How to test B&S fuel pump?

[TobyU]

Well, if your choke isn't closing it certainly won't start unless you give it some external fuel like you did before. However, even if the joke isn't working properly once you get it started with external fuel it should stay running on its own no problem. Otherwise you have a restricted or at least partially restricted jet or jets in your carburetor.

The most interesting part of your post I saw was the fact that you said you overhauled an engine at 140 hours.
Do you mean the entire engine or just the carburetor? The only way one of these should possibly need an overhaul and only 140 hours is if it was one of the very first gen Briggs v-twins that had the yellow typically or the other air filter cover that had a clip or clips holding it on.
That thing was known to bypass the air filter and let dirt go down the D shaped hole into the intake and they were wiping out the rings at under 100 hours.
It's funny how this happened a lot on the twins without proper air filtration but the singles can run for years even with no air filter on them and not suffer a similar problem!
They changed it once and then they changed it again but you always want to inspect these air filters and the D shaped hole that's actually the intake to make sure there's no tan colored, dust or dirt going down in there. It's usually pretty obvious when it happens. If you ever see that you must fix the air filter housing immediately even if you have to put some weather stripping in there so it seals up or even if you have to use some RTV to literally glue your air filter on both sides so it can't slip around and go down the intake.
With exception of this occurrence which happened way back with the early design when these were new and most all have been fixed or junked by now, even though people love to be Briggs & Stratton detractors and haters, these engines can and do run a long time and many, many more hours than that.
Actually, typically the machine falls apart around them and they are scrapped for the need of a simple repair or for a no start but I have seen a good handful of these with 800, 900, and 1200 hours.
Most of them get discarded with the machine they're on under 400 and many between 200 and 300 but those engines have tons of life left in them.
The engines do have a problem with push rods bending and that's usually cause from valve guides slipping due to being overheated because no one has pulled the shroud off and removed all the debris, nesting material, grass, or grease and grime from the cooling fins on one of the heads.
You must always keep these full of oil too. I prefer to keep them at the full mark at a minimum and actually prefer to keep them about a 16th to even 1/8 of an inch above the full mark. These things will snap around in a heartbeat when they get down slightly below the add mark.

 

[Gord Baker]

I have a John Deere D140 with a 22 hp V Twin B&S. I just overhauled it, has 140 hours on it. Before overhauling it I had to prime it with gas to get it started, figured it was because of low vacuum. I started it yesterday for first time since the overhaul. Figured it was from setting for three months. I tried restarting it after a couple hours and it wouldn't start. Pulled the carb line and nothing came out. I'm assuming the pump is bad. I see a lot of pumps online, where's the best place to buy one?

Bob

An engine with only 140 hours should not need overhauling. Check auto fuel shutoff solenoid if it has one.

 

[unioncreek]

No, it does stay running, runs very good. I believe the manufacture date was 2012, mower is a 2017 and it's the original motor. The air cleaner cover has four bolts that hold it down. When I torn it down the ring end gap was approximately 0.100". When I received the new rings, the old ones were only 2/3 as wide.

Bob

 

[Gord Baker]

No, it does stay running, runs very good. I believe the manufacture date was 2012, mower is a 2017 and it's the original motor. The air cleaner cover has four bolts that hold it down. When I torn it down the ring end gap was approximately 0.100". When I received the new rings, the old ones were only 2/3 as wide.

Bob

The fuel shut off solenoid may take some vibration to open. You should be able to hear it click. Butt gap is usually 0.004" per inch of bore. If rings were 2/3 of the old ones you have the wrong rings.

 

[unioncreek]

The old rings were about 2/3 the width of the new ones. I checked endgap of the new rings and they were correct according to the service manual.

Bob

 

[TobyU]

No, it does stay running, runs very good. I believe the manufacture date was 2012, mower is a 2017 and it's the original motor. The air cleaner cover has four bolts that hold it down. When I torn it down the ring end gap was approximately 0.100". When I received the new rings, the old ones were only 2/3 as wide.

