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Fuel Shut Off
#1
shurguywutt
shurguywutt
I am looking to add one to my Timecutter. Which type do you all recommend and should I put it before or after the fuel filter?
#2
B
Bertrrr
B
Bertrrr
Are you looking at a manual valve ? If so I would put it before the filter so you can change filter out without loosing fuel, your carb bowl probably has an automatic fuel shut off for when you kill the engine.
#3
StarTech
StarTech
Those fuel solenoid only block the main fuel nozzle in the carburetor and does NOT shut off the fuel in the carburetor.The float needle valve and seat can still leak fuel all over the place.
#4
7394
7394
Even with electric fuel pump ?The float needle valve and seat can still leak fuel all over the place.
#6
7394
7394
Interesting.. As my gas line must flow up to top of tank (where it exits) to then head to gas filter & then electric fuel pump & finally carb..
#7
B
Bertrrr
B
Bertrrr
Never seen a fuel supply come from the top of the tank , you may be looking at a return line
#8
H
hlw49
H
hlw49
There lots of mowers that the fuel line goes in the top of the tank that draw fuel from the botton vie a fuel pickup hose.
#9
StarTech
Fuel can flow once the filled fuel line is below the fuel level ie it becomes a siphon hose.
StarTech
Then you never work on a ZTR. Many of them have the fuel line coming out top of tanks. I even work on a few JDs that the electric fuel pump was in the fuel tank. I even a couple riders with the fuel line coming out of the top of tank.Never seen a fuel supply come from the top of the tank , you may be looking at a return line
Fuel can flow once the filled fuel line is below the fuel level ie it becomes a siphon hose.
#10
7394
7394
No, it is the supply line, & Shut off valve is there as well.Never seen a fuel supply come from the top of the tank , you may be looking at a return line
#11
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
Siphon effect.Interesting.. As my gas line must flow up to top of tank (where it exits) to then head to gas filter & then electric fuel pump & finally carb..
#12
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
i use the briggs 698183 shut off. fits 1/4" id line, i usually install it before the filter that way you can shut it off when you change the filter.I am looking to add one to my Timecutter. Which type do you all recommend and should I put it before or after the fuel filter?
#13
shurguywutt
shurguywutt
Would the Briggs 698183 work on my mower even though it is not gravity fed?i use the briggs 698183 shut off. fits 1/4" id line, i usually install it before the filter that way you can shut it off when you change the filter.
#14
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
I install 1/4” fuel shut off valves on lots of equipment. It is amazing how old some equipment is, has been to other shops, and fuel shut off never installed.Would the Briggs 698183 work on my mower even though it is not gravity fed?
#15
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
YesWould the Briggs 698183 work on my mower even though it is not gravity fed?
#16
7394
7394
PS: My OE gas shut-off is at very top on tank. (way before filter)Siphon effect.
#17
7394
7394
Yea, I have yet to see that happen on any of mine. Hopefully it never does either.Siphon effect.
#18
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
oh belive me, it's not if........but when. Muahahahahaa.Yea, I have yet to see that happen on any of mine. Hopefully it never does either.
#19
shurguywutt
shurguywutt
Ordered the briggs shut off and will be installing it this weekend. Crazy how expensive these little parts have gotten. I could have ordered the knock off for half the price but decided not to because I don't want to risk any leaks.
#20
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
The knock offs definitely don't last as long.Ordered the briggs shut off and will be installing it this weekend. Crazy how expensive these little parts have gotten. I could have ordered the knock off for half the price but decided not to because I don't want to risk any leaks.
#21
B
Born2Mow
You're letting the "delivery" point confuse you about the "pickup" point.
B
Born2Mow
The fuel MAY exit the tank at the top, but in order to deliver fuel the "pickup" MUST be near the bottom of the tank.Then you never work on a ZTR. Many of them have the fuel line coming out top of tanks. I even work on a few JDs that the electric fuel pump was in the fuel tank. I even a couple riders with the fuel line coming out of the top of tank.
But the "pickup" point for any syphon MUST be submerged in the liquid.Fuel can flow once the filled fuel line is below the fuel level ie it becomes a siphon hose.
