Most of the time I totally agree with reynoldston, but this time I disagree on one of his posts. The magneto you have has three wires as he said, but both the primary and secondary coils are connected to the same ground. Did you test each of these coils for resistance? You can test each by going to the same ground wire coming off the coil. Are they within specs? Setting point gap and air gap are needed, but with this system you must also set when the points are going to open in relationship to piston location BTDC. With this engine the points should start to open at .035" BTDC. I understand that in 99 percent of the time this has not effect on the spark, but in this case you have tried everything else. The procedure for doing this is in the manual pages 68-70.
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HS40 No Spark Kicken my butt
- Thread starter Polaraco
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Export threadMost of the time I totally agree with reynoldston, but this time I disagree on one of his posts. The magneto you have has three wires as he said, but both the primary and secondary coils are connected to the same ground. Did you test each of these coils for resistance? You can test each by going to the same ground wire coming off the coil. Are they within specs? Setting point gap and air gap are needed, but with this system you must also set when the points are going to open in relationship to piston location BTDC. With this engine the points should start to open at .035" BTDC. I understand that in 99 percent of the time this has not effect on the spark, but in this case you have tried everything else. The procedure for doing this is in the manual pages 68-70.
Yessir That's what I used today to check the timing. 68 to 70. I forget where I read the coil resistance, but it was in spec. Both coils read the same. I used the same ground wire. It's what made sense. Unfortunately, my fluhe won't give me the ohms across the primary side, it just shows zero resistance. The secondary was 20 something.
I'm pretty sure there is something going on in those points. The one side had a crater burned into it, which I scrapped out, but. . .
I saw one zap out of this so far, and it was a pretty good spark at that. But only one. Now that the keyway is lost, it will have to wait. Calling Jacks in the morning. He was out of points though
You just found your problem. 0 ohms across the primary means it iis shorted to ground. Secondary should be around 15,000. The readings you got are not in specs. Bad coil.
MMMMM Then I misunderstood what I read.
Not surprised. . . . I lost alot with my strokes a few years ago. The bigger stuff, diesels and gas jobs, I don't need manuals for. Just specs and tolerances.
My new found handicap frustrates me greatly. That's why I am here
Thank you I am so embarrassed
You just found your problem. 0 ohms across the primary means it iis shorted to ground. Secondary should be around 15,000. The readings you got are not in specs. Bad coil.
You my have misunderstood me.
I have continuity on the coil, on both sides. Both coils are reading 19K. The manual said between 18 and 21K if I recall.
I ordered a new key and the points, will be here later this week.
News at 11
I putzed with this today. Checked and rechecked this that an the other.
I'm getting intermittent spark. That tells me the coil is good. I'm thinking the pit in the points is too much.
I found the key. It was right under my nose.
I hate being old
I'm getting intermittent spark. That tells me the coil is good. I'm thinking the pit in the points is too much.
I found the key. It was right under my nose.
I hate being old
I went thru the same thing with a 5hp on a snowblower. I have had that apart so many times I thought I would wear out the bolts. I checked, cleaned with the dollar bill would get spark but only a couple pulls and then it would quit. I finally took the coil off, the inside of the cover was so dirty as was the inside of the coil case. I replaced the points, everything was spotless inside. Set the points at .020 and the air gap at .020 and I got a nice blue spark!!! YEA! Put everything back together and it fired right up and ran like new after a little carb ajd. I would check the wires that attach to the points, something must be shorting out. A bare spot on it or a crack in the plug wire. It is something simple that is causing your problems. Hope that helps
I went thru the same thing with a 5hp on a snowblower. I have had that apart so many times I thought I would wear out the bolts. I checked, cleaned with the dollar bill would get spark but only a couple pulls and then it would quit. I finally took the coil off, the inside of the cover was so dirty as was the inside of the coil case. I replaced the points, everything was spotless inside. Set the points at .020 and the air gap at .020 and I got a nice blue spark!!! YEA! Put everything back together and it fired right up and ran like new after a little carb ajd. I would check the wires that attach to the points, something must be shorting out. A bare spot on it or a crack in the plug wire. It is something simple that is causing your problems. Hope that helps
Thanks man
It's a new coil and condenser. I cleaned all that stuff. Barely had any dirt or rust in there. Not saying it's not worthy of another look though.
bertsmobile1
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While this might just be making your problems worse please consider bypassing the points all together and fit a hall effect electronic trigger.
You used to be able to get a unit called "Atom" and they published what the timing & advance on each of their units was but when the patient ran out they abonded the market as every engine maker started to fit them as standard once they did not have to pay royalties.
Almost every old mower shop will have a stack of the old units and working pull form old engines.
Ask for one from an engine of around the same cc as your tecumseh.
Most should be OK, just do not use one from a two stroke.
They are not much more expensive than a set of points & condenser and will work happily for the next 50 years.
you fit them to the wire that goes from the points to the coil so you can rig it such that you can revert to points if it does not work.
You used to be able to get a unit called "Atom" and they published what the timing & advance on each of their units was but when the patient ran out they abonded the market as every engine maker started to fit them as standard once they did not have to pay royalties.
Almost every old mower shop will have a stack of the old units and working pull form old engines.
Ask for one from an engine of around the same cc as your tecumseh.
Most should be OK, just do not use one from a two stroke.
They are not much more expensive than a set of points & condenser and will work happily for the next 50 years.
you fit them to the wire that goes from the points to the coil so you can rig it such that you can revert to points if it does not work.
Squaring pitted points is difficult. Hope the condenser is the correct one. When timing try this. Set a small transistor radio down near the engine and SET IT ON A CONTINUOUS STATIC sound. When you rotate the engine the opening points will cause an audible "pop." This lets you concentrate on the timing mark. We used this method years ago. The "hall effect" is a good suggestion despite its unfamiliar name.