I have an old craftsman lawn tractor that I bought used. I can't identify the model number because the plate was removed from under the seat. Tried to remove a seized rear wheel and bent it badly. Looking forward, once I get it off I'll need a replacement wheel. It looks to me the wheel is driven by 2 flats on the axle rather than a key. Is there such an animal and where could I find a wheel?
Drive axle type
- Thread starter Just Jeff
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Really need to id the transaxle used as Craftsman mower are made by both AYP (Husqvarna) and MTD. I have seen both with the double "D" axles.
Depending how badly the rim is stuck on the axle, you might have to remove the transaxle, disassemble it, and use a hydraulic press to get axle out of the rim. But first try some 2 cycle fuel mix if the rim will move any at all on the axle as it can penetrate better than WD40 as the WD40 just won't soak thru the rust and dirt.
Here I experimenting with a new home brew penetrating fluid that seems the work a lot better than the WD40 or other commercial penetrating fluids that I have tried in the past. The problem with it is that it keeps separating so I shake it up before use. At least it is cheap to make up. Another drawback is that I got to find myself one of those pump sprayers that can handle the mixture.
Depending how badly the rim is stuck on the axle, you might have to remove the transaxle, disassemble it, and use a hydraulic press to get axle out of the rim. But first try some 2 cycle fuel mix if the rim will move any at all on the axle as it can penetrate better than WD40 as the WD40 just won't soak thru the rust and dirt.
Here I experimenting with a new home brew penetrating fluid that seems the work a lot better than the WD40 or other commercial penetrating fluids that I have tried in the past. The problem with it is that it keeps separating so I shake it up before use. At least it is cheap to make up. Another drawback is that I got to find myself one of those pump sprayers that can handle the mixture.
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bertsmobile1
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I put a pair of scissor jacks between the body of the mower & the wheel
they are done up till there is no play in the axel
Then I use an air hammer against a allen headed cap screw in the bolt hole.
You push very hard against the air hammer so it just vibrates
eventually the wheel will move enough for the jacks to slide out a bit
When that happens you tighten then up again & repeat & repeat & repeat
The process is called "Walking Off" and if you search You Tube with that phrase you will see several good videos of the process.
Very important that the end of the air hammer is always in contact with the axel or it will cause the end to mushroom
Lots of heat helps
When they are being a real PIA I spray some penetrating fluid onto the wheel when it has moved about 1/2" & polish the axel section behind the wheel then give it a squirt as well before knocking the wheel back on
That gets the penetrant deep into the wheel
Give it a couple of hours then repeat .
Some wheels have takes a couple of days to get off.
In one extreme case I did remove the transmission from the mower , split the case remove the axel & wheel then pop it in the 40 ton press
they are done up till there is no play in the axel
Then I use an air hammer against a allen headed cap screw in the bolt hole.
You push very hard against the air hammer so it just vibrates
eventually the wheel will move enough for the jacks to slide out a bit
When that happens you tighten then up again & repeat & repeat & repeat
The process is called "Walking Off" and if you search You Tube with that phrase you will see several good videos of the process.
Very important that the end of the air hammer is always in contact with the axel or it will cause the end to mushroom
Lots of heat helps
When they are being a real PIA I spray some penetrating fluid onto the wheel when it has moved about 1/2" & polish the axel section behind the wheel then give it a squirt as well before knocking the wheel back on
That gets the penetrant deep into the wheel
Give it a couple of hours then repeat .
Some wheels have takes a couple of days to get off.
In one extreme case I did remove the transmission from the mower , split the case remove the axel & wheel then pop it in the 40 ton press
Knew I would have to replace the wheel when I bent it trying to pull it. I ended up cutting the wheel off using a chordless sawsall being careful not to cut into the axle. Once I cut through most of the seized hub I knocked it off from the back side. Going to see my local outdoor equipment retailer with pictures of my work. Hopefully he can match me up with a wheel and tire at reasonable cost. If not the search will continue.
I knew I had to replace the wheel after I bent it trying a puller with screw loose and propane heat. Ended up cutting it off with a sawsall being careful not to cut into the axle. Going to see my local retailer for $ on replacement.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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So now you know to grease or better still put some never sieze on the axel every 4 to 5 years
Most mower repair workshops ( Not big box glass front retail shops ) will have dozens of them out back because new wheels are really expensive
Most mower repair workshops ( Not big box glass front retail shops ) will have dozens of them out back because new wheels are really expensive
Thanks. I have anti seize compound and will use it here. I'll also look up local mower repair shops for a used wheel. I'm sure it would save $. Tried to attach pics to help others but the server won't handle it.