You're letting the "delivery" point confuse you about the "pickup" point.
#22
SARG
SARG
I have them on 4 machines.
#23
O
OldDiyer
O
OldDiyer
Just putting this out there but wouldn't a metal shut off valve be a better option than those plastic ones? I am also thinking of adding one to my tractor. They are a bit more expensive but may last longer maybe.
#24
StarTech
StarTech
Depends on how they are constructed. Honda uses metal ones on some generators and carburetors. The rubber internal part does go bad leading to replacement of the fuel valve.
#25
B
Boomer49
B
Boomer49
This question still looks open. The shutoff is designed to empty the carburetor, right. I would put the shutoff closer to it for a couple of reasons. 1st, most machines that have one built in, put it on the block up near the carburetor. That's what you're trying to empty. Why burn a bunch of gas in the fuel line to accomplish that? 2nd, If you need to service the engine you disconnect the line from the carburetor anyway. You aren't dumping any in the line. There are undoubtedly other reasons, but those 2 should be enough.I am looking to add one to my Timecutter. Which type do you all recommend and should I put it before or after the fuel filter?
#26
doug9694
doug9694
I would put it after. Any debire in the tank could keep the valve from closing off completely. The filter should trap it!I am looking to add one to my Timecutter. Which type do you all recommend and should I put it before or after the fuel filter?
#27
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
Ethanol will also deteriorate fuel line, and filter components when it sits, it's best to have as much of the line empty as possible.This question still looks open. The shutoff is designed to empty the carburetor, right. I would put the shutoff closer to it for a couple of reasons. 1st, most machines that have one built in, put it on the block up near the carburetor. That's what you're trying to empty. Why burn a bunch of gas in the fuel line to accomplish that? 2nd, If you need to service the engine you disconnect the line from the carburetor anyway. You aren't dumping any in the line. There are undoubtedly other reasons, but those 2 should be enough.
#28
7394
7394
Agreed Scrub- Mine is right at top of my tank..
#29
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
Why do you want to add a fuel shut off? Is it leaking through the carburetor and flooding out the carburetor or dripping out or getting your tank low or getting fuel into your oil?
If so it needs a repair to fix that problem as the fuel shut off is just a Band-Aid for this but not really a good one.
If these things aren't happening then you don't need a fuel shut off for any reason.
If you're following the old school mentality of running it dry or you're trying to turn the fuel line off every time you shut it down to drain the bowl for some sort of benefit for starting or staying cleaner etc then that is also not good practice.
I know people have said it for years and some manuals even talk about running machines dry and stuff for what they call long-term storage but they never say how many weeks or months or years long-term storage is.
In climates where there is an off-season, running one dry or what people call dry, because it's never really dry, is better than doing absolutely nothing and just walking away from them after the last mow but it's certainly not the best thing you can do.
The best thing you can do is to make sure before you mow with it for the last time that you go by fresh fuel and add 1 oz of fuel stabilizer like sta-bil and your gas can for each gallon of fuel you're going to buy. This is a stronger long-term storage dose and then fill your tank on your mower either all the way full or with a substantial amount of fuel because you want that fresh stabilized fuel circulating and going everywhere and fully saturating and being the largest volume of the fuel in there after it mixes with the old fuel which may have not had stabilizer.
So after you mow for the last time this has done all that.
Then, you should pour the rest of that fresh gas in there and top off your tank because it's far better to store them with a full tank than an empty tank because of condensation and moisture but again the climates have a lot to do with this.
This is far better than trying to run one dry or leaving it mostly empty because when you run one dry you basically only get it half dry..
The ball has about a quarter to a half of its level of fuel and the fuel line ends up drying out completely as does the needle and seat which has rubber somewhere involved.
These rubber pieces will start to dry rot and harden more quickly than if you left them saturated and fresh stabilized fuel.
You also must remember that the small amount of fuel in the bowl will evaporate and leave something behind and with recent gas it's quite a bit of bad something.
It simply safer to let the bowl stay full.
