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How to test B&S fuel pump?
#1
U
unioncreek
U
unioncreek
I have a John Deere D140 with a 22 hp V Twin B&S. I just overhauled it, has 140 hours on it. Before overhauling it I had to prime it with gas to get it started, figured it was because of low vacuum. I started it yesterday for first time since the overhaul. Figured it was from setting for three months. I tried restarting it after a couple hours and it wouldn't start. Pulled the carb line and nothing came out. I'm assuming the pump is bad. I see a lot of pumps online, where's the best place to buy one?
Bob
Bob
#3
StarTech
StarTech
Usually you just put the pickup line in a container of fuel and the have the out flow line off and just crank the engine. If you get a good strong impulse of fuel the pump is working usually. But I have seen them not pump once connected.
But as Bert mention a block fuel line from the tank or one that the tank pickup is clogged or broken off can cause a no fuel flow problem. Trash in the tank can block the fuel pickup intermittently too like the Yellow Jacket and Honey Bee did here on one JD mower. They would get suck up, block the fuel flow, and then when the engine wasn't running unblock the pickup. It just kept cycling this way until I saw them in the tank.
One other thing double the fuel pump connections as they can connected up in the wrong order.
But as Bert mention a block fuel line from the tank or one that the tank pickup is clogged or broken off can cause a no fuel flow problem. Trash in the tank can block the fuel pickup intermittently too like the Yellow Jacket and Honey Bee did here on one JD mower. They would get suck up, block the fuel flow, and then when the engine wasn't running unblock the pickup. It just kept cycling this way until I saw them in the tank.
One other thing double the fuel pump connections as they can connected up in the wrong order.
#5
U
unioncreek
U
unioncreek
Had a few minutes today to check the fuel pump. Removed the fuel line from the pump to the carb and cranked it over. It pumped a pretty good flow of fuel. Tried starting mower and it wouldn't start. Removed the air cleaner cover and poured a little gas in, choked it and it sorted right up and ran good. Let it set for five minutes and it would not start. Pour some gas in and it started right up.
Going to take the carb off and clean it to see if anything is plugged.
Bob
Going to take the carb off and clean it to see if anything is plugged.
Bob
#6
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
For fuel to get into your carb the float valve has to open.
These have been known to get gummy and stick closed
The pump only puts out 5 to 7 psi which is not very much
The other thing that has to happen is the air in the bowl has to get out
To do this the bowl has a vent hole which because of EPA regulations is not on the engine side of he carb often near or in the mounting flange.
Very rarely ( hey but you are a special case arn't you ) this hole blocks up so again no fuel flow .
These have been known to get gummy and stick closed
The pump only puts out 5 to 7 psi which is not very much
The other thing that has to happen is the air in the bowl has to get out
To do this the bowl has a vent hole which because of EPA regulations is not on the engine side of he carb often near or in the mounting flange.
Very rarely ( hey but you are a special case arn't you ) this hole blocks up so again no fuel flow .
#7
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
The vacuum pumps used on Briggs etc are a little closer to 1.5 psi and not over 3.For fuel to get into your carb the float valve has to open.
These have been known to get gummy and stick closed
The pump only puts out 5 to 7 psi which is not very much
The other thing that has to happen is the air in the bowl has to get out
To do this the bowl has a vent hole which because of EPA regulations is not on the engine side of he carb often near or in the mounting flange.
Very rarely ( hey but you are a special case arn't you ) this hole blocks up so again no fuel flow .
#8
U
unioncreek
U
unioncreek
Went up and looked at it again. I noticed the choke linkage was not moving. So, I pushed down in the lever attached to the chick.rod and it started right up. It's not hooked up right and the pictures I took when taking everything apart don't show how the choke is hooked up. Where can I find some pics of the choke area. It's a B&S 22 hp V Twin model 407777- 0274-G5.
Bob
Bob
#9
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
see if this looks right
#10
U
unioncreek
U
unioncreek
I found a YouTube clip late this afternoon and was able to figure it out. Started right up. It's going to be nice having riding mower again that doesn't use a quart of oil every time I mow the lawn.
Thanks for all the help.
Bob
Thanks for all the help.
Bob
#11
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
Well, if your choke isn't closing it certainly won't start unless you give it some external fuel like you did before. However, even if the joke isn't working properly once you get it started with external fuel it should stay running on its own no problem. Otherwise you have a restricted or at least partially restricted jet or jets in your carburetor.
The most interesting part of your post I saw was the fact that you said you overhauled an engine at 140 hours.
