Help with information on lower drive belt, please?

[jstpsgthru]

The service manual states shows two drive systems for this product. I have the "Hydrogear" version. There is also an IVT transmission, but it only has one drive belt, as well.

There is a "caution" that using a non-OEM belt may prevent the de-clutching mechanism from working properly WHEN THE BRAKES ARE APPLIED (emphasis is mine.)

So, if there was a difference of .2" that makes the belt too tight when new, is it likely that small a difference will fade and possibly correct the problem? I'm thinking maybe.

BTW, I think a service shop would probably want to sell me more stuff and labor, if the tension arm pivot was loose.

Thanks to everyone that has offered help. I am going to ride for a while and see if there is improvement. Hopefully, I won't break anything.

 

[StarTech]

If you have a PDF copy of the service manual I like to get a copy for my files. That way I can share it with fellow techs when needed.

You can send to this temp Email account.

amu7k65lp@mozmail.com

 

[jstpsgthru]

If you have a PDF copy of the service manual I like to get a copy for my files. That way I can share it with fellow techs when needed.

You can send to this temp Email account.

amu7k65lp@mozmail.com

Mechanic Mark put the link in his reply. It is the link for "Cub Cadet Service Manuals." Look for the "i series" box, maybe half way down.

 

[StarTech]

Tnx for pointing that out. I was having a brain fart on this end. It didn't dawn me that the "I series" cover the 1040. I was kinda something labeled as i1000 series.

I had already DL that file back in 2021 so it is already available the forum I manage members.

Again Tnx for the redirect, much appreciated.

 

[Denali94]

"Two techs said there was nothing that can be done; it is because the belt is too tight and will decrease with time."

Just a quick side note here. It is my understanding that today's mower drive and deck belts, due to both design and materials, do not "stretch". They will however "wear" causing them to ride improperly in the v-grooves giving the impression that they have lengthened or stretched. If the belt is too tight it is either the wrong size belt or there is a another mechanical issue.

 

[Cajun power]

for what it's worth: check tensioner puller arm...make sure it swings freely...sometimes they get stuck with rust, corrosion, grass muck...etc. check this at the pulley wheel bearing and also the pulley arm. While you have it unloaded from spring pressure, see if the tensioner pulley rocks around. Sometimes they get beat up and do not move in the correct lever motion under spring force.

also check the tensioner spring and make sure is set into the proper hole in the frame. My nephew has a cub cadet zero (zr1 ultima)..when he changed the belt, he removed the belt tensioner spring to install the belt (did not know he could just push the tensioner over to slip the belt)...when he put it all back together, he did not notice the correct spring hole to use and the spring was hard stretched. He had also inverted the spring and it was directly striking the belt in rotation. After we relocated the spring to the correct position hole in the frame and turned it correct side down, worked as it should. I also put a slight bend in the end of the spring to prevent it from falling out when unloaded.

 

[TobyU]

Thank you, very much. I called CC years ago, and was told they no longer had a service manual for my mower. I put it out of my mind. But, the link you provide has the i-series service manual!

I now have the owner's manual, parts manual and service manual.

I am 72 yo, definitely not a mechanic, and my health restricts some activities. I change filters and even remove the deck for cleaning and changing blades. I was pretty sure I didn't want to get on the ground to wrestle with the PTO. I thought the PTO had to be removed. Also, other sources led me to believe that steering rods needed to be realigned (which I was unsure of.) My main reason for wanting to know much more about the mower is to avoid bad experiences.

Thanks, again, for the link.

I don't have time to read this entire thread but two things on most Cub cadets or other MTD mowers.
I can't believe a tech would replace just the lower belt if it's a two belt double sheave pulley drive system!

I have found you never want to replace just one belt even if the other one looks great or nearly New unless it literally has only been on for no more than one time mowing like less than a week.
They just don't pay lastly and if you don't put two brand new Factory original belts on at the same time you will have jumping, chattering, slow top speed, etc.
Now I just mentioned the other thing - Factory of original belts!

I have seen nothing but trouble out of aftermarket belts and that they either don't work properly, I.E not engaged properly or all the way or smoothly or don't disengage all the way like I'm late belts or even if they do work they simply don't last very long.

I will not tolerate any of the above.

I get mowers that come in all the time that are 17 years old minimum that still have the original belts on them. These belts are cracked, chunks and pieces are missing one piece and they're still moving the machine and the people are still cutting with it.

They're not the absolute best belts in the business but they are a close second. John Deere has the best belts in the business.
Neither company makes their own belts from what I assume but whoever makes them for them makes a top-notch quality belt..

I will not buy the sunbelt, pix, or even Gates or stands even though the last two are good reputable brands... They just don't have as good of a belt as the factory MTD or the John Deere.

It's simply not worth saving 8 or 10 dollars on each belt for the short life and the risk of having to do it again.

I tell everybody you can try this or try that but until you put two brand new belts on you're dealing with too many variables that you'll never really know whether that was the only problem or not..

 

[first pull]

Mower = 2007 Cub Cadet i1046 Hours = 400

Please tell me if you have ever come across this and whether I'm being played. Thank you for your kind attention.

I just had a Cub dealer replace the lower drive belt. Mower sounds fine when driving, but applying the brake makes the belt wobble and makes a vibration (sometimes flapping) sound. The dealer put it on the rack and showed me how applying the brake affects the belt. It doesn't look normal.

Two techs said there was nothing that can be done; it is because the belt is too tight and will decrease with time. I don't know if this means decreased belt life.

Thanks, again, for your help.

Sounds a little fishy to me.

 

[first pull]

I don't have time to read this entire thread but two things on most Cub cadets or other MTD mowers.
I can't believe a tech would replace just the lower belt if it's a two belt double sheave pulley drive system!

I have found you never want to replace just one belt even if the other one looks great or nearly New unless it literally has only been on for no more than one time mowing like less than a week.
They just don't pay lastly and if you don't put two brand new Factory original belts on at the same time you will have jumping, chattering, slow top speed, etc.
Now I just mentioned the other thing - Factory of original belts!

I have seen nothing but trouble out of aftermarket belts and that they either don't work properly, I.E not engaged properly or all the way or smoothly or don't disengage all the way like I'm late belts or even if they do work they simply don't last very long.

I will not tolerate any of the above.

I get mowers that come in all the time that are 17 years old minimum that still have the original belts on them. These belts are cracked, chunks and pieces are missing one piece and they're still moving the machine and the people are still cutting with it.

They're not the absolute best belts in the business but they are a close second. John Deere has the best belts in the business.
Neither company makes their own belts from what I assume but whoever makes them for them makes a top-notch quality belt..

I will not buy the sunbelt, pix, or even Gates or stands even though the last two are good reputable brands... They just don't have as good of a belt as the factory MTD or the John Deere.

It's simply not worth saving 8 or 10 dollars on each belt for the short life and the risk of having to do it again.

I tell everybody you can try this or try that but until you put two brand new belts on you're dealing with too many variables that you'll never really know whether that was the only problem or not..

Probably the pulleys are worn out, I have seen this more often than you might think. The pulleys are worn too deeply so the repair shops put the next size smaller belt on and tell you it has to wear in.

 

[STEVES]

New belt, should be able to find part number on it, at least rule that out if factory belt. Like said, pulley grooves could be worn grabbing belt.