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OEM Kawasaki 49065-7007 recent changed to 49065-0721
Wix replacements
57035 2.3" tall 32 micron (same as OEM)
51056 2.7" tall 21 micron

Is anyone using 57148? 3.4"tall 5 micron. I see no problem fiting this one on my machine

Cheers, Ray

All that is really important is the back flow valve & bypass valve
The finer micron size will just block up faster and at worst reduce the oil flow slightly or trip the bypass valve earlier .
Domestic filter media is +/- 10 % to 20 % depending who you buy it from
It is not like a screen size on a sieve of woven wire screens where 100µ is 100µ
So 32 µ is really 28<>36 µ if they used good media and 25 <> 38 µ if they used the cheap stuff .
I find it quite amusing just how much some people obsess about mower oil filters
Change your oil after the last mow of each season and most mowers would never need a filter change for their entire life
I do my commercial customers mowers mid season & at the end of the season with new filters every second year.
The Donoldson air filters get new outers each season and the OEM filters get changed every service
The filter that will make a massive difference is the air filter but no one seems to bother with them .
As for your specific question the only real problem will be from the available clearance to get the 1/2" longer filter onto the engine.
I do not have any Bob cats so don't know how tight the spaces are .

I'll stick to the OE Kawasaki Oil Filters, I have the 49065-0721 on mine now after the 8 hour early oil change.

Hi Bert, for the record, the filter is actually 1.1" taller than the OEM, on my machine there is plenty room. I for one have always choose a longer filter if possible. As for the air filter, I blow it off with a leaf blower after every use and change at least twice a season. I agree with you it is the primary source of contaminates in the oil. I believe in PM and probally use way to much grease.. Cheers, Ray

Yep PM is key..

RayMcD said:

Hi Bert, for the record, the filter is actually 1.1" taller than the OEM, on my machine there is plenty room. I for one have always choose a longer filter if possible. As for the air filter, I blow it off with a leaf blower after every use and change at least twice a season. I agree with you it is the primary source of contaminates in the oil. I believe in PM and probally use way to much grease.. Cheers, Ray

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If I pay for the beers could I get you to have a long chat with the bulk of my customers

RayMcD said:

(snip) As for the air filter, I blow it off with a leaf blower after every use and change at least twice a season. I agree with you it is the primary source of contaminates in the oil. I believe in PM and probally use way to much grease.. Cheers, Ray

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Ray- I would excersize caution blowing air at the air filters' outsides. You can be blowing debris deeper into the filter pleats..

I always blow from the inside out.

Never blow an air filter full stop
You will blast fine particles of dirt, rust & water through the paper rendering it useless

Amazing how many are ignorant to the damage being done by blowing out filters. Then, they cry and whine when their warranty is denied. Do not blow out filters under any circumstances.

Been around a long time....never knew this, Thanks for sharing!

txmowman said:

Amazing how many are ignorant to the damage being done by blowing out filters. Then, they cry and whine when their warranty is denied. Do not blow out filters under any circumstances.

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Curious. Does that include chainsaw air filters?

Applies to paper & fabric filters but not to plain foam because the latter already has big holes all the way through it which is why they get oiled to make the sides of the holes sticky.
When they clean paper filters commercially they use high volume low pressure pulses of compressed air to prevent puncturing the paper
Remember the warnings "do not blow directly onto bare skin" well this is why .

txmowman said:

Amazing how many are ignorant to the damage being done by blowing out filters. Then, they cry and whine when their warranty is denied. Do not blow out filters under any circumstances.

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Most engine manufactures recommend taping them lightly to clean them out. If I tap them and a lot of dirt falls out it gets replaced.

Hammermechanicman said:

Curious. Does that include chainsaw air filters?

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Yes

Hammermechanicman said:

View attachment 58943

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Since that is Stihls' recommendation so be it. Compressed air at high pressure can tare the filter element, or blow the fleece off the filter. If that is the way you want to clean your filter knock yourself out. Not me on my equipment.

Kohler oil filters are made by Champion Labs, Inc. Champion Labs make two primary name brands, Champ and Luberfiner.

There is compressed air at 200 PSI from an unfiltered undried tank under your bench & there is compressed air at 40psi that has been microscopically cleaned prior to being sealed into a can for use in cleaning cameras , and everything between the two extremes .
When you send a filter out to be cleaned, they hit it with pulses of compressed air , high volume & low pressure.
Further more that air has been through a 3 stage filtering & dewatering process so is nothing but air .
Nothing like what you have in your workshop where most have nothing more than a coarse sponge filter on the intake to prevent sticks & stones and a tiny water filter on the outlet that barely works .
Go into a high end spray shop and look at the set up they have . usually double or triple dewatering then some still have a dewatering filter at the gun, particularly if they are spraying enamel or resin based paints .

FWIW .
Champion also make Stens filters & some for Prime Line

I have 5.8 hours on my new mower with the Kohler ZT740 engine. I did my first oil change and cut open the Kohler oil filter. I didn’t find any noticeable metal inside the filter. The construction of the filter was very good.
You really can’t go wrong with an OEM oil filter. But, there are other brands that are equally as good or better and can be had for a little less money.