Do you mean the entire engine or just the carburetor? The only way one of these should possibly need an overhaul and only 140 hours is if it was one of the very first gen Briggs v-twins that had the yellow typically or the other air filter cover that had a clip or clips holding it on.
That thing was known to bypass the air filter and let dirt go down the D shaped hole into the intake and they were wiping out the rings at under 100 hours.
It's funny how this happened a lot on the twins without proper air filtration but the singles can run for years even with no air filter on them and not suffer a similar problem!
They changed it once and then they changed it again but you always want to inspect these air filters and the D shaped hole that's actually the intake to make sure there's no tan colored, dust or dirt going down in there. It's usually pretty obvious when it happens. If you ever see that you must fix the air filter housing immediately even if you have to put some weather stripping in there so it seals up or even if you have to use some RTV to literally glue your air filter on both sides so it can't slip around and go down the intake.
With exception of this occurrence which happened way back with the early design when these were new and most all have been fixed or junked by now, even though people love to be Briggs & Stratton detractors and haters, these engines can and do run a long time and many, many more hours than that.
Actually, typically the machine falls apart around them and they are scrapped for the need of a simple repair or for a no start but I have seen a good handful of these with 800, 900, and 1200 hours.
Most of them get discarded with the machine they're on under 400 and many between 200 and 300 but those engines have tons of life left in them.
The engines do have a problem with push rods bending and that's usually cause from valve guides slipping due to being overheated because no one has pulled the shroud off and removed all the debris, nesting material, grass, or grease and grime from the cooling fins on one of the heads.
You must always keep these full of oil too. I prefer to keep them at the full mark at a minimum and actually prefer to keep them about a 16th to even 1/8 of an inch above the full mark. These things will snap around in a heartbeat when they get down slightly below the add mark.
The most interesting part of your post I saw was the fact that you said you overhauled an engine at 140 hours.
Do you mean the entire engine or just the carburetor? The only way one of these should possibly need an overhaul and only 140 hours is if it was one of the very first gen Briggs v-twins that had the yellow typically or the other air filter cover that had a clip or clips holding it on.
That thing was known to bypass the air filter and let dirt go down the D shaped hole into the intake and they were wiping out the rings at under 100 hours.
It's funny how this happened a lot on the twins without proper air filtration but the singles can run for years even with no air filter on them and not suffer a similar problem!
They changed it once and then they changed it again but you always want to inspect these air filters and the D shaped hole that's actually the intake to make sure there's no tan colored, dust or dirt going down in there. It's usually pretty obvious when it happens. If you ever see that you must fix the air filter housing immediately even if you have to put some weather stripping in there so it seals up or even if you have to use some RTV to literally glue your air filter on both sides so it can't slip around and go down the intake.
With exception of this occurrence which happened way back with the early design when these were new and most all have been fixed or junked by now, even though people love to be Briggs & Stratton detractors and haters, these engines can and do run a long time and many, many more hours than that.
Actually, typically the machine falls apart around them and they are scrapped for the need of a simple repair or for a no start but I have seen a good handful of these with 800, 900, and 1200 hours.
Most of them get discarded with the machine they're on under 400 and many between 200 and 300 but those engines have tons of life left in them.
The engines do have a problem with push rods bending and that's usually cause from valve guides slipping due to being overheated because no one has pulled the shroud off and removed all the debris, nesting material, grass, or grease and grime from the cooling fins on one of the heads.
You must always keep these full of oil too. I prefer to keep them at the full mark at a minimum and actually prefer to keep them about a 16th to even 1/8 of an inch above the full mark. These things will snap around in a heartbeat when they get down slightly below the add mark.
#12
G
Gord Baker
G
Gord Baker
An engine with only 140 hours should not need overhauling. Check auto fuel shutoff solenoid if it has one.I have a John Deere D140 with a 22 hp V Twin B&S. I just overhauled it, has 140 hours on it. Before overhauling it I had to prime it with gas to get it started, figured it was because of low vacuum. I started it yesterday for first time since the overhaul. Figured it was from setting for three months. I tried restarting it after a couple hours and it wouldn't start. Pulled the carb line and nothing came out. I'm assuming the pump is bad. I see a lot of pumps online, where's the best place to buy one?
Bob
#13
U
unioncreek
U
unioncreek
No, it does stay running, runs very good. I believe the manufacture date was 2012, mower is a 2017 and it's the original motor. The air cleaner cover has four bolts that hold it down. When I torn it down the ring end gap was approximately 0.100". When I received the new rings, the old ones were only 2/3 as wide.
