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Hello

I just found this forum and all the good advice on it. I understand you focus on lawn mowers and other garden equipment but I could not find any other forums focused on small engine repair.

I have a Porter Cable H451CS with a Honda GX-270 9 hp engine and 67 hours on the clock. It has not run for a few years and I am trying to get it going again. I replaced the spark plug, fuel lines and the fuel filter. I had left some fuel in the tank when I put it away and it had turned to something like molasses. I used some denatured alcohol to rinse it out. I wiped a lot of dust and cobwebs off the frame. At one point I turned it on it's side (carb side down) to get at the lower parts. After putting the tank and fuel lines back on, I checked the oil level. It was a bit low so I topped it off.

I tried pulling the pull cord and found that it wouldn't budge. I removed the spark plug thinking there may be fluid in the combustion chamber. When I gave the pull cord another pull, a stream of engine oil shot out of the spark plug hole. I suspect the oil may have gotten into the combustion chamber when I tipped it on it's side to clean underneath. I hope to suck the rest of the oil out using a syringe and some tubing via the spark plug hole. Should I rinse the combustion chamber out with some alcohol or some carb cleaner spray? The spark plug will probably hve to be washed off with some alcohol to remove the oil. Is there anything else I should do before trying to start it again?

Thanks.

Phil

Get as much oil out of the cylinder and intake, May also want to remove the carb bowl, because oil can also collect there also. And then try starting the mower outside because it will end your mosquito problems for a few minutes.

philso said:

,,,with a Honda GX-270 9 hp engine and 67 hours on the clock. It has not run for a few years and I am trying to get it going again. I replaced the spark plug, fuel lines and the fuel filter. I had left some fuel in the tank when I put it away and it had turned to something like molasses.

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The entire fuel system (tank, lines, filter, and probably carburetor) will need spotless cleaning in order to properly deliver fuel to the engine. While the tank/line are usually not too difficult, the carburetor has many intricate holes, valves, and passageways, so a proper cleaning decayed fuel could be quite difficult. Often, it is far easier to simply replace the carburetor. There were many different types of carburetors Honda fitted to various models of the GX270 engine. To get the correct carburetor (and I'd suggest gaskets too), we need to start with the engine's serial number, stamped onto the side of the engine block. It will be in the form of GXXX-1234567. With that number, you can look-up the correct parts at Honda's parts look-up site. This page will also help you locate a local Honda dealer where the parts can be purchased. Also, many Honda dealers sell online too, so you can just Google a part number to find them easily.

Honda Power Equipment, Engines and Marine Factory Parts Lookup

philso said:

Hello

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G'day, welcome.

The spark plug will probably hve to be washed off with some alcohol to remove the oil. Is there anything else I should do before trying to start it again?

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Take note of other advice re cleaning oil from cavities, and always drain oil
if tipping an engine for more than a minute.
The engine having sat for some time it would pay to also check the topend
flywheel components and clean any debri/rust/dust from the magneto/coil surfaces.
Check and set the airgap while you are there, the manual should have timing marks
and airgap numbers for you.

Trust it works out for you.

Thanks.

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...yer most welcome:thumbsup:

Thanks for all the info.

I had removed the float bowl and cleaned out the crud with alcohol and sprayed the float mechanism and the carb throat with a can of carb cleaner.

From what Robert said, the jets, etc. in the carb may be plugged up. I did not flush it out from the fuel inlet. I will try that this weekend. If that fails, there is a Porter Cable service center and a Honda car dealer that sells small Honda engine stuff like generators not too far from where I work.

Here's a link on how to thoroughly clean a typical Honda carburetor:
How to Clean a Honda Carburetor
You'll need some aerosol carb cleaner, compressed air, and skill handling small parts. A clean work area is a must, too.

Plan B is just replace the carb; for many Honda engines, this is under $20. Look up using this official site (need serial number off back of the mower deck):
Honda Power Equipment, Engines and Marine Factory Parts Lookup

Once you have the correct part number for your mower, Google any part number to find a Honda Dealer selling it online, or use this link to find a Honda Dealer in your area: Find A Honda Dealer

I just found a thread on this forum that linked to instructions on how to clean out one of these carburetors. I will have to do a bit more work this weekend.