It's never a bad idea to have a fuel shut off for the off season so just in case it does decide to leak or something you won't lose all your fuel and make a mess but it shouldn't be done as a replacement for storing them with fresh stabilized fuel and a full tank.
If so it needs a repair to fix that problem as the fuel shut off is just a Band-Aid for this but not really a good one.
If these things aren't happening then you don't need a fuel shut off for any reason.
If you're following the old school mentality of running it dry or you're trying to turn the fuel line off every time you shut it down to drain the bowl for some sort of benefit for starting or staying cleaner etc then that is also not good practice.
I know people have said it for years and some manuals even talk about running machines dry and stuff for what they call long-term storage but they never say how many weeks or months or years long-term storage is.
In climates where there is an off-season, running one dry or what people call dry, because it's never really dry, is better than doing absolutely nothing and just walking away from them after the last mow but it's certainly not the best thing you can do.
The best thing you can do is to make sure before you mow with it for the last time that you go by fresh fuel and add 1 oz of fuel stabilizer like sta-bil and your gas can for each gallon of fuel you're going to buy. This is a stronger long-term storage dose and then fill your tank on your mower either all the way full or with a substantial amount of fuel because you want that fresh stabilized fuel circulating and going everywhere and fully saturating and being the largest volume of the fuel in there after it mixes with the old fuel which may have not had stabilizer.
So after you mow for the last time this has done all that.
Then, you should pour the rest of that fresh gas in there and top off your tank because it's far better to store them with a full tank than an empty tank because of condensation and moisture but again the climates have a lot to do with this.
This is far better than trying to run one dry or leaving it mostly empty because when you run one dry you basically only get it half dry..
The ball has about a quarter to a half of its level of fuel and the fuel line ends up drying out completely as does the needle and seat which has rubber somewhere involved.
These rubber pieces will start to dry rot and harden more quickly than if you left them saturated and fresh stabilized fuel.
You also must remember that the small amount of fuel in the bowl will evaporate and leave something behind and with recent gas it's quite a bit of bad something.
It simply safer to let the bowl stay full.
It's never a bad idea to have a fuel shut off for the off season so just in case it does decide to leak or something you won't lose all your fuel and make a mess but it shouldn't be done as a replacement for storing them with fresh stabilized fuel and a full tank.
#30
shurguywutt
shurguywutt
?????????????????If you're following the old school mentality of running it dry or you're trying to turn the fuel line off every time you shut it down to drain the bowl for some sort of benefit for starting or staying cleaner etc then that is also not good practice.
I know people have said it for years and some manuals even talk about running machines dry and stuff for what they call long-term storage but they never say how many weeks or months or years long-term storage is.
#31
T
TobyU
Most mowers don't have fuel shut offs.
So I explain some of the reasons people often look into adding a fuel shut off.
Some of these instances are simply trying to Band-Aid a problem of repair that needs to be performed.
Others are so they can follow a certain procedure in their storage process which with today's fuels, is certainly not the best way they can shut down and store their machine.
Many don't believe this because they are going from many year old previous experiences that prove successful for them back then.
The problem is they have been several additional variables introduced into the situation since that time so running a machine dry is no longer the best way to store it for the off season.
T
TobyU
My question and or concern is why you're looking to add a fuel shut off in the first place.?????????????????
Most mowers don't have fuel shut offs.
So I explain some of the reasons people often look into adding a fuel shut off.
Some of these instances are simply trying to Band-Aid a problem of repair that needs to be performed.
Others are so they can follow a certain procedure in their storage process which with today's fuels, is certainly not the best way they can shut down and store their machine.
Many don't believe this because they are going from many year old previous experiences that prove successful for them back then.
The problem is they have been several additional variables introduced into the situation since that time so running a machine dry is no longer the best way to store it for the off season.
#32
shurguywutt
shurguywutt
All my hondas have OEM shutoffs. Never had a problem fouling carbs. Typically only my Briggs equip does not have OEM shutoffs and this is the equip that I have carb problems with. I just wanted to add it because I typically run E0 but since fuel is getting expensive I was going to use e10 during the season and e0 on off season. I would like to be able to clear the carb like in my Hondas. This is why.My question and or concern is why you're looking to add a fuel shut off in the first place.
