Fuel solenoid new vs. original questions - JD LA150 w/ Briggs Intek
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bertsmobile1
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And before we get off track & confusion falls like summer rain.
A fuel solenoid does not cut off the supply of fuel to the carburettor as some brain dead ( did he have one in the first place ) moron posted on Face book a decade ago .
The carburettor solenoid just rams a plunger into the feed side of the main jet to stop fuel ENTERING THE CYLINDER during the shut down period where it would pass unburned into the engine then out the exhaust .
It is the float needle & seat that controls the fuel supply TO THE CARBURETTOR and it is a leaking float needle that will allow fuel to flood out of the carburettor & fill your engine via the float bowl vent , which by regulation from the same usless government body that gave us the carb solenoid in the first place
A fuel solenoid does not cut off the supply of fuel to the carburettor as some brain dead ( did he have one in the first place ) moron posted on Face book a decade ago .
The carburettor solenoid just rams a plunger into the feed side of the main jet to stop fuel ENTERING THE CYLINDER during the shut down period where it would pass unburned into the engine then out the exhaust .
It is the float needle & seat that controls the fuel supply TO THE CARBURETTOR and it is a leaking float needle that will allow fuel to flood out of the carburettor & fill your engine via the float bowl vent , which by regulation from the same usless government body that gave us the carb solenoid in the first place
This is definitely the answer, I've done this several times. Also installing the shut-off near the carb, then when you are done mowing you can shut the valve and let the engine starve, thus assuring no leaks on your garage floor.The problem is 2 fold:
1) The fuel tank is ABOVE the carb. Therefore GRAVITY (which has not been turned off in a LONG time) will always be trying (yes, even while you sleep) to push gasoline into the engine oil... where it can ruin your fine engine. So you DO NEED a fuel shut off. This is because you are not fighting "fuel", you are battling "GRAVITY". And gravity doesn't give up.
2) You really cannot trust the automatic fuel shutoffs because most of them give no external indication of their ON or OFF condition. You may have one, but is it really working ? You won't know until you see oil flooding out the muffler, and by then it's too late.
The only thing you can trust is the manual fuel shut off. You control OFF and you control ON. And the valve gives a visible indication of that status. Adding a manual fuel shut off in the fuel line just before the carb will cost between $6 and $8 at any store or on-line dealer that sells power equipment. They look like this....
Hope this helps.
Tell them again. LOVE IT!!!!The problem is 2 fold:
1) The fuel tank is ABOVE the carb. Therefore GRAVITY (which has not been turned off in a LONG time) will always be trying (yes, even while you sleep) to push gasoline into the engine oil... where it can ruin your fine engine. So you DO NEED a fuel shut off. This is because you are not fighting "fuel", you are battling "GRAVITY". And gravity doesn't give up.
2) You really cannot trust the automatic fuel shutoffs because most of them give no external indication of their ON or OFF condition. You may have one, but is it really working ? You won't know until you see oil flooding out the muffler, and by then it's too late.
The only thing you can trust is the manual fuel shut off. You control OFF and you control ON. And the valve gives a visible indication of that status. Adding a manual fuel shut off in the fuel line just before the carb will cost between $6 and $8 at any store or on-line dealer that sells power equipment. They look like this....
Hope this helps.
Slomo
Rig job? You know just like I do, those solenoids will fail in the future. Leaving most scratching their head on why their mower won't start. Rig job my arse LOL. Why would you or your customers spend money on a time bomb? Rig job.....
slomo
Very possible. They only cost a buck or 2. Way less than that solenoid mess. You can buy a 10 pack of shutoffs on fleabay for cheap.
And as our brother poster mentioned, you don't know if the sucker is working or not. COME ON MAN!!
slomo
I accidently came across this post and I'm glad I did. I have a John ODeer LT166 that is not starting and I couldn't figure out why until I found a trouble shoot chart that mention this solenoid and found out it doesn't "click" when the system is powered. Tried to find a new solenoid or carb rebuild kit with it in it and they are no longer made.
I may try this plug and shutoff valve just to see if I can get the mower running again. I already have these shutoff valves (I put them on all my small engines to run them dry for winter storage).
Thanks for the tip about the "rig job". I was about to send it the parts/recycle graveyard. The mower was running fine until it just started running down and finally died while I was using it and will run if I shoot starter fluid down it's throat.
I may try this plug and shutoff valve just to see if I can get the mower running again. I already have these shutoff valves (I put them on all my small engines to run them dry for winter storage).
Thanks for the tip about the "rig job". I was about to send it the parts/recycle graveyard. The mower was running fine until it just started running down and finally died while I was using it and will run if I shoot starter fluid down it's throat.
It’s interesting to see that some people talk of these solenoids as if they operate on some kind of sorcery. All you have to do is turn the key on and listen/feel for the solenoid to click - that’s how you know if it’s working. In its fundamental operation, it’s no different than the starter solenoid, or fuel injectors, or a basic relay.
And deleting it is hardly going to eliminate no starts - it’s only going to eliminate one possible cause of a no start. Basic diagnostic methods will lead to the solenoid sooner or later.
And deleting it is hardly going to eliminate no starts - it’s only going to eliminate one possible cause of a no start. Basic diagnostic methods will lead to the solenoid sooner or later.
bertsmobile1
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Please go back & re-read the entire post.
You are still confusing the role of the fuel solenoid.
I bought on of each when I got the repair run but quickly found that nearly every one that was stuck, could be cleaned up and made to work again by dripping solvent into the hole the plunger sits in and working it in & out manually
In the past 7 years I have serviced about 3000 engines and not replaced a single solenoid .
I fit taps to every mower that I service primarily to make carb servicing & or filter replacement easier for me.
I do tell people to turn it off & starve the engine which will leave the float bowl almost empty preventing evaporation of fuel gumming up the carb or water adsorbtion corroding the carb.
he other advantage is the last few cycles of the engine will be very lean which will tend to burn off any build up on the spark plug so the mower starts easier next time.