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How do you prep your mowers for Winter storage?
#1
G
Gym123
G
Gym123
I don't have enough space in my garage and the city wanted too much $ for permits and inspection to build a bump-out, so I need to store my mower on the slab behind my garage, covered. I stored my snow blowers there, under a tarp, and they're fine.
I have serviced boats for a long time and working for dealers, we always used some kind of corrosion inhibitor, but some of those are just Silicone and I really don't want to use anything like that. I did polish and wax the shroud because it looked like crap and I know that will provide protection for the paint, but it does have some bare metal (not worried about the Aluminum so much) and I'm just curious about how others store these when they can't keep them inside of a garage or larger shed. I plan to build the shed, but it won't happen immediately.
Thanks.
I have serviced boats for a long time and working for dealers, we always used some kind of corrosion inhibitor, but some of those are just Silicone and I really don't want to use anything like that. I did polish and wax the shroud because it looked like crap and I know that will provide protection for the paint, but it does have some bare metal (not worried about the Aluminum so much) and I'm just curious about how others store these when they can't keep them inside of a garage or larger shed. I plan to build the shed, but it won't happen immediately.
Thanks.
#2
7394
7394
Recommend taking battery inside @ give it a charge every so often,. I overinflate tires by 6 lbs or so over spec. Helps them from flat spotting too badly.
A waxer, my way as well. Makes cleaning it off easier in season. Either drain gas, or use 100% gas ,,
A waxer, my way as well. Makes cleaning it off easier in season. Either drain gas, or use 100% gas ,,
#3
G
Gym123
Not sure who worked on it before, but the complaint from the previous owner was "White smoke" and when I looked in the tank, I saw tiny grass clippings and parts from a spout from a CA compliant gas container. Since it requires removing a whole two bolts and a hose clamp to disconnect it from the filter, I drained the tank and let the gas settle- it went into a 1 liter water bottle and it was very cloudy. No phase separation, but I saw more than 1/2" of water at the bottom after it settled. The rest looked fine and smelled fresh. The white smoke ended as soon as I ran it with fresh gas. OTOH, the blue smoke that couldn't be seen before, was pretty dense.
G
Gym123
I removed almost all of the gas and ran it dry, but I do add StaBil for gas with Ethanol. It's really not hard or time consuming to do this stuff and I had lubed everything when I got it. Battery is out, tires are up, engine is fogged. Twice, since I had to start it in order to go over the edge of the slab.Recommend taking battery inside @ give it a charge every so often,. I overinflate tires by 6 lbs or so over spec. Helps them from flat spotting too badly.
A waxer, my way as well. Makes cleaning it off easier in season. Either drain gas, or use 100% gas ,,
Not sure who worked on it before, but the complaint from the previous owner was "White smoke" and when I looked in the tank, I saw tiny grass clippings and parts from a spout from a CA compliant gas container. Since it requires removing a whole two bolts and a hose clamp to disconnect it from the filter, I drained the tank and let the gas settle- it went into a 1 liter water bottle and it was very cloudy. No phase separation, but I saw more than 1/2" of water at the bottom after it settled. The rest looked fine and smelled fresh. The white smoke ended as soon as I ran it with fresh gas. OTOH, the blue smoke that couldn't be seen before, was pretty dense.
#4
7394
7394
That is phase separationNo phase separation, but I saw more than 1/2" of water at the bottom after it settled.
#5
S
slomo
S
slomo
I run in then fill tank 100% full with Sta-Bil Storage Formula and 100% unleaded. For me keeps the fuel lines from drying out over the winter compared to dry storage. Used to replace lines all the time. Little fogging oil in each cylinder. Wax the deck and apply used motor oil to the underside of the deck. Slather it on the blade and all. Great way to recycle used oil. Breathable waterproof cover or no cover. If you Ziplock bag it, it can and will rust. Sheet of plywood or something to keep Mother Nature off of it. Need some airflow under there to slow the rusting down.
#6
7394
7394
leave deck in highest position..
My Z is up on the wheel dolleys I made so long ago.. Makes it easy to push sideways or whatever..