Bob
Bob
#14
G
Gord Baker
G
Gord Baker
The fuel shut off solenoid may take some vibration to open. You should be able to hear it click. Butt gap is usually 0.004" per inch of bore. If rings were 2/3 of the old ones you have the wrong rings.No, it does stay running, runs very good. I believe the manufacture date was 2012, mower is a 2017 and it's the original motor. The air cleaner cover has four bolts that hold it down. When I torn it down the ring end gap was approximately 0.100". When I received the new rings, the old ones were only 2/3 as wide.
Bob
#15
U
unioncreek
U
unioncreek
The old rings were about 2/3 the width of the new ones. I checked endgap of the new rings and they were correct according to the service manual.
Bob
Bob
#16
T
TobyU
They are low performance little turds so they are very forgiving and they just keep on running and running.
I just don't want you to think that because you overhauled one now and had good results with it that that's something you should do or tell other people to do in the future because these things are rarely taken apart to have any rebuilding or anything else done to them.
Only occasionally, can one be run extremely hot or something but again as I mentioned before that usually takes care of itself and it slips a valve guide and it stops running at least on one cylinder but it's possible to lose your tension on your rings by overheating and glaze up the cylinders a little bit to where someone could notice improvement bye holding it with a glaze breaker and slapping a new set of rings on there but 99.5% of times out of 100 it's just unneeded work.
The four bolts on the cover almost always seals off properly and you will have no dirt looking dust on the intake D hole and dirt ingestion is the only way I can see one of these engines needing anything done to them at 140 hours.
And trust me, I'm not saying they're high quality or anything like that or well put together. They are not! I'm simply saying that the tolerances are so and they have such low compression ratio to start with something like 7 to 1 which is an absolute joke and they, like their other little push more counterparts don't even close the intake valve early enough to even think it would build enough compression on the compression stroke to even run unlike an automobile engine does, that they're just low performance turds and they just keep running just fine.
Most of the time the only people that are looking to do any internal work on a V-Twin is someone who snapped a ride because it was run low on oil.
They will often tackle the job and tear it apart but more times than not they never put it back together because it's not a cost-effective repair.
Even if you know how to do the work and don't have to pay for any labor, typically the two parts and the base gasket you need, which just a couple years ago only started coming from Briggs as only a kit with the overpriced bolts for $32 instead of $10.50, it just makes the repair with parts alone not worth it.
Others, insist on "winning" or saving money but what they don't realize that they would be better off and have more money in their pocket if they would just get on Craigslist or marketplace and buy them a mower with a similar engine whether it's running or not and clean out the carb etc on that one and transplant it as they would have a mower in operation faster and then they could sell the transmission and the other parts and the frame from the mower they have purchased actually for more money than they paid for the non-running mower but regardless they would have a running mower faster and they would have more money in their pocket at the end of the day then trying to fix one that snapped a rod which is where most people start from on those.
We are all entitled to do things our own little special way or however we choose to do it and I often am criticize but others because I refuse to replace parts most of the time. Others say wouldn't it be a lot faster just to stock new carburetors throw it on there and move on to the next one? Maybe but I hate new carburetors! I think it's pointless to replace a perfectly good carburetor just because it needs cleaned.
So I always fix what's there but I'm very efficient and quick at it and can do it faster than anyone can swap the carburetor out and I absolutely guarantee that for a fact.
Every time I watch one of these stupid YouTube videos they either do things the wrong way or the hard way..
Watched one on snowblower the other day about taking the carburetor off and replacing it with one from amazon. And the time it took him to do it even from the minutes on the video which might have been edited, and actually longer, I could have cleaned out at least two snow blower carburetors on the same model if not three and had them running perfectly with zero cost in parts.
So yeah, we're all a little weird but my weird way is the absolute cheapest way and I've adapted it to be the fastest way too.
But it's hard to convince me that any Briggs & Stratton engine like that needed an overhaul or needed rings or anything else too run just fine and cut your grass just fine.
I get calls all the time from people and see post all the time specifically on the single overhead valve Briggs where they say the engines were out or the engine shot or the rings are shot when they're wrong on all accounts. They actually just have a blown head gasket which isn't really a blown head gasket well it was a burnt and eroded away gasket and then it became blown as there was no gasket there so the compression blew through where the gasket was supposed to be.
But people think a whole lot of things and that a whole lot of things will do a lot of other things when that's not necessarily true.
T
TobyU
I'm just letting you know for future reference that these engines don't need rebuilt or overhauled. It doesn't matter what the rings look like when you pulled it apart etc as most of these things the cylinder bore looks brand new and with even cross hatching still showing no matter when you pull them apart.No, it does stay running, runs very good. I believe the manufacture date was 2012, mower is a 2017 and it's the original motor. The air cleaner cover has four bolts that hold it down. When I torn it down the ring end gap was approximately 0.100". When I received the new rings, the old ones were only 2/3 as wide.
