FJ180 scored crankshaft and top bearing

Cfs

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Here are some photos of the upper bearing surface on the crankshaft and the damaged cast aluminum bearing surface in the lid. As I think I previously mentioned I have not disconnected the blade clutch and transmission pulley or removed the engine in order to remove the crankshaft from the crankcase. I think I am correct in thinking that the upper bearing depends on oil being pumped up to the top of the engine for lubrication, while the lower bearing is immersed in oil due to the oil laying on top of it in the bottom of the crankcase
Not to confuse things but here are a few photos of an old crankshaft that I think is fro a Honda with the same type of damage to the crankshaftIMG_6679.jpegIMG_6680.jpeg
 

sgkent

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I was taught in machine work that the harder surface wears when combined with a softer surface when contamination is present. The expression was I think, "The softer material takes the charge and the harder material wears." People want to argue that all the time but think about it. Take a stick of butter out of the fridge, throw some glass shards, sand, woods splinters on it and press them into the butter. Rub it on something harder and see how much it scratches. The butter and contamination embedded in it don't wear much. The aluminum is soft enough that sand and debris is embedding in it. The contamination then wears the crankshaft.
 

slomo

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Who put sand in the oil sump? You have more issues than one crank bearing surface.

Look at all that grit inside on the parts.......... WOW!!! That is a filthy engine.
 

Cfs

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Thank ms to you all for your input. I was hoping that given the good condition of the piston & rings and the cylinder, I would be able to replace the broken rod and be back in business. Then I noticed the scoring on the crankshaft from and lid. I knew I should get input and advice looks like it’s destined to go to the recycling center
 

StarTech

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If it was me I would stick a fork in it and call it done. New to the equipment engine is needed.
 

RevB

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Image 6678 says Nope. The only way to save that would be clean it up, oxy/acetylene metal spray process to build it up and turn it in a lathe back to specified diameter. Not cheap.
 

nhackl22

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Cfs,
Wondering about where you're located and if you still have this engine? I just picked up an identical jx75 built in 2004 that I'm working on with my son. Still troubleshooting, but it sure looks like the piston rings are shot. Hoping to borrow a borescope from my neighbor later today or tomorrow to check out the piston and cylinder. I see that rings aren't too expensive so may go that route if everything else looks good.
If you're open to it I'd consider buying your good piston and rings (plus maybe a few other things) or if we live close I'd entertain selling the mower we have. Maybe one of us can make 2 broken engines into one!
Thanks!
 

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hlw49

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If you know a good machinist, he may be able to turn the crank and put a bushing in the top main bearing as long as the area where the seal rides on the crank is smaller than the bearing area.
 

Auto Doc's

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Hello hlw49,

The first challenge is finding an old school machinist that even knows what they are asking to be done. Second would be one who can actually do this. Third would be the cost of having such work done.

The old machine shops of "we can repair anything" have faded off terribly in recent years.

I came from the "shim the bearing inserts days" when shim stock was still being sold to many shops. That stuff is just not available these days.

Even dressing the bore a connecting rod by the machine shop has been next to impossible in my area.

Not too long ago, they used to actually surface weld and turn crank journals to stock specifications, but the practice has become way too expensive.
 
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