Thank Bert, I'll try that. It's liquid cooled so you know what a pain that is just to get to the flywheel. I suppose I could remove the PTO and pulley and push up on the bottom shaft and accomplish the same thing.
Dumping oil from the bottom seal
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Sorry it's taken so long to get to this. No up and down play on the crankshaft so I just bit the bullet and went ahead and pulled the engine and split the case. The crankshaft was badly scored and the opening on the sump was also worn. Not sure how those got out of alignment because the engine ran very smoothly. Pics attached. This is my mower and I really like it. Any reason not to find a reasonably priced used crank and sump and fix it?
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cpurvis
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I'm not sure I see the damage to the sump that you describe. It looks to me like there are remnants of a seal that someone has tried to remove by prying.
I think, but not sure, that a good machine shop can turn your crankshaft and install a sleeve to match the original O.D.
This may be more expensive than buying the sump and crank, though. If you go that route, you probably ought to get the rod as well.
I think, but not sure, that a good machine shop can turn your crankshaft and install a sleeve to match the original O.D.
This may be more expensive than buying the sump and crank, though. If you go that route, you probably ought to get the rod as well.
bertsmobile1
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Yep that bearing surface is toast and the crank does not look much better.
Easy way will be new crank & sump.
Stick the old ones on Craigs list when you are finised there is always some semi- retired machinist who will delight in cleaning up the crank and bushing the sump.
If you have a mate who is a machinist that you pay with booze then go that way but the set up cost for a commercial machinist will be more than the cost of replacements.
A new rod is a good idea but will greatly increase the cost as it will involve new rings and head gasket.
Take the old ones with you whev you go to oick up the replacements to ensure they are in fact the same
Easy way will be new crank & sump.
Stick the old ones on Craigs list when you are finised there is always some semi- retired machinist who will delight in cleaning up the crank and bushing the sump.
If you have a mate who is a machinist that you pay with booze then go that way but the set up cost for a commercial machinist will be more than the cost of replacements.
A new rod is a good idea but will greatly increase the cost as it will involve new rings and head gasket.
Take the old ones with you whev you go to oick up the replacements to ensure they are in fact the same
Sorry, been meaning to update. I replaced the crank and sump with good used parts. I haven't been able to run it for an extended time but for the few minutes I have had it running it's smooth as silk.
Side note, I don't know why I always try to convince myself that I can remove a crankshaft from a twin cylinder engine without removing one of the pistons but you can get it sooo close that I can't help but spend a half hour trying to wiggle and jiggle it just right and as usual....it never works. A piston has to come out. I wish I could get that through my thick head.
Side note, I don't know why I always try to convince myself that I can remove a crankshaft from a twin cylinder engine without removing one of the pistons but you can get it sooo close that I can't help but spend a half hour trying to wiggle and jiggle it just right and as usual....it never works. A piston has to come out. I wish I could get that through my thick head.