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I what to remove my carburetor to bring to a local lawnmower dealer to have my carburetor professional soaked and cleaned. I am concerned about me being able to remove this carburetor because of the uninstall instructions I read on page 3-25 of the service manual linked to the attachment below. The appears to me from reading that page that there are certain parts that have to be marked back to their original marking before you are able to remove the carburetor, and may be a little to much for me to handle, since I have never removed a carburetor before. The photo of my carburetor can be found on page 3-22 as it is the picture on the top of that page. Below you will find a attachment to the service manual. The Kawasaki engine on my Gravely lawnmower is the FH580V.

Any helpful information would be deeply appreciated. Thanks!

Just make a note of all the parts or take some photos that way you shouldn't go wrong, if you do come here am sure there be someone to help you..!

Use finger nail polish to Colorcode what parts go together. And take pics of every step.

I am not sure what parts need to be removed to get the carburetor out.

This is what the service manual says about the uninstall process.

Carburetor Disassembly/Assembly-FH541V,
FH580V

紐efer to the illustration for disassembly and assembly. 謬here are several passage plugs (Ball plugs) in the carburetor
body. Do not remove them. 稗efore disassembly, mark the out side of choke valve and
throttle valves for assembling them. 紐eplace the pilot screw with a new one if necessary in
accordance with the following procedure.

○Carefully mark the position of the pilot screw limiter on
the carburetor body so that it can be installed and set to
its original position later.
○Remove the limiter. Be careful not to turn the pilot screw
at this point.
○Turn the pilot screw clockwise and count the number of
turns until screw is gently seated in the pilot passage.
Record the number of turns needed to close the screw.
○Turn out the pilot screw to replace it with a new one.
○Install the new pilot screw until the screw is gently
seated. Then open the screw the same number of turns
as recorded prior to removal.
○Align the limiter with the mark on the carburetor body to
install, taking care not to turn the pilot screw. 肘nstall the choke valve and throttle valve on the shaft as
the outside mark of them facing outside. 疋rive the float pin into the carburetor body. The big diameter
side of the float pin must face the choke value side. 柊ssemble carburetor parts with recommended tightening
torque (see Exploded View).

1. Limiter
2. Pilot Screw
3. Spring
4. Spacer
5. Low Idle Speed Screw
6. Spring
7. Screws
8. Throttle Valve
9. Throttle Shaft
10. Dust Seal
11. Choke Valve
12. Choke Shaft
13. Dust Seal
14. Solenoid Valve (Electric Starter Model)
15. Gasket
16. Float Bowl
17. Gasket
18. Float Pin
19. Float
20. Main Jet
21. Main Nozzle
22. Float Valve
23. Gasket
24. Screw (Other than Solenoid Valve Type)



Here is an attached picture of what I am seeing.

Take the fuel line off. Disconnect the green wire skid the carb off the studs and bring to the shop.

Carscw said:

Take the fuel line off. Disconnect the green wire skid the carb off the studs and bring to the shop.

Click to expand...

Yep and they will clean it check it tell you you need some more parts then reassemble to factory standard settings so you should be able to pop it back on & the mower will fire up right off although it might need a few tweeks to be 100%

I think there is more to it, then just removing the hose line.


I found this below on page 3-21 of the service manual:



Carburetor Removal:

Remove:
Air Cleaner and Related Parts (see Air Cleaner Body)
Turn the fuel shut off valve to the OFF position.
Drain the carburetor.
Disconnect the fuel tube at the fuel inlet joint [A] of the carburetor.
For Electric Starter model, disconnect the solenoid valve
lead terminal and remove the ground terminal.
Unhook the throttle link spring at the throttle shaft lever
top end [C] with a long nose plier.
Unhook the throttle [D] and choke link rods [E] at the top
ends of their arms while pulling off the carburetor.

Bring the mower to a shop. You are in over your head.

Carscw said:

Bring the mower to a shop. You are in over your head.

Click to expand...

Bringing the mower to the shop is option that will cost me grand or more before they even look at the mower. I would need to buy and install a trailer hitch for my car, along with having to also buy a trailer to transport the 900lb ZTR mower to the shop.

EngineMan said:

Just follow the directions, it can't be more simple then that, or find someone who can take it off for you.

Click to expand...

I appears that it will come off if I remover what the parts the instructions says to remove. However, in order to get enough room to remove those parts, I will need to remove the top cover which in my photo posted.

I will try to get to it, over the weekend, and post back.

Take the 2 bolts or nuts off that hold it in place.
Take fuel line off. Pull carb off turn it on its side and slide the linkage out off the holes.
Oh and unplug wire going to the bottom.

Carscw said:

Take the 2 bolts or nuts off that hold it in place.
Take fuel line off. Pull carb off turn it on its side and slide the linkage out off the holes.
Oh and unplug wire going to the bottom.

Click to expand...

It will almost slide off, but the choke link rod is the problem. It is bending quite a bit, and I don't want to force it and brake something. I may be having a girl that works with my wife's husband come over on Tuesday to help me. He has a motorcycle and does his owe engine maintenance. I do have 2 other questions I would like answer if you could.

1.) How does that wire unplug from the Solenoid Valve? (I tried to pry it apart with a flat head screwdriver, but it would not disconnect)

2.) What is the absolute best type of cleaner to use to clean the carburetor?

The solenoid plug is strait, so it pulls off in the direction the wires go in.
he plastic shrinks with age & heat and the pins corrode with age & water so if it has not been off for a long while it might put up a fight, Just do not pull the wires.
Best thing for the carb is an ultrasonic cleaner.
Other than that any dipping solution will work , just read & follow the instructins as some require all non metalics to be removed before you dip them.
When you take the bits out pop them into boiling water to rinse off, leave them in there for a few minutes till they ar hot so when you lift them out they will dry off very quickly.
Spray clean dry parts with your favourite WD 40 type of goo then assemble when you are ready in a clean dust free place ( sent you wife to the movies, she will never know you used the kitchen bench )

From my unreliable memory, one side of the choke lever has a Z bend snd the other a 90 deg and plastic retainer, if so pop that side out first.
Bending the wire is not a problem, you can always bend it back.
Snaping off a plastic lever is a problem & requires a full ( expensive ) carb rebuild.

Thanks everyone for the carburetor help. As it turns out wire harness for the plug on the Solenoid Valve for my (Electric Starter Model) had a broken ground wire. The wire and harness replacement was $5 and solved that problem. There appeared to be some water in my carburetor, but up cleaned up fine.

Now some more problems. When I started up the Lawnmower there was no fuel coming from the right side tank, and after closely inspecting inside the tank the brass fitting was detached from the fuel line tubing so now I had another problem to deal with. After draining the tank and fishing out the brass fitting, I from inside the tank I removed the Tank Elbow fitting located on the side of the tank along with the orange colored Grommet, and removed the tubing line from the tank. With all this said, I have a few questions below as I am not sure if #19 below named the Tank Elbow fitting is the right part. Here are questions below:

1.) Does #19 (Fitting, Tank elbow .31 hose) mean that the in the tank fuel tubing is connected one end, along with a brass fitting attached to the other end of the tubing?

2.) If #19 is what I need to order, is the other side included, because the picture does not ever show the Fitting, Tank elbow .31 hose on the left side tank?

https://www.gravelypartsdirect.com/...ech._Lift_Deck/Fuel_Tanks_And_Hoses/2140/5523