I have a Gravely HD 60 that has the FR730V engine and it has been burning some oil for the past couple years. I believe it is a 2011 model and has 680 ours on it. Outside of the oil burning issue, it is in outstanding shape as I scrape the deck and blow it off with each use. I wouldn't mind sticking another engine on the beast but though I might bump up the hp a little if that was the case. Has anyone ever replaced the FR730V with a different engine? *Also, have I been hanging out in the mechanic shop too long and should I just buy a d@mn new one?? The Scag dealer is right down the road.
Not too much bigger than your engine without going to a commercial engine and they are a lot more expensive.
Pounds to peanuts on your rings being worn out & the bores glazed
The FR air filter is not the best and very prone to leaking .
New rings and a Donaldson style air filter and you should be fine till the hydros fail.
Not too much bigger than your engine without going to a commercial engine and they are a lot more expensive.
Pounds to peanuts on your rings being worn out & the bores glazed
The FR air filter is not the best and very prone to leaking .
New rings and a Donaldson style air filter and you should be fine till the hydros fail.
Thanks for the reply. When the rings start to wear on these, would they tend to smoke much? This one does t smoke at all other than a thin and quick puff on startup.
Depends on the crank shaft size. The bigger engines only come with an 1 1/8 crank shaft. If yours is this size you could possibly go to a larger engine if it would fit in the space where it mounts.
Thanks for the reply. When the rings start to wear on these, would they tend to smoke much? This one does t smoke at all other than a thin and quick puff on startup.
Modern oils do not smoke anywhere as much as older oils did
kawakasi engine all tend to leak some oil into the cylinders so usually blow some smoke for a few seconds when started
If you like acquiring tools the a bore-o-scope is fun provided you get one small enough to be manouvered once down the plug hole.
If you have a compressor then a leak down tester wil quickly let you know the condition of the rings ( & Valves )
You said it’s only a puff of smoke at start up. You didn’t say how much oil you need to add and how often you add oil. You didn’t say what grade of oil that you have been using.
Next oil change, put some 20W50 in it.
You said it’s only a puff of smoke at start up. You didn’t say how much oil you need to add and how often you add oil. You didn’t say what grade of oil that you have been using.
Next oil change, put some 20W50 in it.
Modern oils do not smoke anywhere as much as older oils did
kawakasi engine all tend to leak some oil into the cylinders so usually blow some smoke for a few seconds when started
If you like acquiring tools the a bore-o-scope is fun provided you get one small enough to be manouvered once down the plug hole.
If you have a compressor then a leak down tester wil quickly let you know the condition of the rings ( & Valves )
Run a 20W50 in it. And, not a synthetic. Just plain old 20W50. It should make it to 1,000 hours and possibly beyond. Kawasaki knows that their engines use oil, that’s why they updated the oil specifications.
Run a 20W50 in it. And, not a synthetic. Just plain old 20W50. It should make it to 1,000 hours and possibly beyond. Kawasaki knows that their engines use oil, that’s why they updated the oil specifications.
Well and this is important. Are you doing the standard leakdown test or the modified one that I use on OHV engines? The modified test can check the whole cylinder stroke as a standard test only checks the upper cylinder. Cylinders tends to wear both oval and taper in the lower cylinder. I had engine that pass the standard test but fail the modified test.
Well and this is important. Are you doing the standard leakdown test or the modified one that I use on OHV engines? The modified test can check the whole cylinder stroke as a standard test only checks the upper cylinder. Cylinders tends to wear both oval and taper in the lower cylinder. I had engine that pass the standard test but fail the modified test.
Run a 20W50 in it. And, not a synthetic. Just plain old 20W50. It should make it to 1,000 hours and possibly beyond. Kawasaki knows that their engines use oil, that’s why they updated the oil specifications.
This did the trick. I used Kawi 20W50 and also put one of those Donaldson air intakes on to get the intake further away from the exhaust. It didn't burn any oil on the last mow. Thanks!
