Store in a closed structure if possible. The air is drier and it keeps moisture out. Damp air outside with large temp changes will cause condensation in the gas tank and carb. Stabil helps if added in the fall. Run some through the carb by running the engine. On riders remove the battery and store in your garage. Charge and charge again mid -winter. Tarps draped over mowers don't allow enough air circulation to keep things dry. Build a frame of some kind with a plywood/OSB top. I have a push mower I bought in 1991 and kept in a closed shed. It still starts in the spring on the first or second pull. The only maintenance is regular oil and filter changes and stabil in the tank and carb for winter storage. I had to put a new pull cord on about 10 years ago and some new rear wheels about 5 years - the plastic tires literally just dried and broke up. 34 years old and still runs great.
I ALWAYS run gas engines dry. I clean the tank (hot water & soap ) and dry on the shop counter, then reinstall. Blow out lines. I really like the fogging idea. Used it on my boats.
If you are ANAL LIKE ME, ROTATE THE PISTON to TOP to close valves. Prevents outside air from entering chamber and rusting/sticking rings.
If you are ANAL LIKE ME, ROTATE THE PISTON to TOP to close valves. Prevents outside air from entering chamber and rusting/sticking rings.
DO NOT USE ANY GASOLINE WITH ETHANOL IN IT!!!! Fill the tank completely with non-oxygenated gasoline (Premium gas or 91 and higher octane) will do, but the pump where you purchase your gas will state that it is this, or will state for the used of recreational vehicles. Been my experience to keep a full tank of gas over the winter time with Sta-bil fuel stabilizer. Never had a problem. I used to completely drain the gas, but the cork seals, etc on the carb dry out and deteriorate, and leak.
I don't have a choice unless I want to drive a long way to find gas that doesn't have Ethanol but I never have problems starting any of my engines. I don't run them dry, but I do run them low with stabilizer in the gas can which goes in as soon as I buy it, so anything I put in the tank on a machine has already been treated. When I start the ones with a pull cord, I prime (if it has a bulb), then pull the cord gently a few times to build compression and pull gas into the cylinder before the first attempt, which is usually successful. I think I pulled the two stage snowblower cord about a foot and that's all it needed.
I was checking the auger on the two stage blower yesterday and when I tipped it forward, I noticed grass and other stuff coming out of the area where the belts/disc, etc are, so I'll have to clean that out again. Last Winter was the first time for outside storage, but it was full after storing it inside, too.
grumpyunk
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Make you own ethanol-free fuel. If you add enough water to a container of E-10, it will combine with the ETOH and being denser, will fall to the bottom of the container. Above the layer of water is fuel without any ETOH mixed in.
If you can decant successfully, you can leave the water at the bottom of the container. Whatever you pour off has no ETOH in it any more. It should not absorb H2O any more either.
You can search a bit on YT to see videos demonstrating different methods and means to remove the ETOH from adulterated gasoline.
You will effectively lose 10-12% of your fuel by volume as the ETOH falls out. I do not remember the math, but when you add even mixes of ETOH and Gasoline, you do not end up with 2X the volume as the two are miscible and make less volume. A magic trick of old. Maybe it was water and ETOH, not too sure any more.
But this will get you ETOH free fuel.
tom
I have heard about doing this, but would need to have major, constant problems in order to really have the need. It wouldn't be hard to do, though- find a clear container, add a valve at the bottom and drain the water out or use a fuel water separator for a boat. Either would work.
GearHead36
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Ethanol is an octane booster. Removing it lowers octane. So if you do this, start out with premium (91-93 octane) fuel.
True. Less energy dense than gasoline, too.
grumpyunk
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Tell me the compression ratio of these OPE engines. My bet is none of them would even note the difference in octane with or without the ETOH being present. Most are pretty low stressed designs, and likely could work fine with lowered octane.
I will not tell anyone to buy a particular grade, just stating I think it would cause no problem to run with 87 rated fuel that has had the ETOH precipitated.
Try it both ways, and see. Take a quart of 87 rated E10, add water, and decant the gasoline. See if it has a problem, or just do the same with some 91/93 rated fuel. Some, (not all?) of the mid and high grades are supplied without a 10% portion of ETOH added, but testing with water should demonstrate whether they do or do not. There are graduated cylinders marked so you can add specific amounts of adulterated gasoline to, then add calculated amounts of H2O, and determine the percentage of ETOH in the fuel. That way you know your 'E' number.
I posted the note about making ETOH free fuel so those who cannot find it locally can make their own, nothing beyond that.
tom
I will not tell anyone to buy a particular grade, just stating I think it would cause no problem to run with 87 rated fuel that has had the ETOH precipitated.
Try it both ways, and see. Take a quart of 87 rated E10, add water, and decant the gasoline. See if it has a problem, or just do the same with some 91/93 rated fuel. Some, (not all?) of the mid and high grades are supplied without a 10% portion of ETOH added, but testing with water should demonstrate whether they do or do not. There are graduated cylinders marked so you can add specific amounts of adulterated gasoline to, then add calculated amounts of H2O, and determine the percentage of ETOH in the fuel. That way you know your 'E' number.
I posted the note about making ETOH free fuel so those who cannot find it locally can make their own, nothing beyond that.
tom
Fuel quality isn't important in these- I ran out of gas with an old push mower and didn't want to leave one strip, nor did I want to go to a gas station, so I mixed some Mineral Spirits and Denatured Alcohol, just to finish- it ran fine. I wouldn't do that with a new engine, though- that mower was free and very old but I used it for a few years after, so....
When I do fuel tests and see water or milky water/Alcohol, I do pour off the clean gas and save the crap, to drop it off at a waste dropoff site.