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How to remove stuck "screw nozzle" from B&S carb?

#1

Hossrod

Hossrod

Hello!

I have a B&S model 281707 type 0412-01 engine in my Craftsman 917.254520. I just got it and don't know much about it (its my first riding mower, so dont know much in genreal about them). The engine surges pretty bad so I got a carb rebuilt kit, watched a bunch of you tube videos, etc.

Anyways, I'm having trouble getting out the "screw nozzle" (as the craftsman manual calls it, #52 in the attached image). I was wondering if there are any tricks or ideas to get it out? It just seems stuck and I'm afraid of stripping it with the screw driver head or something. I don't see any damage, dirt, etc that might be preventing it. The top half (#37) came out easy enough. Thought I would check here first before I try and really put some pressure on it.

TIA!

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#2

T

twinfords

Hossrod, you need to soak the carb so you can get the screw out, if you can't get it out just clean it real good.


#3

reynoldston

reynoldston

You need a screw driver bit that fits the slot. Frist of all a standard screwdriver not going to fit. What I have is a set of socket drive bits that come in lot of different sizes and try them till I find one that fits. I turn this bit with a 1/4 drive ratchet. If you don't have a driver bit that fits the slot you will strip out the slot. This is all about having the right tools. Now maybe someone else has a better way and if so lets hear it???


#4

pugaltitude

pugaltitude

You need a screw driver bit that fits the slot. Frist of all a standard screwdriver not going to fit. What I have is a set of socket drive bits that come in lot of different sizes and try them till I find one that fits. I turn this bit with a 1/4 drive ratchet. If you don't have a driver bit that fits the slot you will strip out the slot. This is all about having the right tools. Now maybe someone else has a better way and if so lets hear it???

Just use the proper briggs screwdriver. :wink:


#5

reynoldston

reynoldston

Just use the proper briggs screwdriver. :wink:

I didn't know they made one. Have you got any more information on it other then briggs screwdriver? The set of driver bits I have is made for guns and all different sizes of straight bits and made to not bugger up the screw slots. Works just great for carburetor brass screws or parts. I have had it for years so I don't know what I payed for it any more but I would bet the briggs screwdriver is cheaper.


#6

R

Rivets

The Briggs drive is in the tools section of the Briggs quick parts reference book. If you need the part numbers ( they make two sizes) let me know. If you do strip the slot you will have to replace the nozzle. Here's a tip when this happens. Soak the carb in anti freeze ( you plug the nozzle in the air horn and then pour a small amount in the other end so it is full.). Let sit for 24 hours and then drive a torx bit into the hole. This bit has much more grip and you should be able to turn it out. Then clean carb and reassemble.


#7

Hossrod

Hossrod

Thanks for all the info everyone! Well, I was impatient so I found an old large flat blade screw driver and ground it down a bit to make the blade faces parallel instead of tapered. This allowed it to fit very securely in the slot with no slop or a tendency to push itself up and out of the slot. I then put the carb in a vice and turned the screw driver REAL hard, and it finally broke free (note, I did spray a little bit of screw loose in it first).

I didn't damage the nozzle, but I'm replacing it anyways since I had already bought a carb rebuild kit for it.


#8

D

Dave A.

Doggone it, I wish I would have found this forum before embarking on trying to replace the nozzle on my carb (the very same model as this one).

Some buddies at work and I have been trying to get the thing out. First, I had been soaking the carb in paint thinner for a couple of days. Then, we sprayed with PB Blaster and tried using a screwdriver which was wide enough to fill the entire slot, but the brass just broke.

Next, we tried drilling the center and using a #1 screw extractor, but again, bits of brass just broke off around the extractor, and then the extractor just spun freely (guess it could have been worse -- at least the extractor didn't break :smile: ).

After that, we figured the only option was to drill it out almost to the threads, and peel it away from the threads. As things now stand, we have it drilled out about 1/4" (see attached photos).

I was going to spend the afternoon carefully drilling and trying to remove the remainder piece by piece. But now, I'm wondering if a better option would be to soak it in antifreeze until tomorrow, as Rivets suggested to the original poster, and then trying to turn it out with some tool, perhaps a larger screw extractor.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!


