Help with ID and compression, pretty please.

StarTech

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What you seen on the valve prices was the OS intake that is so expensive. But personally I wouldn't be tapping a stuck valve back in as if rusted it can damage the valve guide making the OS valve necessary. Plus you need a reamer to oversize the valve guide. Another 30+ dollars.
 

PTmowerMech

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What you seen on the valve prices was the OS intake that is so expensive. But personally I wouldn't be tapping a stuck valve back in as if rusted it can damage the valve guide making the OS valve necessary. Plus you need a reamer to oversize the valve guide. Another 30+ dollars.

Well I've tried hollering at it. And it won't budge. I may have to get physical with it. lol
 

StarTech

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Yes you need to get physical with it. Just try not to do more damage. I rather pull it out and replace whenever possible but I don't like make do repairs myself as they always have comeback to bite me in the tail feathers. Usually taking a lot of them and some skin too. :LOL:
 
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Hammermechanicman

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I have freed up lots of stuck valves. Unless the valve stem has real rust not just some light surface rust it should be fine. If customer wants him to persue it.
Check the carb throttle shaft for play. The carbs on those tillers are bad for wearing out the shaft and the throttle shaft bore of the carb. Depending on where the piston was when stored may be some surface rust in the cylinder. If engine was stuck may want to pull the head and wipe out any crud. Do you have spark?
 

PTmowerMech

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I have freed up lots of stuck valves. Unless the valve stem has real rust not just some light surface rust it should be fine. If customer wants him to persue it.
Check the carb throttle shaft for play. The carbs on those tillers are bad for wearing out the shaft and the throttle shaft bore of the carb. Depending on where the piston was when stored may be some surface rust in the cylinder. If engine was stuck may want to pull the head and wipe out any crud. Do you have spark?

Yes, I have spark.
 

Hammermechanicman

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Probably worth reviving. Aftermarket carbs are cheap. About the only thing that kills those old engines was blown rods and worn out carbs.
 

PTmowerMech

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Probably worth reviving. Aftermarket carbs are cheap. About the only thing that kills those old engines was blown rods and worn out carbs.

With all this corona virus epidemic, I should've bought more tillers this winter. I'd be making a killing right now. Had 3 calls in the last week. I hope this guy wants to put out the money for this one.
It'll probably need to have the valves cleaned & adjusted. I haven't done a flat head in a while.
 

Hammermechanicman

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Adjust the valves on a flathead? I usually find once the valve stems are filed to the correct gap and unless you cut a seat or install new valves you don't need to adjust lash. Those engines are very forgiving. I would just give them a light lapping if needed. Those old real Troy Bilt tillers are worth putting some money into.
 

PTmowerMech

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Adjust the valves on a flathead? I usually find once the valve stems are filed to the correct gap and unless you cut a seat or install new valves you don't need to adjust lash. Those engines are very forgiving. I would just give them a light lapping if needed. Those old real Troy Bilt tillers are worth putting some money into.


That's what I've heard. But my luck doesn't run that good. Got my fingers crossed.
 

StarTech

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Yes exactly what needs to be done along with a valve job at the same time. Requires removing the valves and filing squarely. Got to be careful not to over do it. And the clearance are checked with the spring installed. L-head tend to close up the clearances until they are negative as where OHV tend open up the clearances leading to ACRs not working.
 
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