Most mowers don't have fuel shut offs.
So I explain some of the reasons people often look into adding a fuel shut off.
Some of these instances are simply trying to Band-Aid a problem of repair that needs to be performed.
Others are so they can follow a certain procedure in their storage process which with today's fuels, is certainly not the best way they can shut down and store their machine.
Many don't believe this because they are going from many year old previous experiences that prove successful for them back then.
The problem is they have been several additional variables introduced into the situation since that time so running a machine dry is no longer the best way to store it for the off season.
#33
7394
7394
I only had issue on a long ago Briggs rider, piece of tiny crud got under needle valve & it was gravity fill, so it did fill.
My current Liberty has OEM shutoff.
My current Liberty has OEM shutoff.
#34
B
bertsmobile1
And the fact that about 20% of what comes in to my shop has sufferred from a float valve sticking . running them dry is the best thing you can do .
Fuel vary from place to place, state to state & during the seasons .
However you can not evaporate the volatile elements and leave a gum residue is there is no fuel there in the first place
All of my gear has a fuel shut off and all of them get starved off when I have done with them for a week or more .
B
bertsmobile1
I would argue that point TobyMy question and or concern is why you're looking to add a fuel shut off in the first place.
Most mowers don't have fuel shut offs.
So I explain some of the reasons people often look into adding a fuel shut off.
Some of these instances are simply trying to Band-Aid a problem of repair that needs to be performed.
Others are so they can follow a certain procedure in their storage process which with today's fuels, is certainly not the best way they can shut down and store their machine.
Many don't believe this because they are going from many year old previous experiences that prove successful for them back then.
The problem is they have been several additional variables introduced into the situation since that time so running a machine dry is no longer the best way to store it for the off season.
And the fact that about 20% of what comes in to my shop has sufferred from a float valve sticking . running them dry is the best thing you can do .
Fuel vary from place to place, state to state & during the seasons .
However you can not evaporate the volatile elements and leave a gum residue is there is no fuel there in the first place
All of my gear has a fuel shut off and all of them get starved off when I have done with them for a week or more .
#35
T
TobyU
In my region I have found "running them dry" isn't the best thing as you don't get them really dry - only 1/2 -3/4 dry as the bottom of the bowl still has some in there and THIS is what evaporates and leaves gum and residue.
In my area, fresh full tank of stabilized fuel and run for 5-7 minutes is better than turning off valve and letting them die out.
NOW, using fuel shut off is better than doing nothing and just walking away after last use which is what many people do.
T
TobyU
As you said - fuels vary from region to region.I would argue that point Toby
And the fact that about 20% of what comes in to my shop has sufferred from a float valve sticking . running them dry is the best thing you can do .
Fuel vary from place to place, state to state & during the seasons .
However you can not evaporate the volatile elements and leave a gum residue is there is no fuel there in the first place
All of my gear has a fuel shut off and all of them get starved off when I have done with them for a week or more .
In my region I have found "running them dry" isn't the best thing as you don't get them really dry - only 1/2 -3/4 dry as the bottom of the bowl still has some in there and THIS is what evaporates and leaves gum and residue.
In my area, fresh full tank of stabilized fuel and run for 5-7 minutes is better than turning off valve and letting them die out.
NOW, using fuel shut off is better than doing nothing and just walking away after last use which is what many people do.
#36
T
TobyU
What do you mean by "fouling" carbs ?
The most common problem is a no start or not running well condition after off season storage.
While turning off valve and running untill it stalls is better than doing nothing before storage, it still leaves some old fuel in the bowl and tank and that will still evaporate and can cause issues.
It is better than doing nothing but I prefer to fill machine with fresh stabilized fuel before it's last use then to it off with that same fresh fuel when done.
If it has a fuel valve, I have no problem turning it off to prevent a mess from possible leaks but I DO NOT run it after I turn off the valve.
I want the bowl as full as possible with fresh stabilized fuel bought that day!
Also NEVER take old gas (even week old) and add stabilizer to it and call it stabilized.