Bob
They are low performance little turds so they are very forgiving and they just keep on running and running.
I just don't want you to think that because you overhauled one now and had good results with it that that's something you should do or tell other people to do in the future because these things are rarely taken apart to have any rebuilding or anything else done to them.
Only occasionally, can one be run extremely hot or something but again as I mentioned before that usually takes care of itself and it slips a valve guide and it stops running at least on one cylinder but it's possible to lose your tension on your rings by overheating and glaze up the cylinders a little bit to where someone could notice improvement bye holding it with a glaze breaker and slapping a new set of rings on there but 99.5% of times out of 100 it's just unneeded work.
The four bolts on the cover almost always seals off properly and you will have no dirt looking dust on the intake D hole and dirt ingestion is the only way I can see one of these engines needing anything done to them at 140 hours.
And trust me, I'm not saying they're high quality or anything like that or well put together. They are not! I'm simply saying that the tolerances are so and they have such low compression ratio to start with something like 7 to 1 which is an absolute joke and they, like their other little push more counterparts don't even close the intake valve early enough to even think it would build enough compression on the compression stroke to even run unlike an automobile engine does, that they're just low performance turds and they just keep running just fine.
Most of the time the only people that are looking to do any internal work on a V-Twin is someone who snapped a ride because it was run low on oil.
They will often tackle the job and tear it apart but more times than not they never put it back together because it's not a cost-effective repair.
Even if you know how to do the work and don't have to pay for any labor, typically the two parts and the base gasket you need, which just a couple years ago only started coming from Briggs as only a kit with the overpriced bolts for $32 instead of $10.50, it just makes the repair with parts alone not worth it.
Others, insist on "winning" or saving money but what they don't realize that they would be better off and have more money in their pocket if they would just get on Craigslist or marketplace and buy them a mower with a similar engine whether it's running or not and clean out the carb etc on that one and transplant it as they would have a mower in operation faster and then they could sell the transmission and the other parts and the frame from the mower they have purchased actually for more money than they paid for the non-running mower but regardless they would have a running mower faster and they would have more money in their pocket at the end of the day then trying to fix one that snapped a rod which is where most people start from on those.
We are all entitled to do things our own little special way or however we choose to do it and I often am criticize but others because I refuse to replace parts most of the time. Others say wouldn't it be a lot faster just to stock new carburetors throw it on there and move on to the next one? Maybe but I hate new carburetors! I think it's pointless to replace a perfectly good carburetor just because it needs cleaned.
So I always fix what's there but I'm very efficient and quick at it and can do it faster than anyone can swap the carburetor out and I absolutely guarantee that for a fact.
Every time I watch one of these stupid YouTube videos they either do things the wrong way or the hard way..
Watched one on snowblower the other day about taking the carburetor off and replacing it with one from amazon. And the time it took him to do it even from the minutes on the video which might have been edited, and actually longer, I could have cleaned out at least two snow blower carburetors on the same model if not three and had them running perfectly with zero cost in parts.
So yeah, we're all a little weird but my weird way is the absolute cheapest way and I've adapted it to be the fastest way too.
But it's hard to convince me that any Briggs & Stratton engine like that needed an overhaul or needed rings or anything else too run just fine and cut your grass just fine.
I get calls all the time from people and see post all the time specifically on the single overhead valve Briggs where they say the engines were out or the engine shot or the rings are shot when they're wrong on all accounts. They actually just have a blown head gasket which isn't really a blown head gasket well it was a burnt and eroded away gasket and then it became blown as there was no gasket there so the compression blew through where the gasket was supposed to be.
But people think a whole lot of things and that a whole lot of things will do a lot of other things when that's not necessarily true.
#17
U
unioncreek
U
unioncreek
The mower was using one quart of oil every couple of hours. Head gaskets were changed to this spring to see if that corrected the oil consumption. Didnt stop it. One cylinder had 100% air lose with a leakdown test. It warranted an overhaul. It was either that or buy a new engine.
#18
T
TobyU
That's the most likely way one with only140 hrs could show those issues.
Unless it was never right from factory, or maybe ran low on oil, or severely overheated, or ran on some really bad oil or maybe fully synthetic put in right when it was new with no break in on standard oil.
It should do best on SAE 30 or HD 30 oil.
Also, when you finish mowing, do you turn off blades and slow engine down to idle speed as you ride it back to put it away?
