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I have a Snapper RP215517HC (84905) 21" 5.5 Hp Steel Deck with a Honda GCV 160 engine,
engine block markings: GJAEA-1742851, A1A*.
Due to a bent crankshaft, I need a replacement engine and am having a tough time on line determining the correct engine with Snapper shaft dimensions.
any help??

with it being almost 20 years old have you considered just replacing it? I know usually over that time other parts start to wear out, decks rot, crack, transmissions wear. Or maybe look on FB marketplace, or CL to see who is trying to get rid of old snapper mowers near you. Sometimes the motor is still fine but needs a carb or something, wheels falling off. Might find a good motor on one. There are probably 10 for sale used here near Sacto plus at least one guy collecting them who has parts.

sgkent said:

with it being almost 20 years old have you considered just replacing it? I know usually over that time other parts start to wear out, decks rot, crack, transmissions wear. Or maybe look on FB marketplace, or CL to see who is trying to get rid of old snapper mowers near you. Sometimes the motor is still fine but needs a carb or something, wheels falling off. Might find a good motor on one. There are probably 10 for sale used here near Sacto plus at least one guy collecting them who has parts.

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Thanks for the reply. This mower has maybe one season on it, and everything is in perfect shape...much better materials and workmanship than mowers currently available. With a new motor, it should out last my mowing days.

I did find this one site that seems better priced than others if they have something that fits new. https://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/Repower-Old-Equipment/Repower-Snapper

Smallenginewarehouse is where we use to order our engines from. They bought engines damaged in shipping or shop foreclosures. They grind the serial numbers off because the engines have no factory warranty. You need to measure your crankshaft to find the correct replacement. It will have a metric crank. You need to measure in MM. If you have a bagger. The side chute may hit the corner of the new engine. We used to heat the plastic chute and push it in to clear the corner of the fuel tanks.

using Star Tech's diagram, 22.2 mm is 7/8" . 86.7mm is 3.41" = 3 13/32". 3 3/5" is 3.6"

Thank you all for the replies.
Measured with caliper, my crank actually measures .750..... 7/8 = .875.
I'll likely have to go with a 7/8" shaft and simply replace the blade hub and drive pully with 7/8" components.

My 2 cents. I had a Briggs with a bent crank shaft. Put the mower on its side, found the high side and hit it with a small sledge. Brought it back in close enough. I'm sure the Pros don't want to hear this but it worked for me. What did I have to lose. I continued to mow with the machine.

???? https://www.brandnewengines.com/pro...ne-7-25-tp-3-4-x-3-5-32-hf-128m02-0010_447517

Try straightening it, then when it is close SELL IT. Not worth the repair effort or cost.

Mattmotors said:

My 2 cents. I had a Briggs with a bent crank shaft. Put the mower on its side, found the high side and hit it with a small sledge. Brought it back in close enough. I'm sure the Pros don't want to hear this but it worked for me. What did I have to lose. I continued to mow with the machine.

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Honda motorcycle service books used to tell max runout that could be fixed and how to straighten with hammer, v-blocks and dial indicator.

they straighten camshafts with a hammer but it isn't what one thinks. The blows are on the opposite side of what one would think. It compresses the steel and bends it towards the blow. With a small one journal crankshaft it is probably twisted too. I'd replace it rather than try to straighten it. And I certainly wouldn't try to dump it after pounding on it, as-is to some unsuspecting buyer. But like they say, Caveat Emptor, let the buyer beware.

Ok gents, I just installed a Briggs and Stratton 104M02-0197-F1 7.25 GT Vertical Shaft Engine as a replacement for the Honda GCV-160.​

This engine has had a few negative comments but I fail to find their rationale.
This engine demonstrates how Briggs has stepped up their game on recent years with the overhead valve engines. My experience couldn't have been better. ( In order to directly bolt to my Snapper High Vac, I did thread the mounting holes, which were predrilled to the correct size).
I mounted the engine, filled the oil (Rotella T6) and gas... it started on the first pull.
I mowed about an hour, occasionally stopping for a few minutes, and it restarted every time on the first pull.
No issues what so ever.
Given that overall condition of this all stout steel mower is in near new (very well cared for...) , and the new equivalent Snapper is pushing $900+
I have a new mower that should outlast my mowing days for only $230.
What's not to like?

I hope it all goes well for you
I replace more carburettors on these engines that everything else ( including all of the cube carbs ) added together and multiplied by 3 .
Wait a season or two and see if you still feel the same
I buy the auto chokes by th box full because I replace so many failed ones , most seem to scrape through the warranty period .

Thanks for the heads up.
I plan to run it dry after each use, and I use Sta-Bil every time I buy gas, although along with the 30 Horse Kawasaki on the 60" Ferris, I don't usually have gas more than 30 days old.
We'll see how the durability goes

When I retired my old Wisconsin Robin 4 stroke engine, I opted to repower with a Kawasaki FJ180V. It's a wonderful replacement engine that Snapper used some time ago. You just have to make sure you order the right shaft length for the Snapper deck, and you will need to change the mounting hole locations in the deck. It also has a 25mm (~1") shaft diameter, so you would need a 1" blade hub (instead of the 7/8") and a 1" drive belt pully. None of this is a big deal.