My Z is up on the wheel dolleys I made so long ago.. Makes it easy to push sideways or whatever..
#7
G
Gym123
G
Gym123
Nope. Phase separation is a milky layer of mixed Ethanol and water. This was just water that settled out of the temporary mixture. For all I know, they may have used gas without Ethanol and it was exactly the same as what I used to see before we had to use that crap.That is phase separation
#8
G
Gym123
G
Gym123
I plan to build some kind of structure for the slab with enough height to allow me to put the push mower over the rider's shroud. That way, I can store it lower and prevent me effing up my shoulder, like I did a week ago Sunday. I haven't decided on the exterior, but I think T-111 may be a possibility- that will make adding vents easy. Having shrink-wrapped and uncovered a lot of boats, I know that moisture inside of a cover is a big problem. I may add a fan on a timer to it, to circulate the air.I run in then fill tank 100% full with Sta-Bil Storage Formula and 100% unleaded. For me keeps the fuel lines from drying out over the winter compared to dry storage. Used to replace lines all the time. Little fogging oil in each cylinder. Wax the deck and apply used motor oil to the underside of the deck. Slather it on the blade and all. Great way to recycle used oil. Breathable waterproof cover or no cover. If you Ziplock bag it, it can and will rust. Sheet of plywood or something to keep Mother Nature off of it. Need some airflow under there to slow the rusting down.
View attachment 70240
#9
S
slomo
S
slomo
Think the fan deal might be overkill. Simple daily wind should suffice. Your mower so build it up if you like. As you are doing, build some kind of lean-to shed deal'io.I plan to build some kind of structure for the slab with enough height to allow me to put the push mower over the rider's shroud. That way, I can store it lower and prevent me effing up my shoulder, like I did a week ago Sunday. I haven't decided on the exterior, but I think T-111 may be a possibility- that will make adding vents easy. Having shrink-wrapped and uncovered a lot of boats, I know that moisture inside of a cover is a big problem. I may add a fan on a timer to it, to circulate the air.
#10
7394
7394
In fuel storage, phase separation occurs when enough water contaminates the gasoline, causing the ethanol to attach itself to the water molecules and leaving two distinct layers in the storage tank.Nope. Phase separation is a milky layer of mixed Ethanol and water. This was just water that settled out of the temporary mixture. For all I know, they may have used gas without Ethanol and it was exactly the same as what I used to see before we had to use that crap.
#11
G
Gym123
Again, I have seen plenty of bad gas by working on boats and what I had isn't what I saw in those fuel systems.
G
Gym123
Right- the cloudy water/Ethanol layer and the gas on top- I wrote that mine was just gas on top of liquid water and it was only cloudy after shaking the bottle, but it settled out later. There's no milky layer and in phase separation, the only way to remedy it is to remove the layer with water/alcohol.In fuel storage, phase separation occurs when enough water contaminates the gasoline, causing the ethanol to attach itself to the water molecules and leaving two distinct layers in the storage tank.
Again, I have seen plenty of bad gas by working on boats and what I had isn't what I saw in those fuel systems.
#12
G
Gym123
This may be a moot point, though- the cost of living here has become unaffordable- the shiny new property tax and water bills arrived and the increases are insane, so I'm not staying here.
G
Gym123
The slab is behind my garage and the only time enough air moves is during high wind.Think the fan deal might be overkill. Simple daily wind should suffice. Your mower so build it up if you like. As you are doing, build some kind of lean-to shed deal'io.
This may be a moot point, though- the cost of living here has become unaffordable- the shiny new property tax and water bills arrived and the increases are insane, so I'm not staying here.
#13
7394
7394
Life is trying to price us out of living...
#14
G
Gym123
I'm trying to understand why my water bill is $200/quarter when average use is only 4,000 gallons. I mean, I know why- it's all of the fees for environmental, sewer, etc but it's ridiculous. And I can't have a well because of the water quality in this area.
G
Gym123
Life is trying to price us out of living...
I'm trying to understand why my water bill is $200/quarter when average use is only 4,000 gallons. I mean, I know why- it's all of the fees for environmental, sewer, etc but it's ridiculous. And I can't have a well because of the water quality in this area.