T
TobyU
Rare but it happens. Even though you have the new design 4 bolt air filter housing, I would make sure dirt is not bypassing and getting the inside of the D hole intake coated with tan dust dirt.The mower was using one quart of oil every couple of hours. Head gaskets were changed to this spring to see if that corrected the oil consumption. Didnt stop it. One cylinder had 100% air lose with a leakdown test. It warranted an overhaul. It was either that or buy a new engine.
That's the most likely way one with only140 hrs could show those issues.
Unless it was never right from factory, or maybe ran low on oil, or severely overheated, or ran on some really bad oil or maybe fully synthetic put in right when it was new with no break in on standard oil.
It should do best on SAE 30 or HD 30 oil.
Also, when you finish mowing, do you turn off blades and slow engine down to idle speed as you ride it back to put it away?
#19
U
unioncreek
U
unioncreek
It's possible dust could have gotten in. I change the filter every year and check the filter every weeks when I check them oil. When I finish mowing I shut the deck off, drive to my barn and let it idle for a few minutes until it cools down.
Bob
Bob
#20
T
TobyU
Ok to idle for a few seconds before you shut off switch but no reason to do over 10-30 seconds or so.
I don't even check an air filter but maybe 1-2 times a year! Might wear the bolts out and cause a leak. Lol
I will try to find pics of dirt in the intake from leaky filter.
T
TobyU
Just don't idle it down before you drive it to barn. If it's mowing or moving...keep it at full speed.It's possible dust could have gotten in. I change the filter every year and check the filter every weeks when I check them oil. When I finish mowing I shut the deck off, drive to my barn and let it idle for a few minutes until it cools down.
Bob
Ok to idle for a few seconds before you shut off switch but no reason to do over 10-30 seconds or so.
I don't even check an air filter but maybe 1-2 times a year! Might wear the bolts out and cause a leak. Lol
I will try to find pics of dirt in the intake from leaky filter.
#21
S
Sympolman
They are common to fail and develop a break where they fit into the valve cover. The pump is driven off internal pressure which actuates the diaphragm in the pump. Also, check the vent cap on your fuel tank cap if there is one or see how the tank vents.
S
Sympolman
Check the vacuum line going from the valve cover to the fuel pump. Here is what they look like; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09JMZ6JM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1I have a John Deere D140 with a 22 hp V Twin B&S. I just overhauled it, has 140 hours on it. Before overhauling it I had to prime it with gas to get it started, figured it was because of low vacuum. I started it yesterday for first time since the overhaul. Figured it was from setting for three months. I tried restarting it after a couple hours and it wouldn't start. Pulled the carb line and nothing came out. I'm assuming the pump is bad. I see a lot of pumps online, where's the best place to buy one?
Bob
They are common to fail and develop a break where they fit into the valve cover. The pump is driven off internal pressure which actuates the diaphragm in the pump. Also, check the vent cap on your fuel tank cap if there is one or see how the tank vents.
#22
R
RevB
R
RevB
Not sure about the D140 but the dumbasses at Deere just installed a slant cut pickup line in the tank on some models without any fuel pick up weighted filter. Check there as well. If no filter, I'd install one. A sintered brass filter works nicely....I have a John Deere D140 with a 22 hp V Twin B&S. I just overhauled it, has 140 hours on it. Before overhauling it I had to prime it with gas to get it started, figured it was because of low vacuum. I started it yesterday for first time since the overhaul. Figured it was from setting for three months. I tried restarting it after a couple hours and it wouldn't start. Pulled the carb line and nothing came out. I'm assuming the pump is bad. I see a lot of pumps online, where's the best place to buy one?
Bob
#23
J
jcworks
I'm surprised an overhaul was needed at 140 hours. Is this normal for a B&S engine? What oil was used on that engine?
J
jcworks
I have a John Deere D140 with a 22 hp V Twin B&S. I just overhauled it, has 140 hours on it. Before overhauling it I had to prime it with gas to get it started, figured it was because of low vacuum. I started it yesterday for first time since the overhaul. Figured it was from setting for three months. I tried restarting it after a couple hours and it wouldn't start. Pulled the carb line and nothing came out. I'm assuming the pump is bad. I see a lot of pumps online, where's the best place to buy one?
Bob
I'm surprised an overhaul was needed at 140 hours. Is this normal for a B&S engine? What oil was used on that engine?
#24
G
Gord Baker
G
Gord Baker
Head Gaskets have nothing to do with Oil Consumption.The mower was using one quart of oil every couple of hours. Head gaskets were changed to this spring to see if that corrected the oil consumption. Didnt stop it. One cylinder had 100% air lose with a leakdown test. It warranted an overhaul. It was either that or buy a new engine.
