FUEL -TANK leaking

Boobala

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I have a 25yr.old Maruyama Brush-Cutter / Trimmer. this machine runs like a new one, the driving shaft in it is almost a 1/4 " thick , alas the fuel tank is leaking, on a seam. I've been looking for a replacement tank on & off for the past year & a 1/2 ....... called distributors, dealers, junkyards, evilbay, google , yahoo, etc. etc. . Thought about trying .... 3M - B5200 but usually NOTHING sticks to these polymer tanks , I'd really appreciate it if someone who might have fixed one tell me how to do it, Thanks for reading my post and for ANY help you can offer, I really don't want to trash this machine ........ Boobala ..:anyone:

Maruyama Brushcutter/Trimmer
Model BC241
Fuel -Tank P/N --992360 (OEM )
 

Rivets

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We use an epoxy product which bonds to just about everything. We've had this product for at least ten years, but because it is so old, the label is missing. Has not hardened yet. Have not found a liquid which affects it once hardened and drys rock hard. Got it from the local body shop, so that is where I would tell you to check. If my memory is correct it was about $75 (ouch) for the double tube, but it really works great. We have used it on metal to metal, metal to plastic, plastic to plastic, fiberglass, even nylon to nylon. It is well worth the money and has bailed us out more times than I wish to remember.
 

Boobala

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We use an epoxy product which bonds to just about everything. We've had this product for at least ten years, but because it is so old, the label is missing. Has not hardened yet. Have not found a liquid which affects it once hardened and drys rock hard. Got it from the local body shop, so that is where I would tell you to check. If my memory is correct it was about $75 (ouch) for the double tube, but it really works great. We have used it on metal to metal, metal to plastic, plastic to plastic, fiberglass, even nylon to nylon. It is well worth the money and has bailed us out more times than I wish to remember.

Thanks Rivets, I'll have to do more searching , ya just know that NASA must have something ..... trying to get it is ANOTHER story !!! Boobala ..:frown:
 

ILENGINE

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I have used a hot glue gun on the clear plastic tanks of mowers and had good luck with that. drain and ventilate the tank, and clean the area around the leaking area, and then apply hot glue and let it cool
 

motoman

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Most plastics can be repaired via cold or hot techniques. The trick is identifying the material,cleaning and priming it properly and then bonding. I have done just enough plastic welding to know it's tricky. Probably the most experienced plastic welders are in motorcycle or auto body shops. I will look at my ref materials to name the most likely material. And...if I remember correctly the new gas tank for the Ryobi weed whacker was about $45 on line. I did not buy it because that cost and a couple other parts said "too expensive to fix" which really irks me.
 

reynoldston

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They make a repair kit to repair plastic tanks in RV's. I used one to repair a water tank on one and it worked. I really don't why it wouldn't work on a gas tank.
 

bertsmobile1

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Look up plastic welders in the yellow pages.
There are a lot of them becuse thre is a lot of plasic on cars & motorcycles now days.
There are a couple of simple tests tat they can do to determine what type of plastic it is so they can use the proper repair technique.
I have one here I use a lot they can even repair a big hole in a fuel tank where a blade went right through and it was about 20% of the replacement price.
 

Boobala

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Thanks to ALL of those who posted on my fuel-tank issue, I now have several more avenues of possibilities to explore, I'm sure I'll find a fix for this tank. I've been using my Stihl FS-90 Trimmer with the blade but it does'nt compare to the power and heft of the Maruyama, which is one hell of a machine . went through tree branches up to 2-1/2 inches thick ... SCARY...... especially when it catches on something and kicks-back ......... YES ..... I'm SUPER-CAREFUL with a brush-cutter ......... I fear it more than my chain-saws . Anyway fellas, again ..... I want to THANK all who are trying to help me with this problem . ....... I'll keep all posted on my progress ....... later , Boobala ........:thumbsup:
 

motoman

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According to book on the subject your tank is probably made of "polyethylene" which is whitish or yellow. It melts @ 248F and can only be repaired via hot melt or fusion welding. I would visit dirt bike or atv shops for repair. Otherwise, the airless welder recommended is a variable heat unit with a metal foot where rod is fed . The tank would be V grooved from the topside thru the material. The base material is heated until just melting and filler rod is added. Then the foot is passed over to further fuse the materials. Since it appears the gun investment is ?$100 plus as a last resort you could try a diy. Look for a mounting flange on the tank which has enough excess material to steal some slivers of material to use as filler rod . Get some kind of thermometer and preheat the V groove area 'til it starts to melt and feed in the slivers. Go over it with your heat source. You can water quench. If the tank material is black it is related ,but has a different melt point. I have not tried this. Be careful of closed container and gas fumes.:smile:
 

Boobala

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According to book on the subject your tank is probably made of "polyethylene" which is whitish or yellow. It melts @ 248F and can only be repaired via hot melt or fusion welding. I would visit dirt bike or atv shops for repair. Otherwise, the airless welder recommended is a variable heat unit with a metal foot where rod is fed . The tank would be V grooved from the topside thru the material. The base material is heated until just melting and filler rod is added. Then the foot is passed over to further fuse the materials. Since it appears the gun investment is ?$100 plus as a last resort you could try a diy. Look for a mounting flange on the tank which has enough excess material to steal some slivers of material to use as filler rod . Get some kind of thermometer and preheat the V groove area 'til it starts to melt and feed in the slivers. Go over it with your heat source. You can water quench. If the tank material is black it is related ,but has a different melt point. I have not tried this. Be careful of closed container and gas fumes.:smile:

Thanks for the info. Motoman, I'll be checkin in with some of the local cycle, atv, and motor-home places , called a few of my ol aircraft buddies, and came up with more advice , so I now have a lot to research, ..... I'll keep everone up to speed on this , ......... Thanks again, Boobala ....:thumbsup:
 
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