#15
7394
7394
I used to have septic, on city water, bill was $28 month.
Friends that have city sewer pay 75% more than the water bill..
Friends that have city sewer pay 75% more than the water bill..
#16
G
Gym123
This city has lost its charm......
G
Gym123
One problem here is that the bill for my duplex shows two fees that are twice as much as a single family home and when I traded messages with the Mayor (small city), he thought I have two water mains and sewer laterals. It's not a lot per quarter, but over more than 25 years, it adds up. We have our own water treatment facility and they just spent a bundle for improvements- I don't remember seeing any notices about it, just that the rates were going up.I used to have septic, on city water, bill was $28 month.
Friends that have city sewer pay 75% more than the water bill..
This city has lost its charm......
#17
H
Honest Abe
H
Honest Abe
buy some Moth Balls and put them into a baggie, pin prick the baggie a lot, then place the baggie under the cowl and on top of the engine shroud to keep rodents from building any nests in there ....
#18
G
g-man57
G
g-man57
Yup - mothballs work good. We put mothballs, under plastic, on the seats of our boats. Also, for storage, I stuff a dryer sheet into mower exhausts and over the air cleaner box. I use discarded plastic food containers with holes in them.buy some Moth Balls and put them into a baggie, pin prick the baggie a lot, then place the baggie under the cowl and on top of the engine shroud to keep rodents from building any nests in there ....
#19
C
Chuckers
If that includes sewage charge then there are probably few places in the USA paying that little for 3 months water/sewer. I live alone and my bill is about the same at $68-75/mo. In fact, that's rock bottom because the minimum bill in my county without any water usage is $66 then the water usage/sewage is billed by tier. I never leave tier 1 which is 1700 gallons at $0.002/gallon ($0.001 for usage and $0.001 for sewage) so the vast majority of my bill is just the service charge - I only actually use only $2-7 worth of water a month. Little higher in summer with the garden. People pay a lot more than us around the USA.
C
Chuckers
I'm trying to understand why my water bill is $200/quarter when average use is only 4,000 gallons. I mean, I know why- it's all of the fees for environmental, sewer, etc but it's ridiculous. And I can't have a well because of the water quality in this area.
If that includes sewage charge then there are probably few places in the USA paying that little for 3 months water/sewer. I live alone and my bill is about the same at $68-75/mo. In fact, that's rock bottom because the minimum bill in my county without any water usage is $66 then the water usage/sewage is billed by tier. I never leave tier 1 which is 1700 gallons at $0.002/gallon ($0.001 for usage and $0.001 for sewage) so the vast majority of my bill is just the service charge - I only actually use only $2-7 worth of water a month. Little higher in summer with the garden. People pay a lot more than us around the USA.
#20
Z
Zedo
Z
Zedo
Yes. I agree rodents can really do a lot of damage to a mower stored outside.buy some Moth Balls and put them into a baggie, pin prick the baggie a lot, then place the baggie under the cowl and on top of the engine shroud to keep rodents from building any nests in there ....
#21
R
rhkraft
R
rhkraft
Store in a closed structure if possible. The air is drier and it keeps moisture out. Damp air outside with large temp changes will cause condensation in the gas tank and carb. Stabil helps if added in the fall. Run some through the carb by running the engine. On riders remove the battery and store in your garage. Charge and charge again mid -winter. Tarps draped over mowers don't allow enough air circulation to keep things dry. Build a frame of some kind with a plywood/OSB top. I have a push mower I bought in 1991 and kept in a closed shed. It still starts in the spring on the first or second pull. The only maintenance is regular oil and filter changes and stabil in the tank and carb for winter storage. I had to put a new pull cord on about 10 years ago and some new rear wheels about 5 years - the plastic tires literally just dried and broke up. 34 years old and still runs great.
#22
J
jviews12
J
jviews12
I ALWAYS run gas engines dry. I clean the tank (hot water & soap ) and dry on the shop counter, then reinstall. Blow out lines. I really like the fogging idea. Used it on my boats.