Take empty gas can you station, add 1oz sta-bil to can for every gallon of gas and then as gas to can.
This is fresh, stabilized fuel.
T
TobyU
Hondas are the only common ones to have shutoffs.All my hondas have OEM shutoffs. Never had a problem fouling carbs. Typically only my Briggs equip does not have OEM shutoffs and this is the equip that I have carb problems with. I just wanted to add it because I typically run E0 but since fuel is getting expensive I was going to use e10 during the season and e0 on off season. I would like to be able to clear the carb like in my Hondas. This is why.
What do you mean by "fouling" carbs ?
The most common problem is a no start or not running well condition after off season storage.
While turning off valve and running untill it stalls is better than doing nothing before storage, it still leaves some old fuel in the bowl and tank and that will still evaporate and can cause issues.
It is better than doing nothing but I prefer to fill machine with fresh stabilized fuel before it's last use then to it off with that same fresh fuel when done.
If it has a fuel valve, I have no problem turning it off to prevent a mess from possible leaks but I DO NOT run it after I turn off the valve.
I want the bowl as full as possible with fresh stabilized fuel bought that day!
Also NEVER take old gas (even week old) and add stabilizer to it and call it stabilized.
Take empty gas can you station, add 1oz sta-bil to can for every gallon of gas and then as gas to can.
This is fresh, stabilized fuel.
#37
shurguywutt
shurguywutt
I think "fuel stabilizer" is snake oil. I used to use it but it didn't make a difference so I stopped wasting money on it. I really think if you used fresh gas vs fresh gas with Stabil in it, they would last the same amount of time. Stabil has an expiration date.
Anyways, the shut off has been installed for about a week and it is working great to achieve my purpose of running the carb dry.
Anyways, the shut off has been installed for about a week and it is working great to achieve my purpose of running the carb dry.
#38
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
The only stabilizer I've ever seen work as advertised is StarTron.
#39
T
TobyU
But I can tell you in my climate.. fuel stabilizer certainly is not snake oil.
I use plain old sta-bil.
I don't buy their special marine or ethanol versions or whatever and I don't use the Walmart super tech stuff that has a slightly different color and I've never used startron or any other brand that I can remember.
I'm sure many of them are either the same or work the same but I will caution everyone that you need to use it for the long-term storage dose like it used to say on the back of the bottle.
It no longer says that now and they will just tell you to use that one ounce for every two and a half gallons but they used to say for long-term storage up to 2 years use it a ratio of 1 oz for every gallon of fuel.
This is how I use it and I make sure I always put the stabilizer into the gas can first with a nice tall 1 oz for every gallon of fuel and then add my fuel to it..
I have verifiable proof over and over that this works better than just fresh gas.
I have had generators with 10 horsepower engines and smaller sit for over 3 1/2 years and start right up in
two or three pulls.
I have at other engines or even the same engines previously set for under 2 years and not start because they did not have stabilized fuel in them.
I will also say there is a problem with trying to run your engine's dry or turning off a fuel shut off.
While, it is better than doing nothing, if you do that your way and I store my engines with fresh full stabilized fuel in them, you will have cracked and leaky fuel lines and needles and seat valves that do not shut off and flood at your carburetor that will have to be replaced or replace the carburetor before I will.
Gas is very bad and caustic today more so than it used to be.
When you dip rubber parts into it and then let it dry out repeatedly it starts to crack faster than if you just left it submerged in the fuel to begin with.
Decades ago we hardly had any problems with the needle valve and seats not shutting off properly but in the past 10 or 15 years we have a large amount of them for the rubber either dries out or the tip gets hardened or a groove in it or the brass seat just simply gets a bunch of microscopic pits in it that will no longer seal properly because of the fuel and more than that, the oxidation after the fuel goes away and the residue that is left and kind of corrosion like eating on the metal.
But like I tell customers who bring me a lawn mower that's 4 to 6 years old that's never been serviced and it starts and runs just fine.... I asked him if they use any type of fuel stabilizer anything like that and when they say "Nope. I just parked it when I'm done using it for the year"
I tell them to keep doing what you're doing because it's obviously working for you.
