Greetings

[Boobala]

Kleles, .. I apologize for the bit of "mayhem" on your thread, as you see, some of us have "issues" with one-another on certain things.
Just wanted to add that since it appears you want to take good care of your new machine, without doubting your intelligence, let me recommend, that ALWAYS !! make sure to check the oil-level before starting the machine, OIL is the life-blood of an engine,you most likely will find much discussion on the subject of oil, follow the owners guides, speaking of, be sure to keep them handy, and also get the PARTS-MANUAL for the mower AND your engine ! "rat-hole" all that in a safe keeping place, along with the machines "numbers" ..see example, and in case you need help from this forum, or ordering parts you WILL need the info. should the occassion arise, where YOU do your own repairs, be sure to take pictures BEFORE you do so, the location of springs ( into which hole or lever etc.) and how items are configured is a gold-mine at times, because of the difference in machines, and manuals usually do NOT cover every model, take tons of pics from many angles, (you can always delete later what you don't need) Sorry if you feel "coddled" just trying to help a guy with a NEW machine , keep it that way ! ... Boobala

...click to enlarge

 

[Fragger]

Boobala, i dont need to talk down to people or talk crap to be a man , and as far as people not liking you , you may want to rethink that one because you will be held accountable for every evil word you say and think.Telling people they dont know "jack squat " is talking down to people you seem to have missed that one tough guy. I cant belive site admin allows jerks like you stay here but since they do i will not be associated with it. Be tif you were standing face to face to me you would change your tune ..Just remember being a bad azz is not about talking down to people as you seem to pride yourself in doing , as for your God well you better read you bible and see what HE expects from you. could be you need to grow up a little bit and swallow your pride !!

And Fragger, just so ya know, there are MANY of us members that are Veterans, WE never lost the balls we have when we got out of the military, HARSH WORDS ?? Salesmen ?? Now I don't know if you're a Vet or not, IF so, thanks for YOUR service ! But you need to grow or RE-grow a set ! You should get along great with Rivets, maybe he'll share his safe-space with ya ! I put salespeople and lawyers in the same category which is lower than whale-schitt ! I don't mince words, I don't beat around the bush, but I really don't care what people think of me, ... excepting my wife, and our Good Lord !

 

[Kleles]

Kleles, .. I apologize for the bit of "mayhem" on your thread, as you see, some of us have "issues" with one-another on certain things.
Just wanted to add that since it appears you want to take good care of your new machine, without doubting your intelligence, let me recommend, that ALWAYS !! make sure to check the oil-level before starting the machine, OIL is the life-blood of an engine,you most likely will find much discussion on the subject of oil, follow the owners guides, speaking of, be sure to keep them handy, and also get the PARTS-MANUAL for the mower AND your engine ! "rat-hole" all that in a safe keeping place, along with the machines "numbers" ..see example, and in case you need help from this forum, or ordering parts you WILL need the info. should the occassion arise, where YOU do your own repairs, be sure to take pictures BEFORE you do so, the location of springs ( into which hole or lever etc.) and how items are configured is a gold-mine at times, because of the difference in machines, and manuals usually do NOT cover every model, take tons of pics from many angles, (you can always delete later what you don't need) Sorry if you feel "coddled" just trying to help a guy with a NEW machine , keep it that way ! ... Boobala

View attachment 34737 ...click to enlarge

Thanks for your advice, again. I’ve downloaded both parts manuals and they’re safely stored in digital form. My usual maintenance includes gas, oil (checking and changing), cleaning, pulling the spark plug (cleaning, gapping) at the start of the season, and blade sharpening. Hopefully, I won’t have to start dismantling for many years.

 

[Boobala]

You're very welcome, take care and visit when ya get time, Happy Holidays ( in case ya don't get back for awhile) ..:thumbsup:

 

[NorthBama]

HaHa Boo You not being PC :laughing: Oh yes thank you for your service

 

[Kleles]

Spring start-up: oil change challenges.

The snow is gone and parts of my lawn are green. I had not followed the manufacturer’s instructions about changing the oil after the first 5 hours of use last summer so I decided to do it yesterday. Not an easy job, with the drain plug at the base of the filler tube, above the deck. To make it more of a challenge, the deck has an upward bulge near the rim that would have impeded the oil after removing the pug, and the side discharge spring loaded gate is nearby. (My previous machine had the plug under the deck and it was easy to drain the oil.)

I hoisted the mower onto my portable work bench and tilted it to its side. I drained the oil from the filler tube into a container below the bench with some of the oil falling on the bench. I was surprised at how clean the oil looked! (I also sharpened the blade with a mill bastard). I righted the machine, carried it down and poured in new oil.

Then came the real test. I filled the tank with gas that had been stored and stabilized since last fall. How many pulls would it take? I wondered. The mower started on the first pull! Great! I let it warm up, then checked and adjusted the oil level.

Does anyone have a suggestion about doing an oil change that is less laborious?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Go to a boating supply shop and buy an oil syphon pump.
For some strange reason boat shops sell them for about 1/2 what mower shops sell them for
Then put a paver under the front wheel on the opposite side to the dip stick tube so it is at the lowest spot and give it a few pumps.
I have a 6 & 10 liter pump and about 3 strokes will empty most walk behinds.
Every couple of years pull the wheels off and lightly lube the axels .
Do the same with the blade carrier to prevent it rusting into place.
Do not wash the mower with water unless it is a hot day.
Air will shift fresh cut grass a lot better than water.

 

[Kleles]

Go to a boating supply shop and buy an oil syphon pump.
For some strange reason boat shops sell them for about 1/2 what mower shops sell them for
Then put a paver under the front wheel on the opposite side to the dip stick tube so it is at the lowest spot and give it a few pumps.
I have a 6 & 10 liter pump and about 3 strokes will empty most walk behinds.
Every couple of years pull the wheels off and lightly lube the axels .
Do the same with the blade carrier to prevent it rusting into place.
Do not wash the mower with water unless it is a hot day.
Air will shift fresh cut grass a lot better than water.

Thanks for your advice about the oil syphon pump. I’ll have to find a boat supply shop; there must be some around here. After all, Montreal is an island!

After I drained the oil, I watched youtube videos and didn’t see one demonstration with a similar engine that used the drain plug. They all tilted the mower and drained the oil via the filler tube into a shallow pan on the floor.

I also like your suggestion about lubricating the axels and the blade carrier. I can do that when I sharpen the blade (about once a month).
Thanks again.

 

[ILENGINE]

I don't know about some of the other manufacturers but Briggs removed the drain plug on their push mower engines several years ago. Partly due to cost saving to the mower manufacturer since some of the new style decks don't allow access to a drain plug even if the engine had one. I have also come across some front tine tillers with vertical shaft engines with no drain plug. Now imagine trying to turn a 100 pound tiller on its side to do an oil change.

Maybe that is the reason for the no oil change for life engines.

 

[Cusser]

Back to the octane thing: octane number is just the resistance to uncontrolled burn in the cylinder. n-heptane is assigned zero, and isoctane assigned 100. Whether your gasoline is 87 or 91 octane is just irrelevant to clogging or whatever claimed in post #1.

Will ethanol in the gas deteriorate fuel lines??? No, modern fuel lines are formulated to be resistant to gas containing ethanol.

I agree with using StaBil.

The Cuss is a degreed chemist, with 40 years in industry doing chemistry.