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Anybody know why my Hustler's starter will engage sometimes and just clicks others? Have replaced starter and still does same thing. Have to keep bumping to engage.

Have you checked the solenoid? Clicking is normally low battery then solenoid then the last possible thing is starter.

It looks like the started solenoid comes with the starter so that's all new. Start with battery cables and connections and if you got good power to the starter, the next thing is check for voltage drop to the small wire that operates the starter solenoid coil.

Thanks for the quick replies. Have scrubbed all battery and ground connections with wire brush. Tried different battery that I know is a good one. Hooked solenoid wire to volt meter and is reading between 10 and 12 volts every time key engaged. Mower has three relays (start), (kill), and not sure what other does. Rotated to see if the (start) may be bad with same results. Acts like an old car I had that had to have key bumped a few times for starter to kick in.

ghost1 said:

Thanks for the quick replies. Have scrubbed all battery and ground connections with wire brush. Tried different battery that I know is a good one. Hooked solenoid wire to volt meter and is reading between 10 and 12 volts every time key engaged. Mower has three relays (start), (kill), and not sure what other does. Rotated to see if the (start) may be bad with same results. Acts like an old car I had that had to have key bumped a few times for starter to kick in.

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I was looking at the wiring diagram and it looks like a red wire go's to the starter solenoid coil and that go's to a starter relay. you might want to check that relay.

It has three relays all same number, so I rotated them hoping the "start" relay was bad, but same results after switch.

Seeing you are loosing 2 volts to the starter solenoid check where you are losing it. It looks like relay number 86 terminal go's to the key switch check your voltage there and number 30 go's to seat switch check volage there. This is if I am looking at the right wiring diagram?

Thanks for that info, it really helps. Will check key and seat switch first thing in morning and advise findings. Thanks again........

I bypassed the seat switch and checked voltage at ignition switch. I'm showing right at 10 volts at red hot wire. I'm electrical schematic challenged but when I set my meter to OHM to check continuity, every pole on ignition switch except for red hot wire shows connected to ground. Wire colors are red (hot), black, black, orange (two coming from same pole), red/black for a total of five. Also when engaging starter if it just clicks and I hold ignition key to start position, I'm blowing a fuse. I took old starter and bench tested it and it works fine.

Also tried different PTO switch

Need to set tester to continuity. Then check switch again. Great videos about this on YouTube. Search for lawn mower key switch testing.

May be on to something. I just pulled engine top shroud off and when starter is energized, the starter gear that raises to mesh with flywheel teeth is getting hung up under a flywheel tooth and won't allow it to fully engage with flywheel. By bumping starter, it eventually moves flywheel just enough to allow flywheel and starter teeth to lineup and that's when engine turns over. Should starter gear be greased, or is there something else going on?

This is just from my experience only.
When starters are acting like this it is normally one of two things. Low battery(should be very close to 12.4 volts) or the valves need adjusting (Once the engine stops where it should then teeth line up).

Thanks for that info. Checked valve lash and they are within specs. Switched battery with one from my other mower (new this year). I loosened both bolts of starter and with it being backed away from block, starter now engages every time. I would say maybe I need to place a couple washers between starter and block, but can't figure why the original starter was giving same symptoms. This just started this season.

I have only had to shim one starter. It was a cheap knock off. Had no idea until I installed it. Not even a cheap knock off price. I have heard lots of stories of having to do it though.

BlazNT said:

I have only had to shim one starter. It was a cheap knock off. Had no idea until I installed it. Not even a cheap knock off price. I have heard lots of stories of having to do it though.

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Don't shim the starter motor. That will most likely give cause to replace the flywheel when the teeth that are not making contact at full depth wears out the teeth unnecessarily. You have either a dragging starter motor or you have low voltage and/or amperage to the going to the starter motor. Shimming won't fix low voltage or amperage. It will cause you more expense and time however.

Find the problem, fix the problem, don't make more problems.

A 12 volt system should have 13.8 volts when running and 12 volts to the starter motor in start position on the switch. That may help you a bit.

Remember, the starter motor drive was properly at depth for years, it didn't change by itself.

That makes a lot of sense about the voltage drop. I will check both the wire to solenoid and main wire from battery to starter. They should both be 12 volts?

Testing your key switch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8G7kxCl9hY
Testing your solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsvJMnpQBas

Check for properly tightened battery cable connections and ground connections for battery, solenoid, etc.

Check battery connections: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRMvpMObwy4

Checking for Voltage Drop: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAdGoMcsbRE

This should help you somewhat.

Have fun and good luck.

Max

ghost1 said:

May be on to something. I just pulled engine top shroud off and when starter is energized, the starter gear that raises to mesh with flywheel teeth is getting hung up under a flywheel tooth and won't allow it to fully engage with flywheel. By bumping starter, it eventually moves flywheel just enough to allow flywheel and starter teeth to lineup and that's when engine turns over. Should starter gear be greased, or is there something else going on?

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You can apply a very small amount of white litilum grease to the spiral which is called the bendix gear.
The teeth on the starter do wear as does the entire spiral gear mechanism ( Bendix ).
They are a replacement item Johnstone Automotive used to do aftermarket parts and most auto electricians should be able to swap it over for you.
If you decide to pull it apart yourself be very careful with the retainer as they are specific to that starter , not a replaceable item and a right royal PIA to remove and almost as hard to replace.
A long time Mar & Par type mower service shop might have some spare ones in the box of starter bits under the electrical bench but most glass fronts will just hit you for $ 200 + for a full replacement.

Ran a voltage check this morning. Following are using mower frame for ground
Battery 12.3
Lead from battery to starter 12.3
Lead from key to solenoid to activate 12.3
Lead from starter side of solenoid is 10 when solenoid engaged and starter spinning

I get same readings on both starters. Original and one just purchased.

Have you checked all the dead man, blade engage, brake/clutch switches? You can wire around each one temporarily to see if your voltage returns to 12. If so, hook each one back up one at a time to see which one is causing the problem. Also, test your voltage regulator while you're at it.

Bertsmobile is absolutely correct about the Bendix retainer clip and the little circle retainer clip holder. Don't lose them.

Something you should check about the starter motor are the bushings and brushes. All of the switches could possibly be good and if the bushings are worn to the point the starter motor is dragging under load, it won't matter what all you replace if the problem lay in the bushings or brushes. Brushes can cause a slow starter motor under load as well. If one brush isn't sitting flat on the armature, it won't give full power. Now, you should have about all the information you can digest for starting a motor.

Again, good luck.

Install Starter assist kit #107910