I did try running it. It would not catch and there was no smell of unburnt fuel so the carb is probably still plugged up.

I tried checking the spark by pulling the spark plug cable, inserting a bent paperclip into the socket at the end of the cable and holding it against the valve cover while my son pulled the cord. There were no sparks to be seen. Could this be another problem?

Thanks again, Robert.

It looks like our posts "crossed in the aether".

Is the document you linked available elsewhere? It looks like I have to be a forum member to get access.

philso said:

I just found a thread on this forum that linked to instructions on how to clean out one of these carburetors. I will have to do a bit more work this weekend.

I did try running it. It would not catch and there was no smell of unburnt fuel so the carb is probably still plugged up.

I tried checking the spark by pulling the spark plug cable, inserting a bent paperclip into the socket at the end of the cable and holding it against the valve cover while my son pulled the cord. There were no sparks to be seen. Could this be another problem?

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It could be the coil buddy.....try cleaning the contacts with some wet and dry paper,and also the magnets on the flywheel.
We call it wet and dry paper here in Australia..maybe you call it something else ...Hope this helps

IRON said:

It could be the coil buddy.....try cleaning the contacts with some wet and dry paper,and also the magnets on the flywheel.
We call it wet and dry paper here in Australia..maybe you call it something else ...Hope this helps

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Thanks, Iron.

I didn't see any contacts in the ignition circuit. I think the position of the magnet on the flywheel determines the timing of the spark. I will have to check the coil for continuity this weekend.

The term "wet and dry" is used here too, as well as in NZ where I was living for a few years.

I think you need to try a real spark tester. If the paperclip is grounded against the valve cover, it isn't going to spark.

philso said:

Thanks, Iron.

I didn't see any contacts in the ignition circuit. I think the position of the magnet on the flywheel determines the timing of the spark. I will have to check the coil for continuity this weekend.

The term "wet and dry" is used here too, as well as in NZ where I was living for a few years.

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Bloke (Iron) is calling the coil faces "contacts", the two legs of the coil module.
And he is quite correct - the laminations, whilst corrosion resistant, do foul up.
In some builds a scrap along the laminations with a hacksaw blade cleans between
them best. And for mine, emery tape (25mm/1") is over wetNdry.

It is how one leg of the module lines up with the flywheel magnet that determines
TDC firing timing - check your manual for exact position.

Trust that helps some - a collective effort from Down Under

KK

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

Got it running yesterday. The main jet, the main nozzle (brass tube), the pilot jet and the orifices in the carb body for the pilot jet were all plugged up. I took it all apart following the instructions on the outdoorpowerinfo.com website and soaked them all in a tub of denatured alcohol to loosen up the gunk. I had to push the main nozzle out of the carb body using an L-shaped piece of stiff wire since it was held in place by some of the crud. A sewing needle was needed to clear the small holes in the main nozzle. I used the flutes on the side of a small drill bit to clean the gunk out of the hole through the middle of the main nozzle as well as other deep holes in the carb body by plunging it into the hole and pulling back out. A large (100 cc) syringe was used to flush alcohol through the different passages in the carb body until no more crud came out and I could see fluid come out of all the orifices in the carb body for the pilot jet.

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/#id_honda

After letting it all dry out and re-assembling it, the generator started up after a few pulls and ran until the tank was dry. I now know what IlEngine was referring to when he said "it will end your mosquito problems for a few minutes." I had to stand upwind until all the oil burnt off

I think in the future, I will drop the carb float bowl and the fuel valve bowl and blow all the fuel out of the carb before putting the generator into storage.

philso said:

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

Got it running yesterday.

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You bewdy... well done!:cloud9:

After letting it all dry out and re-assembling it, the generator started up after a few pulls and ran until the tank was dry. I now know what IlEngine was referring to when he said "it will end your mosquito problems for a few minutes." I had to stand upwind until all the oil burnt off

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Yeup...can get a bit "rank" ...as they say

I think in the future, I will drop the carb float bowl and the fuel valve bowl and blow all the fuel out of the carb before putting the generator into storage.

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Fuel tap to "off" and run the engine to its stop, usually enough of a preventative.

Great to read you are away, good one

KK