Hello and Happy Thanksgiving to those who celebrate it! I didn't see a Scotts specific forum, so I'm guessing either I need to post about it here, or I'm the only one on this forum that's foolish enough to own a Scotts lawn tractor. :laughing:
I'm working on installing a snow blade on it for the first time this year, and I'm fabricating it all from scratch. I'm planning to use it for my house, my work (I'm responsible for clearing the parking lots and although I've got a snow blower, it still takes upwards of 3-4 hours to do it), my church, and for helping out any friends and family that need it. I've got a trusty ol' 1991 F-150 and ramps to move it with, but soon I need to get a more family-friendly vehicle so I'll be looking for a small trailer to tow it with.
Pictures to come, but here's what I've done and am planning so far:
I cut the steel for the blade out of an old 100 gallon propane tank (about 12 gauge steel) and I'm going to weld 1/8" steel shoes (cut from flat stock) to each corner. This will save having to purchase material for a wear edge, and 1/8" is enough clearance to avoid most changes in surface level. It's also low enough that simply spreading sand and salt will melt what's left.
The mounting bracket is going to be made from 3/8" flat stock and 1/4"x2"x2" angle iron and (more or less) be square in shape. The flat stock is going to mount to the frame just ahead of the engine. The flat stock will extend out far enough on either side for the angle iron to clear the hood, and then a piece of angle iron will stretch across the front of the hood and connect the angle iron on either side. I'll also be reinforcing the frame as necessary. The one thing I haven't decided on is whether or not to weld the angle iron to the flat stock, or to make it bolt on so that it can be removed during the summer.
For blade-to-bracket attachment and adjustment: there will be a set of "ears" on the blade and the bracket made from 1/4" (possibly 5/16") flat stock. The ears on the blade will have one 9/16" hole drilled (to accept a 1/2" solid rod) and the ears on the bracket will have 2 - 9/16" holes drilled in them, one set in front of the other with about a 1/4" of space between them. The basic idea is that the front set of holes will accept the rod and be used for when I want the blade to be straight ahead. If I want the blade to tilt right or left, I can remove the rod from its respective side, then push the blade back far enough to get the rod into the rearmost hole on the ear (that's what she said). I'm opting for solid rod instead of individual pins b/c if, for example, one side of the blade catches and the other doesn't, the rod will help distribute the force of the impact across both mounting points instead of focusing it all on one.
I'm still looking for ideas on a lifting mechanism and a way to keep the blade off the ground for when I'm loading and unloading it. Obviously it will be manual, but I don't want a lever that's bulky and in the way of being able to climb on and off the tractor. I've thought about making a linkage that would reach back under the tractor and mount to the arms that raise and lower the mower deck, but I'm not sure on the details of how that would work.
I've got 2 new tires on the way from an ebay purchase, and I got a great deal on chains from NAPA.
I've heard that it's useful to have a weight bracket on the rear end and obviously I understand why, but I've no idea what it looks like or what to do/how much weight to add.
...I think that's everything. Ideas/suggestions/criticisms? I'm open to any and all words of wisdom.
Thanks for your time.
I'm working on installing a snow blade on it for the first time this year, and I'm fabricating it all from scratch. I'm planning to use it for my house, my work (I'm responsible for clearing the parking lots and although I've got a snow blower, it still takes upwards of 3-4 hours to do it), my church, and for helping out any friends and family that need it. I've got a trusty ol' 1991 F-150 and ramps to move it with, but soon I need to get a more family-friendly vehicle so I'll be looking for a small trailer to tow it with.
Pictures to come, but here's what I've done and am planning so far:
I cut the steel for the blade out of an old 100 gallon propane tank (about 12 gauge steel) and I'm going to weld 1/8" steel shoes (cut from flat stock) to each corner. This will save having to purchase material for a wear edge, and 1/8" is enough clearance to avoid most changes in surface level. It's also low enough that simply spreading sand and salt will melt what's left.
The mounting bracket is going to be made from 3/8" flat stock and 1/4"x2"x2" angle iron and (more or less) be square in shape. The flat stock is going to mount to the frame just ahead of the engine. The flat stock will extend out far enough on either side for the angle iron to clear the hood, and then a piece of angle iron will stretch across the front of the hood and connect the angle iron on either side. I'll also be reinforcing the frame as necessary. The one thing I haven't decided on is whether or not to weld the angle iron to the flat stock, or to make it bolt on so that it can be removed during the summer.
For blade-to-bracket attachment and adjustment: there will be a set of "ears" on the blade and the bracket made from 1/4" (possibly 5/16") flat stock. The ears on the blade will have one 9/16" hole drilled (to accept a 1/2" solid rod) and the ears on the bracket will have 2 - 9/16" holes drilled in them, one set in front of the other with about a 1/4" of space between them. The basic idea is that the front set of holes will accept the rod and be used for when I want the blade to be straight ahead. If I want the blade to tilt right or left, I can remove the rod from its respective side, then push the blade back far enough to get the rod into the rearmost hole on the ear (that's what she said). I'm opting for solid rod instead of individual pins b/c if, for example, one side of the blade catches and the other doesn't, the rod will help distribute the force of the impact across both mounting points instead of focusing it all on one.
I'm still looking for ideas on a lifting mechanism and a way to keep the blade off the ground for when I'm loading and unloading it. Obviously it will be manual, but I don't want a lever that's bulky and in the way of being able to climb on and off the tractor. I've thought about making a linkage that would reach back under the tractor and mount to the arms that raise and lower the mower deck, but I'm not sure on the details of how that would work.
I've got 2 new tires on the way from an ebay purchase, and I got a great deal on chains from NAPA.
I've heard that it's useful to have a weight bracket on the rear end and obviously I understand why, but I've no idea what it looks like or what to do/how much weight to add.
...I think that's everything. Ideas/suggestions/criticisms? I'm open to any and all words of wisdom.
Thanks for your time.