If you are ANAL LIKE ME, ROTATE THE PISTON to TOP to close valves. Prevents outside air from entering chamber and rusting/sticking rings.
If you are ANAL LIKE ME, ROTATE THE PISTON to TOP to close valves. Prevents outside air from entering chamber and rusting/sticking rings.
#23
W
will55912
W
will55912
DO NOT USE ANY GASOLINE WITH ETHANOL IN IT!!!! Fill the tank completely with non-oxygenated gasoline (Premium gas or 91 and higher octane) will do, but the pump where you purchase your gas will state that it is this, or will state for the used of recreational vehicles. Been my experience to keep a full tank of gas over the winter time with Sta-bil fuel stabilizer. Never had a problem. I used to completely drain the gas, but the cork seals, etc on the carb dry out and deteriorate, and leak.I removed almost all of the gas and ran it dry, but I do add StaBil for gas with Ethanol. It's really not hard or time consuming to do this stuff and I had lubed everything when I got it. Battery is out, tires are up, engine is fogged. Twice, since I had to start it in order to go over the edge of the slab.
Not sure who worked on it before, but the complaint from the previous owner was "White smoke" and when I looked in the tank, I saw tiny grass clippings and parts from a spout from a CA compliant gas container. Since it requires removing a whole two bolts and a hose clamp to disconnect it from the filter, I drained the tank and let the gas settle- it went into a 1 liter water bottle and it was very cloudy. No phase separation, but I saw more than 1/2" of water at the bottom after it settled. The rest looked fine and smelled fresh. The white smoke ended as soon as I ran it with fresh gas. OTOH, the blue smoke that couldn't be seen before, was pretty dense.
#24
G
Gym123
I was checking the auger on the two stage blower yesterday and when I tipped it forward, I noticed grass and other stuff coming out of the area where the belts/disc, etc are, so I'll have to clean that out again. Last Winter was the first time for outside storage, but it was full after storing it inside, too.
G
Gym123
I don't have a choice unless I want to drive a long way to find gas that doesn't have Ethanol but I never have problems starting any of my engines. I don't run them dry, but I do run them low with stabilizer in the gas can which goes in as soon as I buy it, so anything I put in the tank on a machine has already been treated. When I start the ones with a pull cord, I prime (if it has a bulb), then pull the cord gently a few times to build compression and pull gas into the cylinder before the first attempt, which is usually successful. I think I pulled the two stage snowblower cord about a foot and that's all it needed.DO NOT USE ANY GASOLINE WITH ETHANOL IN IT!!!! Fill the tank completely with non-oxygenated gasoline (Premium gas or 91 and higher octane) will do, but the pump where you purchase your gas will state that it is this, or will state for the used of recreational vehicles. Been my experience to keep a full tank of gas over the winter time with Sta-bil fuel stabilizer. Never had a problem. I used to completely drain the gas, but the cork seals, etc on the carb dry out and deteriorate, and leak.
I was checking the auger on the two stage blower yesterday and when I tipped it forward, I noticed grass and other stuff coming out of the area where the belts/disc, etc are, so I'll have to clean that out again. Last Winter was the first time for outside storage, but it was full after storing it inside, too.
#25
grumpyunk
If you can decant successfully, you can leave the water at the bottom of the container. Whatever you pour off has no ETOH in it any more. It should not absorb H2O any more either.
You can search a bit on YT to see videos demonstrating different methods and means to remove the ETOH from adulterated gasoline.
You will effectively lose 10-12% of your fuel by volume as the ETOH falls out. I do not remember the math, but when you add even mixes of ETOH and Gasoline, you do not end up with 2X the volume as the two are miscible and make less volume. A magic trick of old. Maybe it was water and ETOH, not too sure any more.
But this will get you ETOH free fuel.
tom
grumpyunk
Make you own ethanol-free fuel. If you add enough water to a container of E-10, it will combine with the ETOH and being denser, will fall to the bottom of the container. Above the layer of water is fuel without any ETOH mixed in.I don't have a choice unless I want to drive a long way to find gas that doesn't have Ethanol
If you can decant successfully, you can leave the water at the bottom of the container. Whatever you pour off has no ETOH in it any more. It should not absorb H2O any more either.