Did you examine it with a 1000 x optical microscope or a 100,000 times electron microscope
If not the phrase urinating into the wind is applicable

I examine mine with xray glasses - super convenient because I don't have to even cut them open.

shurguywutt said:

I examine mine with xray glasses - super convenient because I don't have to even cut them open.

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I just blow my oil filter out with compressed air and reinstall them...???

My opinion is, no one makes a filter better than the OEM. And that it's a hoot to blow out oil filters with air to clean them.

Scrubcadet10 said:

I just blow my oil filter out with compressed air and reinstall them...???

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Nice, you must save a lot of cash doing that. I may try it with my leaf blower.

Interesting. Millions of engines have been made that doesn't use an oil pump and filter. There are also a whole bunch that have oil pumps and no oil filter like some Briggs, many aircraft engines, Volkswagen beetle engines to name a few. Haven't really heard of many of them failing due to issues related to poorly filtered oil. Everyone should use the oil and air filters that make them happy. I have used cheap filters and expensive filters and really haven't seen a difference. Continential engines used in Cessna's have a very coarse screen to filter the oil. A&P mechanic told me "no filter is more reliable than any filter." Use whatever makes you happy and mows the grass.

Been blowing filters out since I was a small kid in the 60's having mowers/minibikes/motorcycles since 8yrs old.
Not having a lot of money in those days we were taught to maintain our own engines.
My oldest engine now is my 1976 Wheel Horse with a 10hp Kolher K series. Its never needed its 1st rebuild yet and still going strong.
I was taught to turn my compressor's regulator down under 25lbs & blow the filter clean from inside out.
Some are HEPA today so they're washable but just be certain its HEPA before washing any out.
About 2 yrs ago my first inner lining I ever tore while blowing one out blew into tiny pieces, that 1yr old no name brand China filter went right in the trash where all those belong.
So I suggest buying OEM or you'll be tearing a carb down now days.
Fwiw- About the only generic parts I use is Stens but they're parts are hit & miss these days.

Here’s one of the spammers!

Kawasaki 49065-7007

Wix 57035 - 2.3" long - This is the stock replacement size.
Wix 51056 - 2.7" long
Wix 51348 - 3.4" Long
Wix 51516 - 4.8" Long - Also Motorcraft FL400A

I will be going with the Wix 51516 filter for maximum oil volume. Also the Wix filters filter to 21 microns as opposed to the 25 in the Kawasaki OEM filter.

lil SIG said:

Kawasaki 49065-7007

Wix 57035 - 2.3" long - This is the stock replacement size.
Wix 51056 - 2.7" long
Wix 51348 - 3.4" Long
Wix 51516 - 4.8" Long - Also Motorcraft FL400A

I will be going with the Wix 51516 filter for maximum oil volume. Also the Wix filters filter to 21 microns as opposed to the 25 in the Kawasaki OEM filter.

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I'm curious, what difference would the length of the filter make? How much time do you want the oil in the filter opposed to lubricating and cooling the engine? We're talking .000156" difference in micron rating. I highly doubt it will make any difference at all. Micron rating is not the only feature that differentiates the quality of the filter.

Absolutely none on a lawn mower other than to add a cuple of ounces to the oil capacity
In theory the greater the surface area of the filter medium the longer it will take to clog up the filter
In reality it would take near 20 years of use to clog the smallest of the oil filters fitted as standard to mower engines
But it makes the peanut gallery feel superiour and does no damage so it does not hurt .
Mower oil should be changed every season and in most cases if you do this then you do not need an oil filter on a vertical shaft engine.

As for micron ratings they are +/- 20 % on commercial media and depending upon which standard is being used then you can get up to a 50% variation
Filter paper is not like a screen where the mesh size is fairly well absolute

RayMcD said:

OEM Kawasaki 49065-7007 recent changed to 49065-0721
Wix replacements
57035 2.3" tall 32 micron (same as OEM)
51056 2.7" tall 21 micron

Is anyone using 57148? 3.4"tall 5 micron. I see no problem fiting this one on my machine

Cheers, Ray

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I have the same engine on my Scag Liberty Z and use either Mobil-1 102A or Bosch Distance Plus 3330 filters. Both have 99.8%+ first pass efficiency. Oil and filter are changed yearly.

I recently changed oil in my wife's car. Filter is about the same size as the Briggs small filter and is supposed to go 7,500 miles per GM.

I've only done 2 oil changes on my New Z, so far. & I use the Kaw 49065-0724 oil filters.
Still under warranty, so I will continue on this path for now.

Hammermechanicman said:

I recently changed oil in my wife's car. Filter is about the same size as the Briggs small filter and is supposed to go 7,500 miles per GM.

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Although I'm not sure of anything scientific, some equate 1 engine hour to approximately 50 miles. So with this theory, 7500 divided by 50 is 150. Recommended oil and filter change is at 100 hours. So I would call this pretty close.