IMG_1740.jpgIMG_1742.jpg


#9

reynoldston

reynoldston

I don't know but it sure looks like you might have a mess. If it was mine my next step would be try some heat but not too much. Let cool and try a easy-out. Don't get strong or you will expand it and make it tighter. You might have to try this more then once.


#10

R

Rivets

If I get to this point ( yes it has happened to many times) I use a Torx bit. Find the appropriate size and drive it is, then use my 1/4" rachet to remover it. Be careful if you are going to try drilling.


#11

D

Dave A.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys -- I'll give them a try tomorrow. Right now, I'm soaking it in some antifreeze.

I do have another question about this carburetor. When it comes time to re-assemble it, do I apply any sealant to the float bowl gasket? When I took it apart, there didn't appear to be any sealant on the bottom side of the old gasket, but the top side seemed to be stuck pretty tight to the carb body.


#12

reynoldston

reynoldston

Thanks for the suggestions, guys -- I'll give them a try tomorrow. Right now, I'm soaking it in some antifreeze.

I do have another question about this carburetor. When it comes time to re-assemble it, do I apply any sealant to the float bowl gasket? When I took it apart, there didn't appear to be any sealant on the bottom side of the old gasket, but the top side seemed to be stuck pretty tight to the carb body.


Install carburetor gaskets dry and surly don't use RTV sealant it doesn't like gas.


#13

D

Dave A.

Install carburetor gaskets dry and surly don't use RTV sealant it doesn't like gas.

OK, thanks!


#14

exotion

exotion

Doggone it, I wish I would have found this forum before embarking on trying to replace the nozzle on my carb (the very same model as this one).

Some buddies at work and I have been trying to get the thing out. First, I had been soaking the carb in paint thinner for a couple of days. Then, we sprayed with PB Blaster and tried using a screwdriver which was wide enough to fill the entire slot, but the brass just broke.

Next, we tried drilling the center and using a #1 screw extractor, but again, bits of brass just broke off around the extractor, and then the extractor just spun freely (guess it could have been worse -- at least the extractor didn't break :smile: ).

After that, we figured the only option was to drill it out almost to the threads, and peel it away from the threads. As things now stand, we have it drilled out about 1/4" (see attached photos).

I was going to spend the afternoon carefully drilling and trying to remove the remainder piece by piece. But now, I'm wondering if a better option would be to soak it in antifreeze until tomorrow, as Rivets suggested to the original poster, and then trying to turn it out with some tool, perhaps a larger screw extractor.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

<img src="http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14048"/><img src="http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14049"/>

This is where I just buy a new carb


#15

D

Dave A.

This is where I just buy a new carb

I may have to resort to that.

To tell the truth, though, I kind of enjoy a challenge like this, of taking something and breathing new life into it (even though I end up doing a lot more cussing than usual during the process :ashamed:).


#16

D

DaveTN

I may have to resort to that.

To tell the truth, though, I kind of enjoy a challenge like this, of taking something and breathing new life into it (even though I end up doing a lot more cussing than usual during the process :ashamed:).

Put this carb on some wood blocks, maybe gently and snugly in a vice just enough to hold it so you can take a flat punch and "tap", not hammer the brass fitting around the outer edge near the threads but NOT hit the threads. A few taps around that will jar the threads loose and you should be able to turn it out as before. I've done this before with success. Hope this helps.


#17

D

Dave A.

Put this carb on some wood blocks, maybe gently and snugly in a vice just enough to hold it so you can take a flat punch and "tap", not hammer the brass fitting around the outer edge near the threads but NOT hit the threads. A few taps around that will jar the threads loose and you should be able to turn it out as before. I've done this before with success. Hope this helps.

Dave, thanks for the suggestion. By the time I read it, I had already begun drilling the old nozzle out, using a bit just smaller than the outside diameter of the nozzle, basically hollowing it out, then peeling the remaining edges of the nozzle from the threads in the carb body. Then, I ran a tap of the appropriate size into the threads a couple of times to clean them out. Seems to be OK.


I do have another question, about installing the replacement main nozzle and jet nozzle. Is it customary to use any type of sealant on the threads when installing them, or do you simply turn them in as far as they go? I don't think that there were any signs of sealant on the threads of the old ones, but thought I'd ask.

Thanks!


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