#25
K
kjonxx
K
kjonxx
Don't forget to check the pulse line from the valve cover if its cracked you won't get fuel either.
#26
U
unioncreek
U
unioncreek
On the B&S V Twin that has been an issue.Head Gaskets have nothing to do with Oil Consumption.
#27
U
unioncreek
U
unioncreek
Mobil 30 wt.I'm surprised an overhaul was needed at 140 hours. Is this normal for a B&S engine? What oil was used on that engine?
#29
T
TobyU
It's my belief that Briggs ships all the engines with the standard pipe plug in them but includes that as an option for some of them or the manufacturers order them are already have them and they are the ones that take it out and install it because on the very basic low budget machines they want to save the money and in some applications it just doesn't position itself well to use that and some engines have more than one drain so it can go on either side even though that's not common.
But these things are typically finger tight and you can remove them by simply using your fingers. Like I said it's about 8.5 to 8.7 out of 10 if you survey and see enough of them.
But back to head gaskets, on the Briggs when the head gasket blows it absolutely consumes oil and burns it and when the head gasket blows enough it will visibly show out the exhaust even so much as to look like a mosquito fogger so much that you can't even see your house through the smoke.
This is because these engines are not like somec ar engines where the combustion chamber and the piston area is not connected to or sealed from the lifter galley.
On these engines the piston and combustion chamber is is right next to the lifter galley with only a small thin and gasket to seal it off and a poor design with a long space and not anything over barely adequate clamping force to keep it sealed.
Then, more importantly than the design because cars do have access to the lifter area through the pushrod holes but they are typically four six or eight cylinder engines.
Those engines create constant vacuum when they're running because you have multiple cylinders and pistons timed in different places throughout each revolution of the engine.
These little singles especially and even twins don't have enough to smooth it out so they are very choppy and every time that piston goes down it basically pressurizes the crankcase from the air cup underneath the piston then when it goes up it creates a vacuum in the crankcase from the same movement.
This is why these engines can use this pulsating fuel pump we're talking about. You could not use such a thing on a car or anything that's smooth because you would not have a pulsation, you would only have vacuum.
So these engines are constantly puffing in and out and sucking and blowing on the dipstick tube, the valve cover, the crankcase etc. When the gasket blows.... Things stop staying where they're supposed to be... like oil.
You have compression leaking over into the lifter galley which is pressurizing the crankcase which gets your oil black and nasty and pressurizes the crankcase which can not be good for seals not leaking etc and can cause the breather to leak some and oil go back into the carburetor but more importantly...you have it trying to suck oil at the end of the power stroke right after the explosion as the Pistons going down it's creating a vacuum at least at the end and trying to suck oil through the lifter galley cracked head gasket area back into the combustion chamber.
It's just like a back of fourth tug of war fight if you could film it and slow it down.
But anyway, even with a Briggs single, when the head gasket goes, it continues to widen that little crack in the middle of those two head bolts and eventually it will be blowing a huge cloud of oil smoke.
A blown head gasket can you use 6 or 8 oz easily in 30 to 45 minutes of mowing. Some use less and some use more because when you take them apart some will only have a small like carbon track line between the two areas while others will have 3/8 of an inch he wrote it away.
T
TobyU
On these Briggs & Stratton engines, head gaskets certainly have everything to do with oil consumption and is the most common reason for oil consumption or usage. The second most common reason for the oil to get low would be leakage and that would typically be around the Briggs & Stratton very common quick oil drain valve which works fine but eight and a half out of 10 of them are not installed properly because they are usually if not always installed by the machine manufacturer and not by Briggs & Stratton when the engines leave the warehouse.Head Gaskets have nothing to do with Oil Consumption.
It's my belief that Briggs ships all the engines with the standard pipe plug in them but includes that as an option for some of them or the manufacturers order them are already have them and they are the ones that take it out and install it because on the very basic low budget machines they want to save the money and in some applications it just doesn't position itself well to use that and some engines have more than one drain so it can go on either side even though that's not common.
But these things are typically finger tight and you can remove them by simply using your fingers. Like I said it's about 8.5 to 8.7 out of 10 if you survey and see enough of them.
But back to head gaskets, on the Briggs when the head gasket blows it absolutely consumes oil and burns it and when the head gasket blows enough it will visibly show out the exhaust even so much as to look like a mosquito fogger so much that you can't even see your house through the smoke.
This is because these engines are not like somec ar engines where the combustion chamber and the piston area is not connected to or sealed from the lifter galley.
