How to get a tuff nut off

[angellonewolf]

Ideas on removing this nut my problem is there is no way to stop the thing from moving when I try to undo the nut

I made up a bar with 2 blots coming out of it that slipped in to the hols you see under the nut but all that done was bend the bolts not let me undo the large nut

 

[reynoldston]

Spread it with a chisel, heat, impact wrench, I have used them all with luck.

 

[BlazNT]

looking at blades i think its left hand thread

 

[bertsmobile1]

Nope. it is a Victa ( Mustang by the looks of the skirt on the baseplate ) and the thread is a standard RH one.
The trick is to use a rattle gun, they will fall off.
If you do not have access to one the move the piston to a little before TDC if it has a Power torque engine or BDC if it has a B &S , Honda or Tecumseh engine.
Stuff as much nylon rope down the plug hole as you can.
Then give the spannar on the nut a sharp smack with the biggest hammer you can find.
The logic is the rope prevents the piston from going up any further so the shock load is applied to the nut.
The 2 stroke engines complicate doing this because you dont want the rope goind down the transfer port.
You can buy a tool called a piston stop that does the same thing but make sure it is the plastic one not the steel one which can damage the piston.

The other alternative is to remove the muffler and stuff the rope through the exhaust port so it is totally inside the cylinder .
This has 2 problems
Some times the rope gets mashed so it is hard to get all of it out without removing the head.
Secondly it will usually dislodge hard carbon deposits around the exhaust port that will score the piston so you will not get the usual 30 to 50 years of service life from the engine.

 

[angellonewolf]

what a spot yes its a victa what a spot from the bottem

i have had the head off already (will make a gasket) so stuffing with rope not a problem does it have to be nylon i do have string here but is there a danger for braking the head in doing this ?

its a 2 stroke you prob already know this and has no spark im hoping the u metal thing coil ? needs ajustmant as its to far away to produce the spark

 

[bertsmobile1]

Never seen a head break.
However it needs to be a hard sharp smack after you have cranked the piston around to compress the rope.
Beware of a slow twist say using a 2' bar as you can bend the crank and you need a $ 75 tool to undo the crank pin.
Personally I would be inclined to pop around to yout local garage and ask them to give it a wack with a rattle gun, a 10 second job.

As for the spark it will depend upon weather it is an early or late engine.
The early engines ( close fining on the barrel ) use a seperate coil and trigger ( little silver square under the carb, usually pop riveted on )
The latter engines have long & short fins widely spaced as the earlier engines over cooled in Australia so they must have been really cool in the UK.
The latter engine uses a combined trigger & coil which are now $ 185 wholesale as Briggs & Stratton is trying to get rid of all the old Power torques so they can sell more Chineese Briggs on a dish.
Before you test the spark, remove the cross wire from the switch so there is no accidental earthing of the spark.
You can fit the old system to new engines I do it on a daily basis.
If you are going to replace the nut then just use a nut splitter on it.
Do not hit it with a hammer & chisel as the shaft has a habit of bending.
If you can wind the nut on by hand tright up to the plate then it needs replacing.
They are a 10 year service replacement item.

 

[reynoldston]

I have used the rope method when I worked on 2 cycle snowmobiles engines to remove the clutch's. It worked good on them but the only thing is be careful you don't feed the rope into the intake or exhaust ports. I don't see what different the type of rope you use, but I used nylon because it just happen to be what I had at the time. If you do use the chisel method make sure you support crankshaft so you don't bend it.

 

[BlazNT]

Nope. it is a Victa ( Mustang by the looks of the skirt on the baseplate ) and the thread is a standard RH one.
The trick is to use a rattle gun, they will fall off.
If you do not have access to one the move the piston to a little before TDC if it has a Power torque engine or BDC if it has a B &S , Honda or Tecumseh engine.
Stuff as much nylon rope down the plug hole as you can.
Then give the spannar on the nut a sharp smack with the biggest hammer you can find.
The logic is the rope prevents the piston from going up any further so the shock load is applied to the nut.
The 2 stroke engines complicate doing this because you dont want the rope goind down the transfer port.
You can buy a tool called a piston stop that does the same thing but make sure it is the plastic one not the steel one which can damage the piston.

The other alternative is to remove the muffler and stuff the rope through the exhaust port so it is totally inside the cylinder .
This has 2 problems
Some times the rope gets mashed so it is hard to get all of it out without removing the head.
Secondly it will usually dislodge hard carbon deposits around the exhaust port that will score the piston so you will not get the usual 30 to 50 years of service life from the engine.

I was really sick yesterday. I should have not gotten on the forums.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Being in the USA where the government placed a fake safety ban on Victa so it could not sell into the "free market" you have most likely not seen many Victas
I OTOH live in the country where they were made and rebuild them as a side line to the small engine workshop so I see a substantially larger amount of them.
No need to feel embarrased.

 

[angellonewolf]

Done it I had a air gun in my tools but thought the compreser was not man enught but I had changed the air gun I had and never tryed it and my new gun works ok but not for long but enught to undo the stubrn nut yea

Now for the next step trying to figure out how the coil and carb all work together