How to check voltage or amps from solenoid to starter

[wilburn cox]

I posted on 9/12/2018 about a weird noise at start up on my Murray mower. As i stated in the post the motor runs fine after starting. I am wondering if there is a bad connection somewhere between the battery, solenoid or a ground. How can I check the voltage getting to the starter? I have a multi meter and necessary tools.
Any assistance will be appreciated. Again I am asking if there may be a voltage drop some where between the initial turning of the ignition key and the current to the starter. I may be way off on my thinking but after applying dry lubricant to the spiral I still have the same noise.
Thanks in advance
Wilburn "Red" Cox

 

[shiftsuper175607]

I posted on 9/12/2018 about a weird noise at start up on my Murray mower. As i stated in the post the motor runs fine after starting. I am wondering if there is a bad connection somewhere between the battery, solenoid or a ground. How can I check the voltage getting to the starter? I have a multi meter and necessary tools.
Any assistance will be appreciated. Again I am asking if there may be a voltage drop some where between the initial turning of the ignition key and the current to the starter. I may be way off on my thinking but after applying dry lubricant to the spiral I still have the same noise.
Thanks in advance
Wilburn "Red" Cox

The wire from the battery runs straight to the solenoid...the connection at the + side of battery and the solenoid connection are the ones to check.
Then, the solenoid must make a good connection inside when the trigger wire closes it.
Both ends of the wire from solenoid to starter...check wire connectors and connections
Also, the wire going into the connectors can be corroded and making a poor connection.

battery needs to be good...take off to be tested or jump start with another battery

 

[wilburn cox]

The wire from the battery runs straight to the solenoid...the connection at the + side of battery and the solenoid connection are the ones to check.
Then, the solenoid must make a good connection inside when the trigger wire closes it.
Both ends of the wire from solenoid to starter...check wire connectors and connections
Also, the wire going into the connectors can be corroded and making a poor connection.

battery needs to be good...take off to be tested or jump start with another battery

Thanks for the quick reply Shiftsuper. I will check those connections. Have a great day. Red Cox

 

[tom3]

Just take one lead of the meter and put it on the + battery terminal, the other lead on the bolt on the starter where the hot cable connects. Not on the cable ends, directly on the terminals. Meter set on 12 volts. Should see zero volts to begin with. Have someone try the starter and watch for a voltage reading. Should be a very low reading if the cables, solenoid, connectors are good. Otherwise you need to back probe and find the bad connection.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Just take one lead of the meter and put it on the + battery terminal, the other lead on the bolt on the starter where the hot cable connects. Not on the cable ends, directly on the terminals. Meter set on 12 volts. Should see zero volts to begin with. Have someone try the starter and watch for a voltage reading. Should be a very low reading if the cables, solenoid, connectors are good. Otherwise you need to back probe and find the bad connection.

And don't forget there are two sides to the battery.
So the ground has to be good tight & clean as well.
SOP here is to remove all of the contacts, wire brush them nice & shiny then bolt up tight and paint over with liquid electrical tape.
And this goes for the starter motor mounting bolts as well.

Also when was the last time he checked the valve lash ?
The No1 "engine will not crank" problem is too much valve lash defeating the decompressor.

 

[wilburn cox]

And don't forget there are two sides to the battery.
So the ground has to be good tight & clean as well.
SOP here is to remove all of the contacts, wire brush them nice & shiny then bolt up tight and paint over with liquid electrical tape.
And this goes for the starter motor mounting bolts as well.

Also when was the last time he checked the valve lash ?
The No1 "engine will not crank" problem is too much valve lash defeating the decompressor.

Thanks for the info. bertsmobile; I have never used liquid electrical tape but assure you I will get some and use it as per your instructions. I will check all connections, clean and tighten also. I did adjust the valves on September 11/2018. The engine runs great from idle to full throttle after it starts. The only problem is it seem to, initially, turn over slowly like it is dragging. I always appreciate your input and willingness to offer help to all of us.
Have a great day "Red" Cox

 

[Rivets]

This manual might be of some help.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/~/...gsAndStratton/PDFs/alternator_replacement.pdf