Bob

I'm just letting you know for future reference that these engines don't need rebuilt or overhauled. It doesn't matter what the rings look like when you pulled it apart etc as most of these things the cylinder bore looks brand new and with even cross hatching still showing no matter when you pull them apart.
They are low performance little turds so they are very forgiving and they just keep on running and running.
I just don't want you to think that because you overhauled one now and had good results with it that that's something you should do or tell other people to do in the future because these things are rarely taken apart to have any rebuilding or anything else done to them.
Only occasionally, can one be run extremely hot or something but again as I mentioned before that usually takes care of itself and it slips a valve guide and it stops running at least on one cylinder but it's possible to lose your tension on your rings by overheating and glaze up the cylinders a little bit to where someone could notice improvement bye holding it with a glaze breaker and slapping a new set of rings on there but 99.5% of times out of 100 it's just unneeded work.
The four bolts on the cover almost always seals off properly and you will have no dirt looking dust on the intake D hole and dirt ingestion is the only way I can see one of these engines needing anything done to them at 140 hours.
And trust me, I'm not saying they're high quality or anything like that or well put together. They are not! I'm simply saying that the tolerances are so and they have such low compression ratio to start with something like 7 to 1 which is an absolute joke and they, like their other little push more counterparts don't even close the intake valve early enough to even think it would build enough compression on the compression stroke to even run unlike an automobile engine does, that they're just low performance turds and they just keep running just fine.
Most of the time the only people that are looking to do any internal work on a V-Twin is someone who snapped a ride because it was run low on oil.
They will often tackle the job and tear it apart but more times than not they never put it back together because it's not a cost-effective repair.
Even if you know how to do the work and don't have to pay for any labor, typically the two parts and the base gasket you need, which just a couple years ago only started coming from Briggs as only a kit with the overpriced bolts for $32 instead of $10.50, it just makes the repair with parts alone not worth it.
Others, insist on "winning" or saving money but what they don't realize that they would be better off and have more money in their pocket if they would just get on Craigslist or marketplace and buy them a mower with a similar engine whether it's running or not and clean out the carb etc on that one and transplant it as they would have a mower in operation faster and then they could sell the transmission and the other parts and the frame from the mower they have purchased actually for more money than they paid for the non-running mower but regardless they would have a running mower faster and they would have more money in their pocket at the end of the day then trying to fix one that snapped a rod which is where most people start from on those.
We are all entitled to do things our own little special way or however we choose to do it and I often am criticize but others because I refuse to replace parts most of the time. Others say wouldn't it be a lot faster just to stock new carburetors throw it on there and move on to the next one? Maybe but I hate new carburetors! I think it's pointless to replace a perfectly good carburetor just because it needs cleaned.
So I always fix what's there but I'm very efficient and quick at it and can do it faster than anyone can swap the carburetor out and I absolutely guarantee that for a fact.
Every time I watch one of these stupid YouTube videos they either do things the wrong way or the hard way..
Watched one on snowblower the other day about taking the carburetor off and replacing it with one from amazon. And the time it took him to do it even from the minutes on the video which might have been edited, and actually longer, I could have cleaned out at least two snow blower carburetors on the same model if not three and had them running perfectly with zero cost in parts.
So yeah, we're all a little weird but my weird way is the absolute cheapest way and I've adapted it to be the fastest way too.
But it's hard to convince me that any Briggs & Stratton engine like that needed an overhaul or needed rings or anything else too run just fine and cut your grass just fine.
I get calls all the time from people and see post all the time specifically on the single overhead valve Briggs where they say the engines were out or the engine shot or the rings are shot when they're wrong on all accounts. They actually just have a blown head gasket which isn't really a blown head gasket well it was a burnt and eroded away gasket and then it became blown as there was no gasket there so the compression blew through where the gasket was supposed to be.
But people think a whole lot of things and that a whole lot of things will do a lot of other things when that's not necessarily true.

 

[unioncreek]

The mower was using one quart of oil every couple of hours. Head gaskets were changed to this spring to see if that corrected the oil consumption. Didnt stop it. One cylinder had 100% air lose with a leakdown test. It warranted an overhaul. It was either that or buy a new engine.

 

[TobyU]

The mower was using one quart of oil every couple of hours. Head gaskets were changed to this spring to see if that corrected the oil consumption. Didnt stop it. One cylinder had 100% air lose with a leakdown test. It warranted an overhaul. It was either that or buy a new engine.

Rare but it happens. Even though you have the new design 4 bolt air filter housing, I would make sure dirt is not bypassing and getting the inside of the D hole intake coated with tan dust dirt.
That's the most likely way one with only140 hrs could show those issues.
Unless it was never right from factory, or maybe ran low on oil, or severely overheated, or ran on some really bad oil or maybe fully synthetic put in right when it was new with no break in on standard oil.
It should do best on SAE 30 or HD 30 oil.
Also, when you finish mowing, do you turn off blades and slow engine down to idle speed as you ride it back to put it away?

 

[unioncreek]

It's possible dust could have gotten in. I change the filter every year and check the filter every weeks when I check them oil. When I finish mowing I shut the deck off, drive to my barn and let it idle for a few minutes until it cools down.

Bob

 

[TobyU]

It's possible dust could have gotten in. I change the filter every year and check the filter every weeks when I check them oil. When I finish mowing I shut the deck off, drive to my barn and let it idle for a few minutes until it cools down.

Bob

Just don't idle it down before you drive it to barn. If it's mowing or moving...keep it at full speed.
Ok to idle for a few seconds before you shut off switch but no reason to do over 10-30 seconds or so.
I don't even check an air filter but maybe 1-2 times a year! Might wear the bolts out and cause a leak. Lol
I will try to find pics of dirt in the intake from leaky filter.