just follow the manual. The included link offers free downloads of the owner's and service manual as well as the parts catalog. Very nice. Toro | TimeCutter SS5000 - Zero Turn Lawn Mowers Scroll down a bit and click on "manuals".
just follow the manual. The included link offers free downloads of the owner's and service manual as well as the parts catalog. Very nice. Toro | TimeCutter SS5000 - Zero Turn Lawn Mowers Scroll down a bit and click on "manuals".
There is a bracket that holds the clutch.
It has two bolts. Remove one of them and just loosen the other. Now you can move it so you can get the belt on. I start on the right side. It's kinda tricky how the belt goes. A lot easier if you remove the idler pulley spring.
If you want I can take a picture of my belt. So you can see how it routes.
There is a bracket that holds the clutch.
It has two bolts. Remove one of them and just loosen the other. Now you can move it so you can get the belt on. I start on the right side. It's kinda tricky how the belt goes. A lot easier if you remove the idler pulley spring.
If you want I can take a picture of my belt. So you can see how it routes.
I can see it is a pain in the *****,,,but my question should have been " What is the easiest way to position the mower to get to the belt..?"
Do I need to remove the tires.?
THANKS FOR THE INFO. I can see it is a pain in the *****,,,but my question should have been " What is the easiest way to position the mower to get to the belt..?" Do I need to remove the tires.?
I would add, get a strong buddy and his favorite brew to help you. That extra hand will make the job a lot easier. In the shop we always double up on this job, saves fingers and arguments with the unit about engineers.
I would add, get a strong buddy and his favorite brew to help you. That extra hand will make the job a lot easier. In the shop we always double up on this job, saves fingers and arguments with the unit about engineers.
Every time put this belt on I cuss.
Saying I would like to meet the guy that designed this.
The OEM belt is cogged and last me around 200 hours. And always breaks when I am on a hill.
This last time I went with a Kevlar V belt. Seams to hold up longer.
One problem I had was the bracket in the rear that the drives bolt to. Bent and made the belt rub.
Every time put this belt on I cuss.
Saying I would like to meet the guy that designed this.
The OEM belt is cogged and last me around 200 hours. And always breaks when I am on a hill.
This last time I went with a Kevlar V belt. Seams to hold up longer.
One problem I had was the bracket in the rear that the drives bolt to. Bent and made the belt rub.
My drive belt came off track, used manual and replaced the drive belt. However, when I try to operate, the belt keeps coming off. What am I missing? Anyone know what else to check?
A few things will do this.
1) incorrectly routed belt
2) insifficient tension on the belt
3) tension arm bush/bearing not free enough
4) debris wedged into the V of one of the pulleys
5) loose bent or broken mountings on the PTO pulley or either drives
6) bad bearing in the tension idler pulley
7) damage to the flange of one of the pulleys