You can search a bit on YT to see videos demonstrating different methods and means to remove the ETOH from adulterated gasoline.
You will effectively lose 10-12% of your fuel by volume as the ETOH falls out. I do not remember the math, but when you add even mixes of ETOH and Gasoline, you do not end up with 2X the volume as the two are miscible and make less volume. A magic trick of old. Maybe it was water and ETOH, not too sure any more.
But this will get you ETOH free fuel.
tom
#26
G
Gym123
G
Gym123
I have heard about doing this, but would need to have major, constant problems in order to really have the need. It wouldn't be hard to do, though- find a clear container, add a valve at the bottom and drain the water out or use a fuel water separator for a boat. Either would work.Make you own ethanol-free fuel. If you add enough water to a container of E-10, it will combine with the ETOH and being denser, will fall to the bottom of the container. Above the layer of water is fuel without any ETOH mixed in.
If you can decant successfully, you can leave the water at the bottom of the container. Whatever you pour off has no ETOH in it any more. It should not absorb H2O any more either.
You can search a bit on YT to see videos demonstrating different methods and means to remove the ETOH from adulterated gasoline.
You will effectively lose 10-12% of your fuel by volume as the ETOH falls out. I do not remember the math, but when you add even mixes of ETOH and Gasoline, you do not end up with 2X the volume as the two are miscible and make less volume. A magic trick of old. Maybe it was water and ETOH, not too sure any more.
But this will get you ETOH free fuel.
tom
#27
G
GearHead36
G
GearHead36
Ethanol is an octane booster. Removing it lowers octane. So if you do this, start out with premium (91-93 octane) fuel.Make you own ethanol-free fuel. If you add enough water to a container of E-10, it will combine with the ETOH and being denser, will fall to the bottom of the container. Above the layer of water is fuel without any ETOH mixed in.
If you can decant successfully, you can leave the water at the bottom of the container. Whatever you pour off has no ETOH in it any more. It should not absorb H2O any more either.
You can search a bit on YT to see videos demonstrating different methods and means to remove the ETOH from adulterated gasoline.
You will effectively lose 10-12% of your fuel by volume as the ETOH falls out. I do not remember the math, but when you add even mixes of ETOH and Gasoline, you do not end up with 2X the volume as the two are miscible and make less volume. A magic trick of old. Maybe it was water and ETOH, not too sure any more.
But this will get you ETOH free fuel.
tom
#28
G
Gym123
True. Less energy dense than gasoline, too.
G
Gym123
Ethanol is an octane booster. Removing it lowers octane. So if you do this, start out with premium (91-93 octane) fuel.
True. Less energy dense than gasoline, too.
#29
grumpyunk
grumpyunk
Tell me the compression ratio of these OPE engines. My bet is none of them would even note the difference in octane with or without the ETOH being present. Most are pretty low stressed designs, and likely could work fine with lowered octane.
I will not tell anyone to buy a particular grade, just stating I think it would cause no problem to run with 87 rated fuel that has had the ETOH precipitated.
Try it both ways, and see. Take a quart of 87 rated E10, add water, and decant the gasoline. See if it has a problem, or just do the same with some 91/93 rated fuel. Some, (not all?) of the mid and high grades are supplied without a 10% portion of ETOH added, but testing with water should demonstrate whether they do or do not. There are graduated cylinders marked so you can add specific amounts of adulterated gasoline to, then add calculated amounts of H2O, and determine the percentage of ETOH in the fuel. That way you know your 'E' number.
I posted the note about making ETOH free fuel so those who cannot find it locally can make their own, nothing beyond that.
tom
I will not tell anyone to buy a particular grade, just stating I think it would cause no problem to run with 87 rated fuel that has had the ETOH precipitated.
Try it both ways, and see. Take a quart of 87 rated E10, add water, and decant the gasoline. See if it has a problem, or just do the same with some 91/93 rated fuel. Some, (not all?) of the mid and high grades are supplied without a 10% portion of ETOH added, but testing with water should demonstrate whether they do or do not. There are graduated cylinders marked so you can add specific amounts of adulterated gasoline to, then add calculated amounts of H2O, and determine the percentage of ETOH in the fuel. That way you know your 'E' number.
