With the engine running full throttle connect the red lead to the B+ terminal of the regulator, and ...
Just trying to make sure you are actually getting battery voltage to the regulator and not just creating a circuit that may not be there, and making sure the regulator is grounded.
B terminal on the rectifier to - terminal on the battery.
+ terminal on the battery to the case of the rectifier
B to rectifier case.
The rectifier needs to be grounded to the mower to complete a circuit.
Same as what Ilengine said
You need to read between the + terminal on the rectifier to the negative terminal on the battery and ...
If the ground is bad the power terminal on the rectifier will still read 13V between it an the batteryBut if there is no ground then there is no circuit so the amps are sitting there all dressed up with nowhere to go.
Test results show that the regulator is grounded but you are not getting power from the battery to the B+ terminal of the regulator therefore it won't charge. Try running a temporary wire 16 gauge or larger from the B+ terminal to the positive post of the battery and see what what voltage you get when testing the charge at the battery terminals.
Try running a temporary wire 16 gauge or larger from the B+ terminal to the positive post of the battery and see what what voltage you get when testing the charge at the battery terminals.
Test results show that the regulator is grounded but you are not getting power from the battery to the B+ terminal of the regulator therefore it won't charge. Try running a temporary wire 16 gauge or larger from the B+ terminal to the positive post of the battery and see what what voltage you get when testing the charge at the battery terminals.
If trying to connect to the battery with the engine running could produce sparks since there is the potential for about 15 amps. If trying to connect with the engine off and getting sparks would indicate a short most likely the regulator shorted to ground, but some regulator are only half wave rectified so a shorted stator could also be an issue.
Connecting to + battery terminal from regulator/rectifier B+ post with the engine OFF creates NO sparks at all.
So what do you suggest I might do now?
Since you are NOT getting sparks with the engine off, go ahead and make the connections between the regulator B+ and the positive of the battery, and then start the mower and check the voltage at the battery to see what you get.
Since you are NOT getting sparks with the engine off, go ahead and make the connections between the regulator B+ and the positive of the battery, and then start the mower and check the voltage at the battery to see what you get...
You can leave it connected to the battery, just don't let the end that was connected to the B+ terminal contact anything metal and cause a short. Also it looks like the purple charge wire should be directly connected to the positive side of the battery. But there appears to be a 20 amp fuse in that wire. If that fuse(small chance) is blow or corroded(larger chance and possibly melted fuse holder) will cause the issues that you are having with the charging system.
This bypass wire is just replacing the purple wire in the diagram. If you get the temporary wire connected and it then charges then we know that the problem is in the purple wire. And you can go ahead and use your temporary wire as the direct replacement for the purple wire.
there appears to be a 20 amp fuse in that wire. If that fuse(small chance) is blow or corroded(larger chance and possibly melted fuse holder) will cause the issues that you are having with the charging system.
This bypass wire is just replacing the purple wire in the diagram. If you get the temporary wire connected and it then charges then we know that the problem is in the purple wire. And you can go ahead and use your temporary wire as the direct replacement for the purple wire.
Score another win for yourself! I’d already tried two new regulators (1 Amazon, 1 OEM) and was getting -2v on the B+ to battery -.With the engine running full throttle connect the red lead to the B+ terminal of the regulator, and the black lead to the negative post of the battery. What is the voltage. Should read battery voltage. Now mow the red lead to the metal housing of the regulator while still keeping the black lead on the negative post what is the voltage. Any voltage over a about 1 volt indicated bad ground to the regulator and battery voltage would mean no regulator ground.
Just trying to make sure you are actually getting battery voltage to the regulator and not just creating a circuit that may not be there, and making sure the regulator is grounded.
Now, figure out WHY it happened. You are not done yet.It was in fact that 20 amp fuse -- blown to smithereens. Replaced it and my battery charges at 14v with everything wired back to factory settings.
The thread with the fuse issue was answered in 2019 and the wiring diagram for that issue was post 18. And the thread was brought back from the dead a few days ago with a repair of a regulator grounding issue from member @JNaughton using the testing that I posted in 2019.What ILengine is saying in post 9 is :
It appears that the B+ post on the regulator terminal does not have a complete circuit to the B+ post on the battery.
When using the jumper wire you might consider installing a fuse of around 10-15 amps in the jumper wire.
Let us know what voltage measurements you get???????????
Sometimes this circuit is fused. Sometimes it goes through the ignition switch.
With a complete model number of your mower we might can find a wiring diagram?