Rebuild the engine with performance parts, including turbochargers, aluminum engine blocks and valve heads and a racing fuel delivery system. The parts you will need, and the parts you are allowed to use, will vary based upon the class of tractor you are building, according to Engine Builder magazine. Don't forget about the smaller, constituent parts of the high-performance engine, such as gaskets, hoses and engine lubricants that can handle the additional horsepower and heat your pulling tractor's engine will produce.
Also, Locking the transaxle might be a good idea because on offroading/mudding mowers you are less likely to get stuck with a locked transaxle. Not sure if it would be a good idea but somebody on the forum will say whether to lock the transaxle or not.
These are the rules for the modified garden tractor's whitch seams to be the class you would be building,i hope this will help you out some!!!:thumbsup:
Modified Garden Tractor Rules
1. Contestant must be at least 12 years of age with parents or guardian signature on consent form.
2. Contest open to garden tractors with rubber tires. No mowing decks, tire chains, tire studs or four wheel drive tractors allowed. Atv tires, cut tire, and c-peck tires are allowed in these classes, but no dual wheels.
3. No portion of any tractor may exceed 6 1/2 feet in length from the center of the rear axle to furthest point forward. No portion of tractor can exceed 5 feet wide. Pull chain must not touch any part of wheelie bars. 6 inches must be left open around hitch point for ease of hooking.
4. Rims are limited to 12 inches in diameter. Tire size
26 x 12.00 x 12 max size 5. Draw bars must be stationary in all directions and 13 inches maximum from the top of hitching device to ground (Super Modified classes, see rule #18). Draw bar length cannot be less than 6 inches from the point of hook to the center of rear axle.
6. All tractors must have a safety device to prevent turnovers. This device may have wheels at least 3/4 inches wide and 5 inches or larger diameter, or skid pads of 6 square inches of area. These devices must be no less than 5 inches behind the rear of the tires, and may not be more than 5 inches above ground level. One is required on each side of the tractor and must be strong enough to support the weight of the tractor.
7. All exhaust must discharge vertically upward and must be securely attached. Exhaust pipe must extend a maximum of 12 inches above bend of the pipe.
8. Fuel must be gasoline or alcohol. No nitro, nitrous oxide or oxygen allowed.
9. All weights must be securely attached to the tractor. If weight(s) is (are) lost while pulling, pull will stop and pull will be measured to the point where the weight(s) was (were) lost.
10. No auto engines!!! One or two cylinder engines are defined as having air-cooled cylinders, four cycle, cast iron or aluminum stock casting with a flat head, 18 horsepower or less. Motorcycle engines are limited to a maximum casting size of 1400 cc. No auto engines!!
11. Clutches and open drive train components (belt and/or chains) must be covered with a shield of 16 gauge steel minimum, or aluminum equivalent to 14 gauge.
12. All tractors must be equipped with brakes in good working condition.
13. Throttles must be of a dead-man type (Return to the closed position when foot or hand is removed)
14. All tractors equipped with electric starters must not be able to start in gear.
15. All tractors must have fenders on each side to protect driver from the tires. Hoods are mandatory!!
16. Tractors must have an ignition kill switch in working order, mounted on the rear of the tractor and within 6 inches of the center of the tractor with a 2 inch pull ring.
I7. If any of the sled or tractor goes on the white line, the pull is stopped! Failure to stop will result in disqualification!! The pull will be measured to the point of where the sled or tractor was on the white line.
18. Draw bar height for Super Modified classes will less than or equal to 15 inches.
