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I have a Generac Model= 060242 Power Washer and it had carb issues. I cleaned the carb and it actually helped out a lot it did not need to be chocked to run. However, after changing the oil and then the next morning i noticed that the oil smelled like gas. I think i found the problem with the needle but i am not sure.

My question right now is what carb replacement or repair kit would work with my carb. Not sure where to find replacments.

Note: i am not an engine guru.........i am learning about small engines so please do not assume i know what i am talking about.

i have pics of my carb if that woudl help..........there has to be something on the carb that would identify it right?

Looks like the Generac 0060242 uses a 0K10430120 carb

Here us a possible source but I am sure other sources are out there

I am enclosing a pic of my carb.

Any idea on how to identify the company that makes it?

Do you think this carb would work? A neighbor suggested this one.

0K10430120 is the part number for the carb you need. That is the number that you look for and order. Listed both Jack's small engine and Partstree for possible locations to order from.

Thanks. I see the part number "0K10430120" so thanks!!!!!!!!!!!

But how does one know "what company made the carburetor"? is there a way to find out?

welchs101 said:

Thanks. I see the part number "0K10430120" so thanks!!!!!!!!!!!

But how does one know "what company made the carburetor"? is there a way to find out?

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A.K.A, "SuperCarb"
Looks like SP made it, stamped on the side of the carb,

here is the problem. The manufacture buys a carb they can trust. It works many years for the owner. Then it goes bad and the owner isn't comfortable rebuilding it. So the owner asks, "where can I get this carb?" The answer is given, but the owner sees a price that seems like a lot. Then someone says why not buy a Chinese copy for a lot less. Now we are in a crap shoot, maybe it will fit, maybe it will work, or maybe it will be someone else's return to Amazon when it didn't fit or work on their engine. Buy the right part. The manufacturer will not sell one directly to you for less than you can find it at a place like Jacks. You may find a new old stock one in an original box on fleabay for less but don't get a clone. Do not get caught in that trap. Or pay a local shop to rebuild and test yours.

words like "fits models," "replaces," "replacement carburetor," "for models," or "same as..." typically mean it is a clone and not the original part the factory chose.

And to add to the above , none of those descriptors say it actually works they all say it will fit in the same place and connect to everything without alteration .
The good carb factories test every one as it comes off the line.
Tests good and it goes to the purchaser
Tests bad and it gets sold as "defective"
Small factorys and workshops buy the defective ones, pull them apart & make a repair after which they get sold into the aftermarket parts stream
Whet they can't fix get bought by a lower lever repairer who will fix things like casting with holes or holes that have broken through the casting etc etc etc and then tey get resold into the aftermarket parts stream
What they can not fix gets bough by et others & thus the cycle repeats till there is nothing left but absolute unrepairable junk which gets sold as scrap metal to factorys who pull them apart so the different materials can go into the materials stream as quality scrap .
However a lot of this stuff, seems to end up back in the parts stream again .

A maker of quality parts puts their name or the customers name on the goods and top quality ones will also have a serial or date or batch code
Junk makes put nothing on the product so it can be sold by lots of different people pretending that they made it or it was their design or because it is total junk so they don't want to be identified ( or sued )

The take away is
Unbranded , in branded packaging = lowest quality that is acceptable
Unbranded in unbranded packaging = junk

I hear what your both saying. My interest in the "manufacturer" is that i thought generac might be adding on to the price and if i could find out who makes the carb maybe i could get it from them or find a replacement made by same manufacturer. Sounds like this approach is not a good one ............i get / hear what your saying.

One last question: One last question and if you want me to start a new thread i certainly can and will. The reason i was looking for a replacement carb is i had gas in my oil..............
I opened up the carb and cleaned it.....................i looked closely at the needle and seat. I cleaned it really well. I "think" it is making a good seal..........i say i think because ...after cleaning the carb i drained all the oil out of the motor. filled the gas tank up and was waiting to see if any more gas went into the crank case by checking the oil drain location for gas. I did this for several days coming back to chk to see if any gas would drain out of the oil drain. and for several days i did not see any.........then the other day i noticed a few drops of gas in the oil drain.................so this is why i was thinking of replacing carb..........any gas at all is not good right? also, any idea where to find just the needle for this carb?

you might be able to take it to a local shop and see if they can match the parts to a rebuild kit. The parts fiche does not show a rebuild kit for that carb that I could find online.

sgkent said:

you might be able to take it to a local shop and see if they can match the parts to a rebuild kit. The parts fiche does not show a rebuild kit for that carb that I could find online.

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Have never seen a carb rebuild kit for a generac product. They have a carb rebuild list, but it is only 1/2 page long and almost every carb on the list is obsolete and the rebuild kit is obsolete. Dated from 2011.

Might can match a honda needle.

Reality check
1) every section in a supply chain has to make a profit other wise it collapses and the items not longer become available
2) the cost to profit ratio on replacement parts is massive so replacement parts will always be a lot more expensive than the cost of making them.
Perfect example is a $ 1.50 rectifier for one of my BSA motorcycles made in 1954 , sitting in a Lucas warehouse till 1984 when it closed down had incurred $ 1,332 in warehousing costs over that period of time and then there is a $ 4.50 picking fee, a $ 2.00 invoicing cost + warehouse profit of 15 % added to that, transport costs and retailer profit .
The aftermarket ones that are hand made in Indonesia are $ 45 made on demand so they take 3 to 6 months to be made.
3) most factories only sell in wholesale quantities which could be from a box of 20 to a pallet of 2000 and the lower the profit margin is the larger the minimum purchase quantity .
4) the Greedy Amazon effect is preventing companies carrying your parts because the fast moving parts get sold through Amazon which leaves large warehouses full of very slow moving parts on which there will not be enough total income so the warehouse closes and your only option becomes replacing the entire engine

thanks