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Like Permatex high temp RTV. Just curious. I wouldn't trust it on a car but the mating surfaces its going to be used on are flat. Seems like it would work fine. There isn't a lot of pressure there. I think I'll try it and order some gaskets in case of seepage.

If installed properly on a clean dry surface, you will about bend the cover trying to get it loose from the block. Hondabond is one that you will destroy the valve cover trying to get it loose. Have bent briggs covers more than once.

I would replace gaskets with gaskets. Rtv is great for a thin sealing bead. Not to be used as the only seal.

Mike88se said:

Like Permatex high temp RTV. Just curious. I wouldn't trust it on a car but the mating surfaces its going to be used on are flat. Seems like it would work fine. There isn't a lot of pressure there. I think I'll try it and order some gaskets in case of seepage.

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RTV RED is the best thing for valve covers and exhaust manifolds.

Every race engine builder I know will tell you to use RTV RED and not header or valve cover gaskets.

I even use it on my briggs v twin crankcase cover ( sump cover as some that don't know call it )

I use ultrablack, on a rocker cover or RTV, I know on a kohler magnum that's used on about every mating surface except heads and intake manifold,

I dont use gasket sealant. I replace it with the right gasket. I just use it on automotive stuff. I use the Ultra Copper.

Gaskets should be replaced with gaskets, especially where the gasket sets the side clearances. Briggs, and several of the other engine makers, have eliminated the valve cover gasket, and are nowing using RTV sealant. Either black or grey. If used properly on clean dry surfaces it will glue the parts together, and will take some effort to separate.

If I can buy a gasket that is what I will use. I have used the RTV through the years for valve covers and find it also works just fine. The only thing I don't like about the RTV is it is messy. Now we are only talking about valve covers here right? Because ILENGINE is talking about side clearance?

ILENGINE said:

Gaskets should be replaced with gaskets, especially where the gasket sets the side clearances. Briggs, and several of the other engine makers, have eliminated the valve cover gasket, and are nowing using RTV sealant. Either black or grey. If used properly on clean dry surfaces it will glue the parts together, and will take some effort to separate.

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Yep, the gluing the parts together the mess of removing the RTV when/if I ever need to get to the rockers again is my only concern but scraping old gasket material can be a huge PITA too. And I've read that a lot of car makers are using RTV now.

reynoldston said:

If I can buy a gasket that is what I will use. I have used the RTV through the years for valve covers and find it also works just fine. The only thing I don't like about the RTV is it is messy. Now we are only talking about valve covers here right? Because ILENGINE is talking about side clearance?

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I like gaskets to if I can run down to the parts store and get them. With car engines I can do that. And yes it was valve/rocker covers. No worries about clearance or raising/lowering compression. I don't think I'd use RTV for head gaskets... not on a car anyway. But the last few times I had rocker covers (and oil pans) off a vehicle the gasket material was... silicone

Also we are talking about lawn mowers. I don't work on very many cars or trucks any more but still do when forced into it. When it comes to comes to cars or trucks I find that gaskets and torques are all different then working on a lawn mower. I find the gaskets on cars are designed to work with the bolt torque and not like the old days when you could throw a engine together with a air wrench. Also its nothing to get over 200 thousand miles with a car anymore. I am happy to be getting out of the repair business.

I just called a shop to get a gasket. Guy said we have it it is $20 ok I said I will send my wife. She gets to the shop a guy tells her the owner left and he is the only one that can sell a part come back in a hour. But wait it gets better.
She stops at auto zone to get a brown bottle of gasket tack the dumb azz gives her a tube of ultra black RTV

I usually shy away from taking a job that has an engine oozing with permatex. The only places I ever use it would be on the
Briggs air filter housing gaskets with the primer bulb with the gasket. And of course on engine applications that came from the factory with sealants and no gaskets....

Fish said:

I usually shy away from taking a job that has an engine oozing with permatex. The only places I ever use it would be on the
Briggs air filter housing gaskets with the primer bulb with the gasket. And of course on engine applications that came from the factory with sealants and no gaskets....

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Can i ask why you put it on the briggs air filter housing?

Well, I have replaced all of that new, and still not had it prime like it should......

The briggs quantum engines are bad about warping the primmer plate/air filter base. Clean and be sure that it has a good prime pulse. I always double gasket the primer plate on the quantum engines.

Fish said:

Well, I have replaced all of that new, and still not had it prime like it should......

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Remember this is a sample of one (rider)... the valve cover gasket on the Intek can be used over and over IMO because there is no real oil load reaching the valve area. When adjusting the valves no more than a teaspoon is released. (If this engine had more oil feed , and thus cooling, the head would run cooler) Any way for the last 3 adjustments I have reused the gasket in its compressed state, even with a tear in one upper section.

During the two teadrdowns (engine pushed guide and then ate pushrod) the paper sump gasket was lightly coated with RTV, and remained tight for years until the sump bolts backed out and stood on their heads waiting for me to discover them. Crankcase pressure blew out a piece of gasket when the pan loosened and it has leaked since.

Permatex seems preferred for coating headbolt threads which must be sealed to prevent auto coolant from reaching the head.

Edit. sorry , wasn't aware they made RTV. I was referring to the thick, black stuff you cannot get off your hands.

I just saw a headline for an advertisement on here for custom made gaskets,,how ironic..lol

motoman said:

Remember this is a sample of one (rider)... the valve cover gasket on the Intek can be used over and over IMO because there is no real oil load reaching the valve area. When adjusting the valves no more than a teaspoon is released. (If this engine had more oil feed , and thus cooling, the head would run cooler) Any way for the last 3 adjustments I have reused the gasket in its compressed state, even with a tear in one upper section.

During the two teadrdowns (engine pushed guide and then ate pushrod) the paper sump gasket was lightly coated with RTV, and remained tight for years until the sump bolts backed out and stood on their heads waiting for me to discover them. Crankcase pressure blew out a piece of gasket when the pan loosened and it has leaked since.

Permatex seems preferred for coating headbolt threads which must be sealed to prevent auto coolant from reaching the head.

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I wouldn't hesitate to try reusing a rocker cover gasket but I'd keep a close eye on it til I was reasonable sure it wasn't going to leak. Reusing these gaskets wasn't an option tho... too many pieces. The valve clearances seem good now and there's no leak so I won't have anything to worry about til the next time it needs adjustment. I used Permatex "the right stuff" RTV so I think it should come off pretty easy. Probably no harder to clean off than than old gasket material. That's what I'm hoping anyway I've replaced a few parts on cars where it took hours to get the surfaces clean of old gasket material.