Unfortunately, about 85% of my customers especially at the beginning of the season have mowers that won't start or won't run properly who did that exact same thing, just walked away from them when they were done at the end of the year.
If these people will follow my advice and put fresh stabilized fuel in for the last mow of the year, about 95% of them will not have that problem the next.
Now you are correct that if they would all just go buy fresh gas and put it in about 45 to 50% would not have the problem either but it is not nearly as high of a percentage as adding the stabilizer.
None of this is typically necessary for riding mowers or engines over 14 or 15 horsepower because they have such larger jets and large amounts of fuel..
I've seen these things set for right about 3 years without running and fire up and be just fine by just adding some fresh gas to the top of the tank because the jets are huge compared to a push mower.
T
TobyU
Well, as I often say to everyone about lots of different things in life, it definitely depends on your area, climate, region etc and your mileage may vary.I think "fuel stabilizer" is snake oil. I used to use it but it didn't make a difference so I stopped wasting money on it. I really think if you used fresh gas vs fresh gas with Stabil in it, they would last the same amount of time. Stabil has an expiration date.
Anyways, the shut off has been installed for about a week and it is working great to achieve my purpose of running the carb dry.
But I can tell you in my climate.. fuel stabilizer certainly is not snake oil.
I use plain old sta-bil.
I don't buy their special marine or ethanol versions or whatever and I don't use the Walmart super tech stuff that has a slightly different color and I've never used startron or any other brand that I can remember.
I'm sure many of them are either the same or work the same but I will caution everyone that you need to use it for the long-term storage dose like it used to say on the back of the bottle.
It no longer says that now and they will just tell you to use that one ounce for every two and a half gallons but they used to say for long-term storage up to 2 years use it a ratio of 1 oz for every gallon of fuel.
This is how I use it and I make sure I always put the stabilizer into the gas can first with a nice tall 1 oz for every gallon of fuel and then add my fuel to it..
I have verifiable proof over and over that this works better than just fresh gas.
I have had generators with 10 horsepower engines and smaller sit for over 3 1/2 years and start right up in
two or three pulls.
I have at other engines or even the same engines previously set for under 2 years and not start because they did not have stabilized fuel in them.
I will also say there is a problem with trying to run your engine's dry or turning off a fuel shut off.
While, it is better than doing nothing, if you do that your way and I store my engines with fresh full stabilized fuel in them, you will have cracked and leaky fuel lines and needles and seat valves that do not shut off and flood at your carburetor that will have to be replaced or replace the carburetor before I will.
Gas is very bad and caustic today more so than it used to be.
When you dip rubber parts into it and then let it dry out repeatedly it starts to crack faster than if you just left it submerged in the fuel to begin with.
Decades ago we hardly had any problems with the needle valve and seats not shutting off properly but in the past 10 or 15 years we have a large amount of them for the rubber either dries out or the tip gets hardened or a groove in it or the brass seat just simply gets a bunch of microscopic pits in it that will no longer seal properly because of the fuel and more than that, the oxidation after the fuel goes away and the residue that is left and kind of corrosion like eating on the metal.
But like I tell customers who bring me a lawn mower that's 4 to 6 years old that's never been serviced and it starts and runs just fine.... I asked him if they use any type of fuel stabilizer anything like that and when they say "Nope. I just parked it when I'm done using it for the year"
I tell them to keep doing what you're doing because it's obviously working for you.
Unfortunately, about 85% of my customers especially at the beginning of the season have mowers that won't start or won't run properly who did that exact same thing, just walked away from them when they were done at the end of the year.
If these people will follow my advice and put fresh stabilized fuel in for the last mow of the year, about 95% of them will not have that problem the next.
Now you are correct that if they would all just go buy fresh gas and put it in about 45 to 50% would not have the problem either but it is not nearly as high of a percentage as adding the stabilizer.
None of this is typically necessary for riding mowers or engines over 14 or 15 horsepower because they have such larger jets and large amounts of fuel..
