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FH601V-BS06 Carburetor

#1

T

tmaslar

The latest P/N for the replacement carburetor on the FH601V-BS06 engine is 15003-7020. It is no longer available. Are any of the other currently available carburetors compatible with the FH601V-BS06 engine? Possibly with modification? Any other possible solution?


#2

T

txmowman

tmaslar said:
The latest P/N for the replacement carburetor on the FH601V-BS06 engine is 15003-7020. It is no longer available. Are any of the other currently available carburetors compatible with the FH601V-BS06 engine? Possibly with modification? Any other possible solution?
Click to expand...
You would need to find a similar type that is still available. Then go through the parts list to see what the actual difference is, i.e., jetting may be the the only difference. This is easily switchable.


#3

T

txmowman

Other options would be to look for an FH641V, 680V or 721V with the same externally vented carburetor. Lastly, switch to a newer internally vented carb. This would require also replacing the wire harness for the fuel solenoid. (Easy)


#4

T

tmaslar

Thank You txmowman!

Do you have a suggestion of which part number specifically would be a good candidate? For example these Chinese knockoffs are all over the place.

www.ebay.com

CARBURETOR Fit For KAWASAKI 15003-7041 15003-7077 FH601V Engine Mower Carb | eBay

NEW CARBURETOR For KAWASAKI 15003-7041 15003-7077 FH601V Engine’s. Kawasaki FH601V-AS14 - Kawasaki FH601V 4-Cycle Engine CARBURETOR. Kawasaki FH601V-AS17 - Kawasaki FH601V 4-Cycle Engine CARBURETOR. Kawasaki FH601V-AS18 - Kawasaki FH601V 4-Cycle Engine CARBURETOR.
www.ebay.com

They look to be the same. Maybe only require a jet change to make them compatible?


#5

T

txmowman

Sorry, I don't have a suggestion off the top of my head. But since this is obviously and older mower and if your pay check doesn't depend on this mower, you could try a China carb. They are less money and typically perform accordingly. Good luck.


#6

S

slomo

What's wrong with your OEM carb? I would boil clean it and try it out.



#7

B

bertsmobile1

Remember it is a carburettor
and any carburettor can be replaced with any other carburettor
Because mower carburettors do not have a wide range of jets available best to get one for an engine of roughly the same capacity .
After that it is simply a mater of bending wires to hook them up followed by adjusting the governed speeds


#8

StarTech

StarTech

Even if the choke or throttle shaft thru holes are severely egg shaped the carburetor can still be repair especially considering the OEM carburetors are over $400 retail. The last JD Kawasaki mounted FX850V-BS13 carburetor I did would have cost the customer over $600 which I instead installed a bushing and saved the customer over $450 when the choke shaft wore through taking out the thru hole.


#9

T

tmaslar

The main thing is that the carb continues to leak fuel when stopped. I did replace the float and float valve last season. It did not fix the problem. I suspect the fuel shutoff solenoid may be defective or possibly a dirty solenoid seat? This season I have begun to get a wondering idle.


#10

T

txmowman

StarTech said:
Even if the choke or throttle shaft thru holes are severely egg shaped the carburetor can still be repair especially considering the OEM carburetors are over $400 retail. The last JD Kawasaki mounted FX850V-BS13 carburetor I did would have cost the customer over $600 which I instead installed a bushing and saved the customer over $450 when the choke shaft wore through taking out the
Click to expand...

tmaslar said:
The main thing is that the carb continues to leak fuel when stopped. I did replace the float and float valve last season. It did not fix the problem. I suspect the fuel shutoff solenoid may be defective or possibly a dirty solenoid seat? This season I have begun to get a wondering idle.
Click to expand...
The solenoid would have no effect. All the solenoid does is prevent fuel from being drawn through the emulsion tube which helps to prevent afterfire when the engine is stopped. When replacing a float valve, it is best to clean the seat with a cotton swab and very mild abrasive, such as toothpaste.


#11

StarTech

StarTech

Float needle seat may need polishing or recut. Takes a six counter sink of the angle to cut the seat and of course the float hinge would need bending to compensate for the increase needle seat depth. Polishing is something a DIYer can do but not the seat cutting. And of course a new carburetor body is one of last resort. Too Kawasaki does not provide replacement needle seats.

All it take is a hairline scratch to cause a leak.


#12

T

tmaslar

So...do you believe that the bowl continuing to fill and overflow after shutdown is due to the float valve still not sealing after the float is up all the way and the float valve not sealing on the seat? If so. I will take it apart and check it with a magnifier and see if there is any dirt or scratches on the seat.


#13

T

txmowman

tmaslar said:
So...do you believe that the bowl continuing to fill and overflow after shutdown is due to the float valve still not sealing after the float is up all the way and the float valve not sealing on the seat? If so. I will take it apart and check it with a magnifier and see if there is any dirt or scratches on the seat.
Click to expand...
Without a doubt. Either a holed or cracked float, taking on fuel, or the float sticking.


#14

T

tmaslar

Thank you! I will take it apart and check as soon as I get new gaskets for reassembly.


#15

sgkent

sgkent

have you tried getting rebuild parts?


#16

B

bertsmobile1

tmaslar said:
Thank you! I will take it apart and check as soon as I get new gaskets for reassembly.
Click to expand...
I use a pencil brush on a Dremel tool to clean the bottom of the seat
If that does not work then I get a drill marginally bigger than the hole in the seat and with the seat mounted in the drill press recut the hole
This has to be done in a drill press because the hole has to be dead square or the needle can not make a seal
Having done this the float will need to be adjusted
If this is sounding too difficult then any one of a number of specialist carb repair workshops can do it for you , should cost about 1 hour of their labour rate
The float needs to hold 7 to 10 psi fuel pressure


#17

T

tmaslar

sgkent said:
have you tried getting rebuild parts?
Click to expand...
Yes,
Some are still available. The rebuild kit is not.


#18

T

tmaslar

bertsmobile1 said:
I use a pencil brush on a Dremel tool to clean the bottom of the seat
If that does not work then I get a drill marginally bigger than the hole in the seat and with the seat mounted in the drill press recut the hole
This has to be done in a drill press because the hole has to be dead square or the needle can not make a seal
Having done this the float will need to be adjusted
If this is sounding too difficult then any one of a number of specialist carb repair workshops can do it for you , should cost about 1 hour of their labour rate
The float needs to hold 7 to 10 psi fuel pressure
Click to expand...
Thank you! I'll post when I get it apart and inspect the float, valve and seat.


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