Honda engine with oil in the combustion chamber

[primerbulb120]

I think you need to try a real spark tester. If the paperclip is grounded against the valve cover, it isn't going to spark.

 

[KrashnKraka]

Thanks, Iron.

I didn't see any contacts in the ignition circuit. I think the position of the magnet on the flywheel determines the timing of the spark. I will have to check the coil for continuity this weekend.

The term "wet and dry" is used here too, as well as in NZ where I was living for a few years.

Bloke (Iron) is calling the coil faces "contacts", the two legs of the coil module.
And he is quite correct - the laminations, whilst corrosion resistant, do foul up.
In some builds a scrap along the laminations with a hacksaw blade cleans between
them best. And for mine, emery tape (25mm/1") is over wetNdry.

It is how one leg of the module lines up with the flywheel magnet that determines
TDC firing timing - check your manual for exact position.

Trust that helps some - a collective effort from Down Under

KK

 

[philso]

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

Got it running yesterday. The main jet, the main nozzle (brass tube), the pilot jet and the orifices in the carb body for the pilot jet were all plugged up. I took it all apart following the instructions on the outdoorpowerinfo.com website and soaked them all in a tub of denatured alcohol to loosen up the gunk. I had to push the main nozzle out of the carb body using an L-shaped piece of stiff wire since it was held in place by some of the crud. A sewing needle was needed to clear the small holes in the main nozzle. I used the flutes on the side of a small drill bit to clean the gunk out of the hole through the middle of the main nozzle as well as other deep holes in the carb body by plunging it into the hole and pulling back out. A large (100 cc) syringe was used to flush alcohol through the different passages in the carb body until no more crud came out and I could see fluid come out of all the orifices in the carb body for the pilot jet.

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/#id_honda

After letting it all dry out and re-assembling it, the generator started up after a few pulls and ran until the tank was dry. I now know what IlEngine was referring to when he said "it will end your mosquito problems for a few minutes." I had to stand upwind until all the oil burnt off

I think in the future, I will drop the carb float bowl and the fuel valve bowl and blow all the fuel out of the carb before putting the generator into storage.

 

[KrashnKraka]

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

Got it running yesterday.

You bewdy... well done!:cloud9:

After letting it all dry out and re-assembling it, the generator started up after a few pulls and ran until the tank was dry. I now know what IlEngine was referring to when he said "it will end your mosquito problems for a few minutes." I had to stand upwind until all the oil burnt off

Yeup...can get a bit "rank" ...as they say

I think in the future, I will drop the carb float bowl and the fuel valve bowl and blow all the fuel out of the carb before putting the generator into storage.

Fuel tap to "off" and run the engine to its stop, usually enough of a preventative.

Great to read you are away, good one

KK