I've seen these things set for right about 3 years without running and fire up and be just fine by just adding some fresh gas to the top of the tank because the jets are huge compared to a push mower.
#40
7394
7394
Seafoam, since 1942.........
#41
T
TobyU
I find a pure stabilizer that only stabilizes works better.
T
TobyU
It's better than nothing but for stabilizer it's a "jack of all trades - master of none"Seafoam, since 1942.........
I find a pure stabilizer that only stabilizes works better.
#42
7394
7394
OK, But FYI, Sta-Bil has limited shelf life, it will go bad & get gummy..
#43
T
TobyU
I have seen it get dark but still be thin like normal and I've used it even when old and darker with no issues.
Peanut butter has a shelf life too. I'm not going to start making apple butter and jelly sandwiches because peanut butter has a shelf life.
I'm just going to eat it before it gets really old....
T
TobyU
I'm sure it does but that would be years!OK, But FYI, Sta-Bil has limited shelf life, it will go bad & get gummy..
I have seen it get dark but still be thin like normal and I've used it even when old and darker with no issues.
Peanut butter has a shelf life too. I'm not going to start making apple butter and jelly sandwiches because peanut butter has a shelf life.
I'm just going to eat it before it gets really old....
#44
B
bertsmobile1
Every locally assembled push & ride on has a fuel shut off valve
Most UK & EU mowers have fuel shut off valves
It seems that only USA models do not have them
I see this regularly where the export model will have a shut off while the grey US imports of the same mower do not have a shut off .
B
bertsmobile1
Just about every push mower sold in Australia has a shut off valve .Hondas are the only common ones to have shutoffs.
What do you mean by "fouling" carbs ?
The most common problem is a no start or not running well condition after off season storage.
While turning off valve and running untill it stalls is better than doing nothing before storage, it still leaves some old fuel in the bowl and tank and that will still evaporate and can cause issues.
It is better than doing nothing but I prefer to fill machine with fresh stabilized fuel before it's last use then to it off with that same fresh fuel when done.
If it has a fuel valve, I have no problem turning it off to prevent a mess from possible leaks but I DO NOT run it after I turn off the valve.
I want the bowl as full as possible with fresh stabilized fuel bought that day!
Also NEVER take old gas (even week old) and add stabilizer to it and call it stabilized.
Take empty gas can you station, add 1oz sta-bil to can for every gallon of gas and then as gas to can.
This is fresh, stabilized fuel.
Every locally assembled push & ride on has a fuel shut off valve
Most UK & EU mowers have fuel shut off valves
It seems that only USA models do not have them
I see this regularly where the export model will have a shut off while the grey US imports of the same mower do not have a shut off .
#45
shurguywutt
shurguywutt
Not surprised. Manufacturers in the US like to keep our repairs numerous and service costs high in order to push the customer to battery or to just buy new junkier equipment (probably also without a fuel shut off lol). Sad.Just about every push mower sold in Australia has a shut off valve .
Every locally assembled push & ride on has a fuel shut off valve
Most UK & EU mowers have fuel shut off valves
It seems that only USA models do not have them
I see this regularly where the export model will have a shut off while the grey US imports of the same mower do not have a shut off .
#46
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
I don't doubt that but you do realize most of the people in this forum are probably not in Australia right??Just about every push mower sold in Australia has a shut off valve .
Every locally assembled push & ride on has a fuel shut off valve
Most UK & EU mowers have fuel shut off valves
It seems that only USA models do not have them
I see this regularly where the export model will have a shut off while the grey US imports of the same mower do not have a shut off .
#47
T
TobyU
Some may see it as a nice addition but few even use it even when it's there. Pretty much every push mower in the US market except ones with Honda engines do not have a fuel shut off and traditionally those machines have had far fewer starting and running issues then the Honda's with the shut off. LOL
T
TobyU
It makes little difference whether a machine has a fuel shut off or not.Not surprised. Manufacturers in the US like to keep our repairs numerous and service costs high in order to push the customer to battery or to just buy new junkier equipment (probably also without a fuel shut off lol). Sad.
