Fuel octane and type of 2 - cycle oil

[Boobala]

Thank you all for the advice! I'll give the synthetic oil a try! And I can get 87 octane but it has that ethanol crap in it I was wondering if anyone has used Sta-bil before? My uncle uses the red stuff for his boat and I was wondering if the blue stuff would be worth giving a try? Again, I appreciate everyone's advice :smile:

Go back and re-read the literature, Opti-2 has a fuel-conditioner for ethanol built-in , also you can locate a dealer on the site !

 

[Teds]

Gasohol isn't the best for lawn equipment. It doesn't store as well and is hygroscopic. Small engine mechanics are very emphatic on this point, although old stale fuel does bring a lot of extra business their way. You can use a stabilizer to extend shelf life but it won't keep water or moisture away or phase separation.

In the amounts used for the typical suburban homeowner a 5 gallon can of straight gasoline is the way to go. If we don't get a lot of snow 5 gallons lasts me almost a year for both lawn and snow removal duty. You can find where straight gasoline is sold here: http://www.pure-gas.org

One thing people overlook with 2 strokes is the actual fuel/air mix. Keep in mind more oil than recommended LEANS out the air fuel ratio. It's important that the oil isn't overdosed or excessive carbon can buildup but an overich fuel condition too will foul plugs. Use a good quality 2 stroke oil with fresh fuel at their recommended mix ratio, and tweak the "altitude" screw for a slight four stroke sound at idle, it should not run smooth at idle just slightly rich, but settle into the smooth LawnBoy "power hum" when under load in thick grass. This point will change slightly if the temperatures swings widely. 60° will need to be richer than 95°.

Experiment a bit and you'll soon see just a VERY slight turn of the screw makes a big difference in the AFR. Check the plugs for a somewhat tan appearance, they won't burn as clean as a 4 stroke though plugs should not be black or fouled with oil.

 

[Kerry]

I run all of my lawn and garden equipment from a five gallon can with Seafoam added. I pour into a one gallon can to mix my 2 stroke fuel for ease of measurement. Very careful to ensure 32:1 ratio is followed. Always full synthetic oil. Lawnboy Scamp, Toro S-200 snowblower, Ryobi weedwacker, two chainsaws have been on this fuel "diet" for 15+ years, never a fuel related issue with any of them. Ive put them away wet and they fire right up after four or five months. Same with the rider and leaf blower. Everyone does different, just saying what works for me.

 

[unclelee]

My 1953 Lawnboy still runs and it started it's life on a manufacturer recommend 16:1 mix of gas and 30w oil.
The lesson here is to abide by the recommended mix ratios. I'm sure advancements have been made in oil quality as time goes by, so if you adhere to recommend mix ratios it will only serve to prolong the life of your classic engine.
Leaning your ratios to 50:1 is experimenting on your classic engine. If I want to experiment on an engine, I would do it on something newer with better parts availability.
I use Sta-Bil in my ethenol gas.
Lee

 

[bertsmobile1]

I run all of my lawn and garden equipment from a five gallon can with Seafoam added. I pour into a one gallon can to mix my 2 stroke fuel for ease of measurement. Very careful to ensure 32:1 ratio is followed. Always full synthetic oil. Lawnboy Scamp, Toro S-200 snowblower, Ryobi weedwacker, two chainsaws have been on this fuel "diet" for 15+ years, never a fuel related issue with any of them. Ive put them away wet and they fire right up after four or five months. Same with the rider and leaf blower. Everyone does different, just saying what works for me.

Then you are one of the lucky ones.
There is no rhyme nor apparent reason but so many things come in like where you store your tools.
In a garage attached to or under a house will retard fuel dedregation where as in a tin shed detached from the house in full sun will speed things up, then there is the span of temperatures, relative night time humidity etc etc etc.
The tools hanging on my peg boards go rusty in summer, the landlord who lives 500 yards away does not have this problem at any time of the year.

 

[TonyPrin]

Thank you all for the advice! I'll give the synthetic oil a try! And I can get 87 octane but it has that ethanol crap in it I was wondering if anyone has used Sta-bil before? My uncle uses the red stuff for his boat and I was wondering if the blue stuff would be worth giving a try? Again, I appreciate everyone's advice :smile:

While the manual may suggest low octane fuel. I believe your equipment (and the manual) were produced before ethanol became an issue. I suggest a higher octane fuel which is what manufacturers always recommend post-ethanol. Make certain the 2-stroke oil you use is not marine. Sta-bil is a good product but isn't necessary provided you use up the gas in less than 60 days.

 

[Kerry]

Then you are one of the lucky ones.
There is no rhyme nor apparent reason but so many things come in like where you store your tools.
In a garage attached to or under a house will retard fuel dedregation where as in a tin shed detached from the house in full sun will speed things up, then there is the span of temperatures, relative night time humidity etc etc etc.
The tools hanging on my peg boards go rusty in summer, the landlord who lives 500 yards away does not have this problem at any time of the year.

Detatched two stall garage and 12 by 12 shed, both wood construction. Summer temps hit low 90s, winters can hit single digits. Humidity lately has been terrible, but a cooldown is coming in a couple days. I don't believe in luck, but I believe in Seafoam. I still think its why I have no issues.

 

[cpurvis]

Pale oil, naptha, and ethanol. Isn't that what's on Seafoam's SDS?

aka, mineral oil, lighter fluid and alcohol.

 

[bertsmobile1]

While the manual may suggest low octane fuel. I believe your equipment (and the manual) were produced before ethanol became an issue. I suggest a higher octane fuel which is what manufacturers always recommend post-ethanol. Make certain the 2-stroke oil you use is not marine. Sta-bil is a good product but isn't necessary provided you use up the gas in less than 60 days.

Octane ratings are all about higher compressions.
Low compression engines do not need , nor can the efficiently burn high octane fuels.

 

[Kerry]

Pale oil, naptha, and ethanol. Isn't that what's on Seafoam's SDS?

aka, mineral oil, lighter fluid and alcohol.

Developed in the 1930's, patented in the 40's, still sold today, and it still works. I'm sure there are more ingredients than those inside, I'm no chemist. I just know its worked for me for YEARS, and there are still ostriches out there who naysay it instead of trying it. Just put it out there for info. Use it or don't, but don't put it down if you haven't used it.