On these engines the piston and combustion chamber is is right next to the lifter galley with only a small thin and gasket to seal it off and a poor design with a long space and not anything over barely adequate clamping force to keep it sealed.
Then, more importantly than the design because cars do have access to the lifter area through the pushrod holes but they are typically four six or eight cylinder engines.
Those engines create constant vacuum when they're running because you have multiple cylinders and pistons timed in different places throughout each revolution of the engine.
These little singles especially and even twins don't have enough to smooth it out so they are very choppy and every time that piston goes down it basically pressurizes the crankcase from the air cup underneath the piston then when it goes up it creates a vacuum in the crankcase from the same movement.
This is why these engines can use this pulsating fuel pump we're talking about. You could not use such a thing on a car or anything that's smooth because you would not have a pulsation, you would only have vacuum.
So these engines are constantly puffing in and out and sucking and blowing on the dipstick tube, the valve cover, the crankcase etc. When the gasket blows.... Things stop staying where they're supposed to be... like oil.
You have compression leaking over into the lifter galley which is pressurizing the crankcase which gets your oil black and nasty and pressurizes the crankcase which can not be good for seals not leaking etc and can cause the breather to leak some and oil go back into the carburetor but more importantly...you have it trying to suck oil at the end of the power stroke right after the explosion as the Pistons going down it's creating a vacuum at least at the end and trying to suck oil through the lifter galley cracked head gasket area back into the combustion chamber.
It's just like a back of fourth tug of war fight if you could film it and slow it down.
But anyway, even with a Briggs single, when the head gasket goes, it continues to widen that little crack in the middle of those two head bolts and eventually it will be blowing a huge cloud of oil smoke.
A blown head gasket can you use 6 or 8 oz easily in 30 to 45 minutes of mowing. Some use less and some use more because when you take them apart some will only have a small like carbon track line between the two areas while others will have 3/8 of an inch he wrote it away.
#30
Shane4u200
Shane4u200
Everybody is different on their preference. You can spend a ton and get an oem from Deere or go-to Amazon and grab a cheap one that will probably work just as good for minimal costI have a John Deere D140 with a 22 hp V Twin B&S. I just overhauled it, has 140 hours on it. Before overhauling it I had to prime it with gas to get it started, figured it was because of low vacuum. I started it yesterday for first time since the overhaul. Figured it was from setting for three months. I tried restarting it after a couple hours and it wouldn't start. Pulled the carb line and nothing came out. I'm assuming the pump is bad. I see a lot of pumps online, where's the best place to buy one?
Bob
#32
doug9694
doug9694
Or small air leak in the line. Also be sure there is nothing in the tank that can float over the gas outlet blocking the flow.I am assuming the fuel line from the tank to the pump is blocked .
#33
G
Gord Baker
Check Float bowl for fuel. Remove Needle. Fuel should pour out when cranking.
G
Gord Baker
Buy one from a dealer, but I seems you have a lot more problems. Remove gas cap and in an open area blow back the gas line from NEW filter. Blow Carb line back to pump. Be sure the shutoff solenoid is operating and staying open with key on.I have a John Deere D140 with a 22 hp V Twin B&S. I just overhauled it, has 140 hours on it. Before overhauling it I had to prime it with gas to get it started, figured it was because of low vacuum. I started it yesterday for first time since the overhaul. Figured it was from setting for three months. I tried restarting it after a couple hours and it wouldn't start. Pulled the carb line and nothing came out. I'm assuming the pump is bad. I see a lot of pumps online, where's the best place to buy one?
Bob
Check Float bowl for fuel. Remove Needle. Fuel should pour out when cranking.
#34
T
TobyU
A pulsator fuel pump is very easy to check. If it's leaking fuel or oil everywhere or especially out of its little usually brass screen bleed hole then it's obviously bad but other than that all you have to do is make sure fuel is getting to the inlet port and take off the fuel line at the carburetor and crank the engine over or better yet pour a little bit of fuel in the car throat and let it run for five or six seconds and see if gas goes pulse pulse pulse out of the fuel line.
If it doesn't, it's still not exactly time to replace the fuel pump until you make sure that the lines aren't cracked and for the big one make sure I mean absolutely sure it has fuel on the inlet line. Even if you have to run an external tank for a couple of minutes that you see fuel flowing freely to the inlet, do so before you condemn a fuel pump.
Then, if you need to buy one order one on eBay or Amazon for under $9. They are all over the place. Briggs & Stratton round plastic style is the most common and of course there are three port. There's also a four port on the market and some metal ones but regardless all those round three ports will work and there's no reason to pay more for a Briggs & Stratton and especially no reason to pay more for a Briggs & Stratton that John Deere puts in their yellow and green plastic baggie and raises the price 40% or is that 60% now.
