HRX217HYA No start

[bertsmobile1]

My bad, I did not read the full thread properly.
If it rips the chord out of your hands when trying to start then the timing is out
Pull the flywheel off & check the timing key.

Mower engines have a very small amount of retardation to allow you to pull start them so even a crack in the timing key can put them in the unstartable zone.

 

[Sparkland]

You might try replacing the choke actuator. Part failure will cause hard/non starting.

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-16620-...d=1554983234&s=gateway&sr=8-2#customerReviews

https://youtu.be/SlxVZCtPpHA

 

[joeangi]

Bertsmobile, thanks for the lead. Sounds like a lot of work for a “new” mower. Is this a common problem? It only tries to rip the cord out of my hand when I spray starting fluid into it (ether).

It appears that the wax choke is working properly, the rod is in, and will come out when heated with a heat gun.

I redid the carb this morning following the tutorial in the faq’s ...going to reassemble and see what happens. I will post an update later

Thanks,
Joe

 

[bertsmobile1]

A single backfire or sudden stop from hitting a rock , stump etc will shear the key ( safety feature ) and the engine will stop.

 

[joeangi]

Ok, I have been working on it all morning....no luck.

Carb appears to be fine, but spark plug does not really seem wet after repeated pulls. I even blew air up into the tank in case there was something gunking up in there. Nice fuel flow from the line.

I have removed the engine cover and the crank nut, but my flywheel pullers are too small. I can borrow some tonight at work. I can see the key wedged in the crank, but that does not mean it is in the slot. It did go away running...but not sure of any backfires. I will report back.

I am going to try and attach pictures, take a look and see if anything looks out of whack.

Thanks,
Joe View attachment 43569View attachment 43570View attachment 43571View attachment 43572View attachment 43573

 

[bertsmobile1]

Put the nut / bolt back on but short 1 thread from being finger tight
Put a wrecking bar under the flywheel in a position where you could lever it off
Put a lot of weight on the bar then smack the flywheel nut/bolt, the flywheel should pop free of the taper.
Did you try blowing through the carb to verify it is atomizing the fuel & passing it through to the engine like I asked ?

 

[joeangi]

Didn't really understand blowing the air through....did you just want me to blow air through the carb, and see if it atomizes? choke and throttle plate open, but connected to the gas line?

Joe

 

[bertsmobile1]

Didn't really understand blowing the air through....did you just want me to blow air through the carb, and see if it atomizes? choke and throttle plate open, but connected to the gas line?

Joe

Exactly.
If the carb is atomizing fuel then that eliminates it from the no start problem provided the choke closes fully.
It is a process of elimination
Once everything that IS working properly all you are left with is what is not working.
BEcause we all have a slightly different approach & some one was already assisting you I did not ask you to follow my usual route, but rather to carry on with what they had you doing.

 

[joeangi]

I blew air through the carb this morning, and it did indeed atomize the fuel. I guess we can rule that out.

I was thinking that the reason the ether wants to rip your arm off is because it is altering the ignition timing due to its increased combustability if that is a word??

 

[tadawson]

That pretty much leaves timing or a stuck valve . . . I don't recall . . . have you checked compression? Easier to pull the valve cover than the flywheel, and I can see a valve binding in storage, but not a timing shift . . .