HRU216K2 Rebuild

[neevo]

Great info (exactly why I joined here so I could find some experts), really appreciate you helping me out.

Funny you mention the nylocks, I could put them back on with my fingers, so I’ll take them off and replace them. Cheap insurance as I don’t want one of them loosening themselves off. Have a torque wrench (small one), so I’ll find the right torque and do it properly.

I don’t have the square filter, I have a elongated round one with paper inside and foam on the outside. Also has a snorkel on handlebars but I’ve noticed foam part of filter is already pretty clogged. I oiled it lightly.

Should I remove the foam and clean regularly? What’s the prefilter you’re referring to? Would that go in the snorkel on the handlebars?

I don’t cut wet grass so no issues there.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Don't oil the foam they go on dry.
Take it off, wash it in shampoo & return it when dry.
The foam is the prefilter and should be fitted DRY.
Get some extra ones so you always have a clean one on hand.
With a snorkel the filters should go about 5 or more years unless the tube has a leak in it.
Nut tension is 38 NM and correct, if you can thread them on past the insert by hand, they are beyond their useful service life.
38 nm is nowhere near tight enough to stop the nuts loosening in service and f done up tight enougn to stop loosening, they will be too tight to allow the blade to swing.

 

[neevo]

Gotcha!

You wouldn’t have any idea how the throttle control plate should be setup too would you? Mine was bent when I got it and so I straightened it out but when I was looking at a new 216M2 in the shop yesterday it had the same setup but operated differently.

The difference is how the choke engages. On mine I have 2 levers that rub against each other as the choke engages. On the new one in the shop this acts as a stop at the end of the choke action (doesn’t rub).

Photos:

This is stop position:

Low speed throttle position. The one in the shop had the spring with no slack. Mine has slack:

Full throttle position. I set this so that the choke mechanism just starts to engage. Red circle shows that the throttle stop is a long way from engaging. Yellow circle shows the lower arm of the choke mechanism is already engaging the throttle arm:

Choke at full. Choke butterfly is fully engaged in the carb but the choke stop (yellow) isn’t anywhere close to engaging the arm.

Maybe I’m over thinking it as the mower seems to run fine and should cut much better now the blades are on the right way!

The mower always fires first time and just on full throttle. Haven’t needed to use choke at all.

Pre filter has been removed, cleaned and put back. Bit damp so I’ll be dry easily by end of the day.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Something there is wrong there but I can not bring the correct set up to mind.
If that cable slides through the outer easily then it is the wrong cable or you are missing an adjuster at the handlebar end.
That cable build up water in the dip between the engine & handlebars and naturally rusts solid.
I replace a lot of them.
Lube it with Tri-Flow ( or similar ) from a push bike shop. Do not use WD 40 or oil as some of them are nylon linned and WD 40 softens the nylon.
Not enough stretch in the governor spring at full throttle which is why it seems to be running slow.

 

[neevo]

I think the cables fine. It’s old I suspect but seems like the original one. It has the adjuster at the handlebars and catches perfectly in the lower cable holder.

Somethings not right with it. I’ll see how it cuts next time. If it doesn’t struggle I’ll forget it, if it continues to have issues I’ll need to revisit again.