Have 12+ volts, but still- starting problem

Rivets

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Threads
59
Messages
15,305
When testing the solenoid do this with your test light. Large terminal coming from battery you should have power, 12V. Small terminal from the key switch you should have power, 12V when the key is turned to the start position. If no power run a jump from the battery terminal to the small terminal. Solenoid should kick in, if it does not the solenoid is bad. If the solenoid kicks in when jumped to the small terminal you have an electrical problem between the key switch and solenoid.
Et us know what happens.
 

rigoletto

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Threads
41
Messages
296
When testing the solenoid do this with your test light. Large terminal coming from battery you should have power, 12V. Small terminal from the key switch you should have power, 12V when the key is turned to the start position. If no power run a jump from the battery terminal to the small terminal. Solenoid should kick in, if it does not the solenoid is bad. If the solenoid kicks in when jumped to the small terminal you have an electrical problem between the key switch and solenoid.
Et us know what happens.

Thanks, rivets. Now, by "small terminal" do you mean that small "blade" terminal going to small guage wire? Cuz the other 2 terminals are big copper bolt type with 10mm nuts on the ends.......
 

Rivets

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Threads
59
Messages
15,305
Yes. When this terminal gets power it energizes the solenoid magnets to connect the two large terminals.
 

EngineMan

Lawn Addict
Joined
Jun 12, 2012
Threads
9
Messages
2,275
And you should get full battery power when you do (lead to starter)
 

rigoletto

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Threads
41
Messages
296
THIS IS COOL. jUMPED THAT WIRE AND GOT CLICK- CLICK- START- CLICKETY CLICK- START-NOTHING

So, yes, I got something out of it but not sure what that means. The starter DID turn a bit, but then went back to click- click. What does this mean? I did have to hold the wire to the smal terminal for a second or 2 before click click- start. Not, by "start" all I mean to say is the starter DID turn- but engine didnt run yet.
 

rigoletto

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Threads
41
Messages
296
Now wait a minute- I just jumped the red hot lead to the other red on the solenoid and the mower started! Man, does that mean solenouid is good and maybe the starter switch is bad?
 

rigoletto

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Threads
41
Messages
296
Yup- started it again, this time with jumping red hot lead on solenoid to the small terminal. So, in conclusion:

I started the mower BOTH by jumping to small terminal AND also jumping to red terminal going to starter.
 

Lawnranger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2012
Threads
6
Messages
671
Yup- started it again, this time with jumping red hot lead on solenoid to the small terminal. So, in conclusion:

I started the mower BOTH by jumping to small terminal AND also jumping to red terminal going to starter.

You did not perform step #2 in my checklist properly. Go back and re-read the post and perform the check properly and this will tell you if the ignition switch is bad or the solenoid.
 

Lawnranger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2012
Threads
6
Messages
671
Update: Wow, I think I figured it out- I tested with test light as advised above (a few posts ago), and the incoming contact (from battery ) on the siolenoid is live, but the other end (end going out of solenoid to starter) is dead/no test light!. Isnt this proof of a bad solenoid, people?

Nope. The other side of the solenoid gets energized when the contacts inside the solenoid connect by power to the small lead on the solenoid which magnetically pulls the contacts together.
 

rigoletto

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Threads
41
Messages
296
OK, thnaks for being patient ranger, with a new guy. I gotta go back to tha drawing board- the post with the steps. Sounds good. Back outside...........
 
Top