Some may see it as a nice addition but few even use it even when it's there. Pretty much every push mower in the US market except ones with Honda engines do not have a fuel shut off and traditionally those machines have had far fewer starting and running issues then the Honda's with the shut off. LOL
#48
shurguywutt
shurguywutt
We all know by now that you hate fuel shut offs. Maybe if you took them off of all of your Hondas they would have less problems?It makes little difference whether a machine has a fuel shut off or not.
Some may see it as a nice addition but few even use it even when it's there. Pretty much every push mower in the US market except ones with Honda engines do not have a fuel shut off and traditionally those machines have had far fewer starting and running issues then the Honda's with the shut off. LOL
#49
B
bertsmobile1
And I think the Suzuki engines that Toro used on their walk behinds also had a fuel shut off valve as it is shown in the USA repair & owners manuals .
B
bertsmobile1
Yes Toby I realize that the bulk of the forum members are from the USA but a lot of them do not seem to understand that there are countries other than the USAI don't doubt that but you do realize most of the people in this forum are probably not in Australia right??
And I think the Suzuki engines that Toro used on their walk behinds also had a fuel shut off valve as it is shown in the USA repair & owners manuals .
#50
T
TobyU
I simply stated a fact that for the most part only Hondas have them in the US.
I also stated my experience over thousands and thousands of engines that they seem to make no difference on the smaller push mowers as to whether people have problems with them running after the off-season or not.
While I think it's a nice addition to have, I also think it's a waste of time and money because it's simply not needed.
T
TobyU
Where did I say I hate fuel shut offs?We all know by now that you hate fuel shut offs. Maybe if you took them off of all of your Hondas they would have less problems?
I simply stated a fact that for the most part only Hondas have them in the US.
I also stated my experience over thousands and thousands of engines that they seem to make no difference on the smaller push mowers as to whether people have problems with them running after the off-season or not.
While I think it's a nice addition to have, I also think it's a waste of time and money because it's simply not needed.
#51
T
TobyU
However, when we're making generalized statements in a forum that is mainly in the US it would make sense that most of the statements are regarding equipment that's in the US so it just seems odd when you pull a statistical fact out that only applies in Australia.
I'm sure most people don't even know if they cut grass in Australia.
The Toro Suzuki mainly came on the GTS mowers at least the first ones and it came in the most common four-stroke version but also in the awesome and cult following like two stroke version.
It may have been an option offered and was in the manual but that was mostly on the commercial ones that had the larger higher mounted gas tank.
I have two or three of those Suzuki engine ones in my collection.
Most of these did not have a fuel shut off at all.
In fact, it was very common on the two cycle ones when they would start flooding out the carburetor from the needle and seat valve not ceiling for someone to add an aftermarket shut off valve right there in the visible fuel.
This was because of two things, one because some people really didn't know how to fix it and two because the parts to fix it cost a small fortune because they were very proud of the Suzuki parts. Lol
T
TobyU
Very true... Most people in the US do seem to forget there is the rest of the world out there.Yes Toby I realize that the bulk of the forum members are from the USA but a lot of them do not seem to understand that there are countries other than the USA
And I think the Suzuki engines that Toro used on their walk behinds also had a fuel shut off valve as it is shown in the USA repair & owners manuals .
However, when we're making generalized statements in a forum that is mainly in the US it would make sense that most of the statements are regarding equipment that's in the US so it just seems odd when you pull a statistical fact out that only applies in Australia.
I'm sure most people don't even know if they cut grass in Australia.
The Toro Suzuki mainly came on the GTS mowers at least the first ones and it came in the most common four-stroke version but also in the awesome and cult following like two stroke version.
It may have been an option offered and was in the manual but that was mostly on the commercial ones that had the larger higher mounted gas tank.
I have two or three of those Suzuki engine ones in my collection.
Most of these did not have a fuel shut off at all.
In fact, it was very common on the two cycle ones when they would start flooding out the carburetor from the needle and seat valve not ceiling for someone to add an aftermarket shut off valve right there in the visible fuel.
This was because of two things, one because some people really didn't know how to fix it and two because the parts to fix it cost a small fortune because they were very proud of the Suzuki parts. Lol