Knowing what you're buying and knowing what you need is the key to this game. Buying by brand etc is typically wasteful and you're usually not getting what you pay for.
T
TobyU
I'm going to estimate that approximately 80 to 90% of fuel pumps that are replaced we're never bad at the first place. It's one of those people throwing Parts at the problem and it rarely fixes the problem...at least not on the first time or two.Buy one from a dealer, but I seems you have a lot more problems. Remove gas cap and in an open area blow back the gas line from NEW filter. Blow Carb line back to pump. Be sure the shutoff solenoid is operating and staying open with key on.
Check Float bowl for fuel. Remove Needle. Fuel should pour out when cranking.
A pulsator fuel pump is very easy to check. If it's leaking fuel or oil everywhere or especially out of its little usually brass screen bleed hole then it's obviously bad but other than that all you have to do is make sure fuel is getting to the inlet port and take off the fuel line at the carburetor and crank the engine over or better yet pour a little bit of fuel in the car throat and let it run for five or six seconds and see if gas goes pulse pulse pulse out of the fuel line.
If it doesn't, it's still not exactly time to replace the fuel pump until you make sure that the lines aren't cracked and for the big one make sure I mean absolutely sure it has fuel on the inlet line. Even if you have to run an external tank for a couple of minutes that you see fuel flowing freely to the inlet, do so before you condemn a fuel pump.
Then, if you need to buy one order one on eBay or Amazon for under $9. They are all over the place. Briggs & Stratton round plastic style is the most common and of course there are three port. There's also a four port on the market and some metal ones but regardless all those round three ports will work and there's no reason to pay more for a Briggs & Stratton and especially no reason to pay more for a Briggs & Stratton that John Deere puts in their yellow and green plastic baggie and raises the price 40% or is that 60% now.
Knowing what you're buying and knowing what you need is the key to this game. Buying by brand etc is typically wasteful and you're usually not getting what you pay for.
#35
B
bertsmobile1
In 11 years only ever had 1 faulty impulse pump and 2 failed mechanical pumps .
OTOH have replaced 8 pumps because the customer insisted the pump was bad and of those 8, 7 came back latter so I could do the real fix which was to clean the fuel tank & replace the tank to pump fuel lines .
B
bertsmobile1
YepI'm going to estimate that approximately 80 to 90% of fuel pumps that are replaced we're never bad at the first place. It's one of those people throwing Parts at the problem and it rarely fixes the problem...at least not on the first time or two.
A pulsator fuel pump is very easy to check. If it's leaking fuel or oil everywhere or especially out of its little usually brass screen bleed hole then it's obviously bad but other than that all you have to do is make sure fuel is getting to the inlet port and take off the fuel line at the carburetor and crank the engine over or better yet pour a little bit of fuel in the car throat and let it run for five or six seconds and see if gas goes pulse pulse pulse out of the fuel line.
If it doesn't, it's still not exactly time to replace the fuel pump until you make sure that the lines aren't cracked and for the big one make sure I mean absolutely sure it has fuel on the inlet line. Even if you have to run an external tank for a couple of minutes that you see fuel flowing freely to the inlet, do so before you condemn a fuel pump.
Then, if you need to buy one order one on eBay or Amazon for under $9. They are all over the place. Briggs & Stratton round plastic style is the most common and of course there are three port. There's also a four port on the market and some metal ones but regardless all those round three ports will work and there's no reason to pay more for a Briggs & Stratton and especially no reason to pay more for a Briggs & Stratton that John Deere puts in their yellow and green plastic baggie and raises the price 40% or is that 60% now.
Knowing what you're buying and knowing what you need is the key to this game. Buying by brand etc is typically wasteful and you're usually not getting what you pay for.
In 11 years only ever had 1 faulty impulse pump and 2 failed mechanical pumps .
OTOH have replaced 8 pumps because the customer insisted the pump was bad and of those 8, 7 came back latter so I could do the real fix which was to clean the fuel tank & replace the tank to pump fuel lines .
#36
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
That's certainly how the numbers play out. I have repaired exactly two of the old Kohler mechanical pumps because the little diaphragm just pop out of the plastic and you can stake them back in with a hot screwdriver..Yep
In 11 years only ever had 1 faulty impulse pump and 2 failed mechanical pumps .
OTOH have replaced 8 pumps because the customer insisted the pump was bad and of those 8, 7 came back latter so I could do the real fix which was to clean the fuel tank & replace the tank to pump fuel lines .