Should starter gear be greased, or is there something else going on?
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You can apply a very small amount of white litilum grease to the spiral which is called the bendix gear.
The teeth on the starter do wear as does the entire spiral gear mechanism ( Bendix ).
They are a replacement item Johnstone Automotive used to do aftermarket parts and most auto electricians should be able to swap it over for you.
If you decide to pull it apart yourself be very careful with the retainer as they are specific to that starter , not a replaceable item and a right royal PIA to remove and almost as hard to replace.
A long time Mar & Par type mower service shop might have some spare ones in the box of starter bits under the electrical bench but most glass fronts will just hit you for $ 200 + for a full replacement.
 
Ran a voltage check this morning. Following are using mower frame for ground
Battery 12.3
Lead from battery to starter 12.3
Lead from key to solenoid to activate 12.3
Lead from starter side of solenoid is 10 when solenoid engaged and starter spinning

I get same readings on both starters. Original and one just purchased.
 
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