Sorry for being slow guys, but I've been very busy, and I'm old & broken down as any you'll find . I didn't get to work on it today at all, but we'll get there . I checked all but one safety switch (I think), and all have checked good so far, with no change in problem .PTO is the manual lever engagement, and the switch checked good . The only one I think I lack is the brake switch . I've checked (with multimeter) PTO, parking brake, reverse switch, and seat switch . Still have got the brake switch to check, is there another one somewhere ? I did notice the seat utilized several green wires that I presume are grounds, so I'm guessing if bad it could cause loss of a ground . The fuel solenoid works with a solid click, but the starter solenoid shows 2 hot wires instead of 1 being a ground, same as hour meter & headlights . I sincerely appreciate all the help, and maybe this rings a bell with someone else to comment . Thanks Again !
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Electrical Issues LX42KH
- Thread starter RolandB
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Export threadbertsmobile1
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It is your mower & your grass, we got all the time in the world .
Take a photo of the solenoid
I can almost be certain that some one has wired it wrong.
At the base should be an orange + white wire that shows battery voltage when the key is in the start position and nothing with the key in any other position
The other wire should be black or green and be always ground .
Pretty sure it has been connected to one of the large terminals at the top & not the mounting bolt
Take a photo of the solenoid
I can almost be certain that some one has wired it wrong.
At the base should be an orange + white wire that shows battery voltage when the key is in the start position and nothing with the key in any other position
The other wire should be black or green and be always ground .
Pretty sure it has been connected to one of the large terminals at the top & not the mounting bolt
bertsmobile1
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The wiring at the solenoid
It has to be wrong if both of the wires at the BASE show power when disconnected
It has to be wrong if both of the wires at the BASE show power when disconnected
OK, I assure you it's wired exactly the same as the one it replaced, but it may need to be reversed for whatever . That's a fairly easy check, so I'll try that . Remember, headlights & hour meter also show both leads positive . I was truly hoping that it would be a safety switch, especially since some of them were harder than they should have been to access . Engineers don't care what mechanics and techs have to deal with . The seat switch and brake switch both had lots of ground wires (green) running to them, and I figured it was one or the other but that didn't hold up . I look back at the first sign of trouble I noticed, a blown 25 amp fuse, although it ran fine until I shut it down . Now was the lights or hour meter working, I don't know, it was daylight & I had no reason to check either . After replacing the blown fuse it cranked like new, but after that session it would not restart & fuse wasn't blown . A 25 amp fuse tells me there was a pretty solid ground out at some point . It's like the problem was taking on a life of it's own, or at least progressing/changing thru the issue . Thanks for the assistance, I do appreciate it .The wiring at the solenoid
It has to be wrong if both of the wires at the BASE show power when disconnected
bertsmobile1
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In the first post you said the fuse blew
This is very often caused by bad grounds & corrosion
This was the first problem that is probably still there
They you decided to replace the starter solenoid at which time I am assuming you wired it incorrectly
The solenoid should be open on the orange / white wire and ground on the green wire
That green is a common ground so if it shows power then some how you have connected a ground wire to power.
Even worse is that common ground also goes to the magneto kill wire and if the magnet was energised through the kill wire then it will be fried .
There is a truism than a new problem is generally caused by the last thing you did .
The key switch could be bad and that could have blown the fuse in the first place
But before I give any instructions I need to know the switch on your mower is the same as the one in the wiring diagram
IT should have 7 wires going into the plug connected to the terminals as follows and the switch should have tiny letters cast into it
However these switches are near impossible to remove without breaking the tangs off .
Red/ black , power in from fuse to B
Green = common ground to G
Green or black = also ground to L
Yellow = magneto kill wire to M ( should show nothing & gets connected to G to stop the engine )
Orange = starter to S , should show nothing till the key is in the start position then it goes to battery voltage
Purple = reverse wire to A2 again nothing till the MIR is activated when it should go to ground
Red = switched power to A1 shows battery voltage when switch is on .
When you start the mower power goes from the red/black wire on B to the Orange wire on S then down to the PTO switch where it changes colour to Orange / black and from there to the brake switch where it changes colour to Orange / white and goes to the starter solenoid where it completes the circuit with the green ground wire and causes the solenoid to trip & energise the starter motor .
It is a very simple circuit
But I can not stress enough that we need photos to ensure what is on your mower is the same as what is in the book
IT is a very simple circuit
This is very often caused by bad grounds & corrosion
This was the first problem that is probably still there
They you decided to replace the starter solenoid at which time I am assuming you wired it incorrectly
The solenoid should be open on the orange / white wire and ground on the green wire
That green is a common ground so if it shows power then some how you have connected a ground wire to power.
Even worse is that common ground also goes to the magneto kill wire and if the magnet was energised through the kill wire then it will be fried .
There is a truism than a new problem is generally caused by the last thing you did .
The key switch could be bad and that could have blown the fuse in the first place
But before I give any instructions I need to know the switch on your mower is the same as the one in the wiring diagram
IT should have 7 wires going into the plug connected to the terminals as follows and the switch should have tiny letters cast into it
However these switches are near impossible to remove without breaking the tangs off .
Red/ black , power in from fuse to B
Green = common ground to G
Green or black = also ground to L
Yellow = magneto kill wire to M ( should show nothing & gets connected to G to stop the engine )
Orange = starter to S , should show nothing till the key is in the start position then it goes to battery voltage
Purple = reverse wire to A2 again nothing till the MIR is activated when it should go to ground
Red = switched power to A1 shows battery voltage when switch is on .
When you start the mower power goes from the red/black wire on B to the Orange wire on S then down to the PTO switch where it changes colour to Orange / black and from there to the brake switch where it changes colour to Orange / white and goes to the starter solenoid where it completes the circuit with the green ground wire and causes the solenoid to trip & energise the starter motor .
It is a very simple circuit
But I can not stress enough that we need photos to ensure what is on your mower is the same as what is in the book
IT is a very simple circuit
I've been out of pocket guyz, I broke my hip on Friday the 13th of course . I'm getting a little better each day, unless I over do it . All safety switches have been bench tested, and I managed to get the brake switch reinstalled . I also tried switching the small wires on the solenoid . Problem has not changed . I'm hating to take to a dealer but not sure what else to do . Where we bought the mower has some bad online service reviews, and I know one of the guys that was reporting . My other option is an established sports outlet that has just recently added Cub Cadet to their products . I've dealt with them on other things and they did good . I just keep imagining paying some kid $150 an hour to trouble shoot my problem, that could be a disaster . IDK anymore .