Hi, hope someone can help me out here. I have a Husqvarna riding mower. It was purchased somewhere around 2010. It was used twice on a 1.5ac yard then put away when my father passed away. I drained all the fluids and put stabilizer if the tank and made sure it got into the carb when it was put away. I recently purchased it from my mother, So it's been sitting 10 - 12 years? had to tear into the carb and clean it all up as it was leaking gas all over. My problem is I'm trying to find a float bowl gasket and these lawn shops are telling me they can't help me if I don't have the engine number. Unfortunately I'm 600 miles away and no way to get the number off the engine. I can tell you it is a 22hp Kohler twin cam it has a Walbro carburetor. I will attach photos of the information I have. I thought the bowl gasket was pretty much a standard size but I'm told no.
Any advice would be helpful
Thanks,
Mike
[ATTACHREUSE]
Check the oil level very carefully when you start to use it .
This engine has a pressure feed to the top bush and the oil seal will probably be hard and fail in service
Down side is that will reduce the oil pressure to the conrod big end
The lower is usually fine because it has been sitting in oil , but check it every use for a few months
If it leaks then it can drain the engine in a few minutes
Yes
The engine cover should always be removed either at the end of the season to clean the fins and by preference left off to discourage wild life taking up residence and having midnight snacks on your wiring .
The top seal is under the flywheel
The cover on your engine almost falls off
Yes
The engine cover should always be removed either at the end of the season to clean the fins and by preference left off to discourage wild life taking up residence and having midnight snacks on your wiring .
The top seal is under the flywheel
The cover on your engine almost falls off
Thanks for the information, I'll be heading back to MS the middle of the month. I'll check it out.
#8
Smithsonite
Sitting that long I can pretty much guarantee underneath the engine cover will be packed solid with a mouse motel.
This one sat 3 years up here in MA. Guaranteed valve issues when the head passes 500° ... :
#9
StarTech
Now you know that was factory installed option. I see a lot that out here in the country. It happen within a week sometimes. I recommend to my customers to always keep that pet mouse food already available for the mice and rats.
that model number info shows its a 21hp single cylinder kohler courage engine plus if your carb bowl gasket is leaking its most likely a bad float needle seat setup not properly sutting off fuel flow...youll need to either rebuild the carb or replace it because the gas getting past the bowl gasket usually means the float shutoff needle seat isnt working properly...also check your oil for gas contamination...
that model number info shows its a 21hp single cylinder kohler courage engine plus if your carb bowl gasket is leaking its most likely a bad float needle seat setup not properly sutting off fuel flow...youll need to either rebuild the carb or replace it because the gas getting past the bowl gasket usually means the float shutoff needle seat isnt working properly...also check your oil for gas contamination...
Thank you heading down to MS next week and get to work on it.
#12
StarTech
The OP was asking for the bowl gasket because had cleaned out the carburetor. Plus if the needle is leaking he doesn't have to replace carb, just the needle and seat.
Yes
The engine cover should always be removed either at the end of the season to clean the fins and by preference left off to discourage wild life taking up residence and having midnight snacks on your wiring .
The top seal is under the flywheel
That is the difference between an engine that is designed by an engineer to be quick & easy to assemble and a B & S engine that is designed by an accountant to use the cheapest fasteners possible for every spot
#15
Smithsonite
Amen to that, Bert - exactly the way modern automobiles are manufactured, only they put the low-bidder parts in impossible to access locations, and turn what used to be a 10 minute job into a 5 hour SLOG. I'm so sick of dealing with it I was ready to start refusing to work on cars built after 1994 this week.
You are talking to a man who runs nothing younger than 1990
In the 70's I worked for SimsMetal who were the 3rd largest lead acid battery makers
The car makers were screaming about the "excessive weight" of our batteries and demanding lighter ones to reduce fuel consumption
At the same time they introduced electric seats for the driver & front passenger that added 7 kg in electric motors alone as there were 3 in each seat .
Apart from direct fuel injection I see little real advancement made since 1980
The OP was asking for the bowl gasket because had cleaned out the carburetor. Plus if the needle is leaking he doesn't have to replace carb, just the needle and seat.
just pointing out the possibilities of whats wrong...those walbro carbs has a brass seat and he might not be skilled enough to replace if the seat is corroded preventing the rubber tip needle to shut off fuel flow in the carb...
#18
StarTech
Maybe your right...Maybe a pair pliers, a nut driver, a hammer, and a ruler might be someone abilities. Of course you must follow the included instructions too. But if someone can't do that then they don't need to working on equipment in the first place.
Now I do know a few that couldn't get out of a wet paper bag with both ends open.
you know it takes more than what you listed to remove a brass seat from a walbro carb...but i digress to your experience...im just a 65 year old man with limited knowledge...
#20
StarTech
Well there other tools as you got remove the carburetor of course but I referring to the seat itself and a place to do it but those are give me items. The instruction does show using a drill press but a hammer works.
hmm...a work bench with a vise isnt needed as well...like i said not everyone has what is needed...beside ive repaired plenty without even removing the old seat using valve lapping compound...a Q tip...and carb cleaner...put some lapping compound on the tip...clean the opposite end and install in the drill...polish the brass to remove the corrosion...use carb cleaner to flush out the residule lapping compound and test for seal by reinstalling the needle float seat assy and turn upside down while blowing thru the fuel nipple to check the seal...if cant blow thru...fixed...if not repeat...but then again im just an old guy who doesnt know much...
#22
StarTech
Actually a couple short pieces of 2x4's or anything of equal height can be used that keeps the carb suspended. But they are showing normal shop tools being used.
You be surprised how seats still leaks even if you can't mouth blow through them that why they must be pressure tested for at 30 minutes; otherwords, they must hold a steady dry 7-10 psi for 30 minutes or they fail the test. Wet testing don't count.
Also when you do the polishing the float level must be readjusted to spec.
you take of maybe 1mm if youre lucky polishing the brass seat...thats non existant to the level of the float...plus blowing as hard as you can is more than effective to pressure test the seat if you maintain pressure for about 15 seconds...ive repaired well over a thousand that way....done with or without the drill...a drill makes it easier...and never had to adjust a single float after polishing...almost every time the corrosion has caused a surface irregularity not allowing the needle to seat properly...think ive actually had to replace maybe 5 in my lifetime...
#24
StarTech
Well the ones I have replaced where deeply etched due water damage. And personally I can't develop 5 psi blowing into anything. I have tried to measure it.
I just going to leave this as it is as I see there is no point continuing. Some will argue with a sign post with not a letter on it. I just do works the best for me.
for the record...once again your method requires another tool to validate the process...this time a pressure pump with a gauge...im offering a simple proven method that has worked well for me which was taught to me at a briggs service class many years ago...when you dont know the layout or setup tooling wise to make a field repair many hours away from home you recommend a simplified way to make repairs...this method has worked many times for me.
I see a lot that out here in the country. It happen within a week sometimes. I recommend to my customers to always keep that pet mouse food already available for the mice and rats.