I posted the note about making ETOH free fuel so those who cannot find it locally can make their own, nothing beyond that.
tom
#30
G
Gym123
Fuel quality isn't important in these- I ran out of gas with an old push mower and didn't want to leave one strip, nor did I want to go to a gas station, so I mixed some Mineral Spirits and Denatured Alcohol, just to finish- it ran fine. I wouldn't do that with a new engine, though- that mower was free and very old but I used it for a few years after, so....
When I do fuel tests and see water or milky water/Alcohol, I do pour off the clean gas and save the crap, to drop it off at a waste dropoff site.
G
Gym123
Tell me the compression ratio of these OPE engines. My bet is none of them would even note the difference in octane with or without the ETOH being present. Most are pretty low stressed designs, and likely could work fine with lowered octane.
I will not tell anyone to buy a particular grade, just stating I think it would cause no problem to run with 87 rated fuel that has had the ETOH precipitated.
Try it both ways, and see. Take a quart of 87 rated E10, add water, and decant the gasoline. See if it has a problem, or just do the same with some 91/93 rated fuel. Some, (not all?) of the mid and high grades are supplied without a 10% portion of ETOH added, but testing with water should demonstrate whether they do or do not. There are graduated cylinders marked so you can add specific amounts of adulterated gasoline to, then add calculated amounts of H2O, and determine the percentage of ETOH in the fuel. That way you know your 'E' number.
I posted the note about making ETOH free fuel so those who cannot find it locally can make their own, nothing beyond that.
tom
Fuel quality isn't important in these- I ran out of gas with an old push mower and didn't want to leave one strip, nor did I want to go to a gas station, so I mixed some Mineral Spirits and Denatured Alcohol, just to finish- it ran fine. I wouldn't do that with a new engine, though- that mower was free and very old but I used it for a few years after, so....
When I do fuel tests and see water or milky water/Alcohol, I do pour off the clean gas and save the crap, to drop it off at a waste dropoff site.
#31
G
GearHead36
G
GearHead36
The old flathead engines have very low compression. The new OHV engine have higher CR's, but I don't know what they are. If I were making E0 for a flathead, then I wouldn't worry about low octane. Not sure if that would work with an OHV engine.Tell me the compression ratio of these OPE engines. My bet is none of them would even note the difference in octane with or without the ETOH being present. Most are pretty low stressed designs, and likely could work fine with lowered octane.
I will not tell anyone to buy a particular grade, just stating I think it would cause no problem to run with 87 rated fuel that has had the ETOH precipitated.
Try it both ways, and see. Take a quart of 87 rated E10, add water, and decant the gasoline. See if it has a problem, or just do the same with some 91/93 rated fuel. Some, (not all?) of the mid and high grades are supplied without a 10% portion of ETOH added, but testing with water should demonstrate whether they do or do not. There are graduated cylinders marked so you can add specific amounts of adulterated gasoline to, then add calculated amounts of H2O, and determine the percentage of ETOH in the fuel. That way you know your 'E' number.
I posted the note about making ETOH free fuel so those who cannot find it locally can make their own, nothing beyond that.
tom
#32
S
slomo
S
slomo
Same here.I used to completely drain the gas, but the cork seals, etc on the carb dry out and deteriorate, and leak.
#33
7394
7394
ditto
#34
grumpyunk
grumpyunk
If your are using machines that have cork seals in their carburetors, you likely can make your own ETOH free fuel and have adequate octane for use without worry. I do not think I have anything newer than 1990 that has cork seals. anywhere that I know of. I have a Craftsman(AYP) push mower with a Tecumseh that may have one in the carb, but I have not taken it apart beyond the float bowl since the 1980's. There is a cork gasket on the spring box where the tappets meet the valve stem. The cork did not seem to mind adulterated gasoline. I guess I dodged a cork bullet?
#36
7394
7394
That's my main reason I keep my stuff full of 100% gas..For me it's mainly rubber fuel line and trimmer lines that would dry out and crack.