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I'd like to consider myself not an idiot but apparently that's not the case. I bought this mower "as is" at an auction, I've looked all over & can not find a switch or lever that would engage the PTO/blades. The model number is worn off the bottom of the seat so I cant get a owners manual. It's an old MTD Yard Machines. I'm about to go look for the drive belt & go from there, Anyone have any ideas? I operate farm machinery but cant figure out a lawn mower, feel free to pile on the jokes :laughing:.

When you lower the deck there is a mechanism that pulls the deck rearward to tension the drive belt, and engage the blades.

I would think it would have a electric operated clutch. I see two switches and take it either one of them operate the clutch. From here I would say there is some kind of problem? Blown fuse , bad wire, clutch burned out?

ILENGINE is the winner!! Thanks all!!

If you know how to read B & S serial numbers find the year of your engine
If you don't post the engine & Serial number's and from that we can work out the age of the mower.
No one but no one ever replaced a H twin Briggs.
Armed with that you can go to the MTD web site and do a parts search
Click on the "Parts finder" tab
In the parts finder window click on the down arrow under "Find Parts By Model"
Click on the "MTD" folder
Scroll down to the bottom & click on the "Yard Machine" folder
Click on "13- lawn Tractors"
Click on the year of your engine
Look for a serial number with the letter "H" as the 4th last digit
H is the 3 blade 46" deck.
Plug the serial number on the parts list into the "find manuals" section in the "support " section and download the operators manual & engine manual

Now if you want to be a bit more specific, open multiple windows with every H deck and look at the hoods section to find the one same as yours.
The hood style is the 5th last number and goes from 3 to 9

If you have not gone mad , blind or both, welcome to the lot of the independant small engine mechanic :confused2:

Your exact mower year could also be a year latter than the engine year.
A detailed service manual can be found at K & T's site "K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts" and you are looking for Must have book Number 2 rear engine & lawn tractors.

If any clever lads out there knows how the rest of the model code works I would be appreciative for some education.
I know the first two numbers are the equipment type

This web site might help you understand MTD model numbers.

http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/MTD/Model_Number_Guide.pdf

Thanks everyone! Apparently the previous owners were the only people that could destroy a H twin because this mower has a 20hp Twin in it now. There was a partial model number left, I was able to scroll through the model years & I found a match, it's a 13A6699H192 (1997). Thanks for the info. I picked this mower up for not very much, with a tune up, battery & belt, I think I'll be in business. Thanks a lot!

Rivets said:

This web site might help you understand MTD model numbers.

http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/MTD/Model_Number_Guide.pdf

Click to expand...

Thanks Rivets, very useful

Dowd_Elwood_P said:

Thanks everyone! Apparently the previous owners were the only people that could destroy a H twin because this mower has a 20hp Twin in it now. There was a partial model number left, I was able to scroll through the model years & I found a match, it's a 13A6699H192 (1997). Thanks for the info. I picked this mower up for not very much, with a tune up, battery & belt, I think I'll be in business. Thanks a lot!

Click to expand...

Let us know how it goes.
No one replaced the H Twins because they were very expensive not because they were bullet proof.
I hate them because every one I have touched to date needed a valve adjustment which takes a whole day to do and the shop rate is 45 minutes a side & 30 mins for cleaning so lots of dead hours.

So when your starter motor as trouble turning the engine over the compression arm yourself with a complete overhall kit ,leave a good weekend free to do the job and take lots of photos, a new one every time you remove/ disconnect any part as the set up of linkages & cowlings is quite confusing and not obvious from reading the manual.
While they are just 2 L heads joined together at the crank they are so much more tedious to work on.
And for some reason I can not fathom seem really prone to leaking oil through the head gaskets via the lower head bolts.

Well I think it's time for that overhaul kit..... It runs ok unloaded but it looses power under load & will kill its self if you try to mow with it. I was blaming it on a carb issue. The starter is slow to turn with a new battery & good cables. I checked the voltage, its was about 7.5 but jumped around loaded, I pulled the plugs & it was a steady 9.5 so I assume it's a starter issue or end cap. Anyway, I did a compression check while I had the plugs out. It was cold & I have 33psi on the left & 60psi on the right. The plugs have about 5-7min of run time on them, the left was blackened a bit but the right was clean. What psi should they have? The motor is Model 461707 Type 0143 E1 Code 9911295B I'll post more pictures of it later. Thanks

Actual compression numbers are meaningless as there is an automatic decompression at cranking speeds and the amount of decompression will vary with valve lash & rotation speed.
However the difference between the 2 says that either the lash on the left is too big or the left has a blown gasket.
They are a good motor so worth the effort of rebuilding but before you go spending lots of money check the big ends for play.
Poke something down he plug hole that can stay in contact with the piston for the entire stroke.
Push against this stick while rotating the engine. At TDC & BDC there should be a smooth change from up to down & visa versa.
If it clicks at TDC or goes hollow at BDC then the rod is cactus and the motor is going to be an expensive repair.

Thanks, Bertsmobile1! I'll give that test a try & report back.

I didn't try the test. The spark plug hole doesn't look like it would line up with the piston. Looks like I'd have to take the "head" off to have a straight shot at the piston. Thought I'd double check before I stuck something in the cylinder.