Early Style Auto-Choke for B&S 190cc Engine?

D@ve

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the governor sits at wide open when off, and when the engine starts, centrifugal force acts on the flyweights on the governor gear inside the engine, which in turn moves the governor arm and throttle to the governed RPM, generally about 3200 or 3400 rpm. depends on the application. all of those engines like that (that i've seen) sit at WOT when not running.

Thanks for the clarification sir. I will clean out the various organics around the linkage and lube them up to see if that doesn't help the situation.
 

slomo

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Thanks for the clarification sir. I will clean out the various organics around the linkage and lube them up to see if that doesn't help the situation.
Do not lube anything on a carb. Oil attracts dirt, grit, grass and the like. Take a paint brush. Dust off the carb, air filter and housing and all other areas after mowing. DIRT is the #1 killer in small engines.

slomo
 

slomo

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Like others have said, that came with a primer. You are missing the air filter too, just saying. The air filter housing has the primer in it. To verify the primer is working proper, remove air filter. Push the primer. You should see a small squirt of fuel jumping up vertically from the bottom center of the carb throat. If you see nothing, primer is not working. Like stated before, might take 2 gaskets to fix your warped over torqued housing. Those screws are not lug nuts. Most people use impact guns on those tiny screws. All you need is your weak hand and open fingers holding a ratchet for proper torque.

slomo
 

D@ve

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Like others have said, that came with a primer. You are missing the air filter too, just saying. The air filter housing has the primer in it. To verify the primer is working proper, remove air filter. Push the primer. You should see a small squirt of fuel jumping up vertically from the bottom center of the carb throat. If you see nothing, primer is not working. Like stated before, might take 2 gaskets to fix your warped over torqued housing. Those screws are not lug nuts. Most people use impact guns on those tiny screws. All you need is your weak hand and open fingers holding a ratchet for proper torque.

slomo
I have the airbox with primer and the air filter. I removed them to sort this out. I'll definitely test out the primer before reassembling everything. Thanks for the info!
 

heamicdan

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I’ve seen it a couple of times. Only when a DIY guy would replace the carb with one that is not made for that particular engine, but it did have a throttle. If you have a carb with no choke or throttle I would really like to see it, as that would go against everything I know about and taught my students over the last 50 years. There is one exception, that is what was called a carb on the very old “hit and miss” engines. Heamicdan, would you please post some pictures so we all can learn something today?
I’ve seen it a couple of times. Only when a DIY guy would replace the carb with one that is not made for that particular engine, but it did have a throttle. If you have a carb with no choke or throttle I would really like to see it, as that would go against everything I know about and taught my students over the last 50 years. There is one exception, that is what was called a carb on the very old “hit and miss” engines. Heamicdan, would you please post some pictures so we all can learn something today?
keeps telling me file is too large ---anyway i have the shaft for air vane to hook to-which would go to thermostat but neither was ever on this mower and it ran perfect for years
 

Richie F

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The Briggs serial number should be on the fan blower housing, either on a bent tab or on the housing in another location.
 

SydSara1996

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Wow, thanks for all the responses! As a newb to this forum I was hoping for 1 or 2 responses, especially on what I thought was a pretty obscure issue. In regards to some of your answers, my mower does have a primer bulb, which unfortunately seems to have little effect during cold starts, although I'll give that more attention. I do know that a shot of starter fluid into the carb caused it to fire right up. Once it's warm it starts on the first or second pull. I just don't understand why the linkage to the butterfly valve currently causes it to be fully open when cold. The mower has no manual throttle or choke controls. Seems like it should either be a manual operation or controlled be a thermostat. Thanks again.
Just a little experienced advice. Keep starting fluid [ether] away from all small engines. It's a bomb in a can. You can destroy that little engine in a split second. Actually ALL gas engines......spark ignited engines. The only safe usage of ether is diesel engines. I know it mentions gas engines on the label, but until you've seen the entire oil pan blown off a commercial truck's gas engine, like I have, you'll never use it again. The safest thing to use is carb & choke cleaner spray or brake kleen spray. Just make sure it's not the "non-flammable" version {;-)
 

Scrubcadet10

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The non flammable won't ignite via spark in the engine... or at least that's been my experience after accidentally buying the non flammable. i've just started using the house brand O'rielly's or Advance auto.
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Hammermechanicman

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I have used starting fluid, ether, for 40 years working on small engines. Probably used 20 to 30 cans of it. Never blown one up or seized one. The one place i won't use it is a diesel engine. If somebody put enough in a truck engine to blow the oil pan off i wouldn't let them work on a lawnmower. I did remove a lot of arm hair with starting fluid in my 63 Galaxie in high school.
 
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